XtremeRanger
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- October 8, 2003
- Messages
- 282
- Reaction score
- 6
- City, State
- Columbus, Ga
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '95 Ranger XLT
~~~WARNING! 35 pics!!!!~~~
Oook...I know I don’t post on here too often, you guys have given me lots of info. I've been doing some upgrades to my girlfriends 2002 here in the last few weeks and this install was the most time consuming. There isn’t much info about this install on here and figured I'd give a lil more insight.
Had lots of problems with this install, but in the end it works.
Details: 2002 with a build date of 8/01.
There is a TSB (02-23-4, 11-25-02) regarding "Engine Controls - DTC P1635 Set after PCM/IC Replacement" says this,
“Article 02-5-8 is being republished in its entirety to update the Service Procedure and to clarify build dates for Explorer.
This article applies to all vehicles listed with the exception of 2002 Explorer. This article applies to 2002 Explorer (SLAP) St. Louis Assembly Plant built before 3/11/2002 and 2002 Explorer (LAP) Louisville Assembly Plant built before 3/4/2002 only.
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit an inoperative or inaccurate speedometer, 4x4 lamp illuminated, and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTCs) P1635 or P1639 present after a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Instrument Cluster replacement. This may be caused by the Vehicle Identification (VID) block that must be programmed when replacing the PCM.
ACTION
As part of the calibration, there is an area referred to as the Vehicle Identification (VID) block. The VID block must be programmed when replacing the PCM. Failure to perform the proper Programmable Module Installation procedure may generate fault code: P1639 VID Block not programmed or is corrupt--P1635 Tire/Axle Out Of Acceptable Range. Refer to the following procedures to ensure the PCM is properly configured.”
So, I figured I'd have problems installing this.
I picked up a 2002 Mounty cluster on eBay for $50/shipped.
Tools: I used a 1/4 7mm long socket (or standard equiv.), 1/4 7/16 socket, Phillips head screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, t15 torx, small ice pick type tool
I did disconnect the battery during all this....I normally dont in my Ranger, but I know how sensitive these newer vehicles can be....
I cannot guarantee this process will work for you, I’m sure there were a few diff clusters and his just happened to be the way mine worked out.
This is a full walk-thru with pics....and LOTS of them....I'm a visual person....
First, the before pics..basic cluster..
Next, remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel and pull the top straight out. There are 3 clips at the top.
Next, remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the top panel
Remove the 2 screws that are in the panel right above/infront of the cluster
Pull Radio panel off, may have to get flathead screwdriver to get it started but be careful, it can break easily. I just laid mine down with all the wires connected.
Remove 3 Phillips head screws in the bottom steering column cover. Then pull the gear selector cover "up" on the selector to get it off the top cover and out of the way.
Next, yank the top trim panel forward, there is a clip on each side, one by the radio, and 1 above the headlight switch.
Now disconnect the 4 plugs from the back of it. Mine had 2 dummy plugs, plugged into yellow things and 2 plugs on the headlight switch.
Now wiggle the panel out. It’s a pain it the butt, so be careful not to break anything. It will come, just needs some pushing...
Now you are here..
Next, unscrew the 7/16 screw on the selector slider thingy. There is a loop at the end, kinda got to wiggle a finger in there and unhook it.
Now, unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the cluster and disconnect the plugs on each side. and wiggle it out.
So...now you know how to take it out...here comes the fun part...
I put the Mounty cluster in it and cranked up the truck, and it did NOTHING! So, its def not plug and play for some people. No needle movement, no dummy lights nothing. In this pic the truck is actually running...
So I took apart the clusters and they were totally different. Guy on eBay advertised that the cluster did not have the msg center in it...welllllll..it did.
Here's a run down of what I did to fix this issue. I made it a hybrid cluster.
I suggest doing this on a rug or a blanket or something to keep things from getting scratched.
First, remove the gear selector mechanism. 2 lil clips on each side.
Now I removed the 9 T15 torx or 7/16s screws from the back of the clusters
Now you have this...
Next EASILY pry the circuit board off.....on the left side where the msg center/mileage readout is, there is a small ribbon attached to it. That goes to the LCD readout from the circuit board. Carefully pull the clips back and pry it off.
Now we have this...
Now flip it over..there are a few clips that hold the clear cover and the black part onto the cluster base. unclip em and pull that off. The Mounty cluster will have a black trim piece inside of it.
Now pull the gage face off the base...
Do these steps for both of them. What I did was use parts of both of them. I used the Mounty gage face, the Mounty cluster base, the original LCD readout, original back circuit board and the original clear cover.
Swap the LCD readouts, as in put your orig. LCD on the Mounty gage face..
Difference in the msg centers
The original black piece that is attached to the clear cover would not work with the trim piece on the mounty cluster, so I swapped the clear covers, because the one from eBay was scratched up and my original one was not.
Now, I took the Mounty base, put the mouty gage face on it and then the black trim piece and then the black piece with the clear cover attached.
Flipped it over and attached the ribbon form the LCD to the circuit board and the gently pressed the circuit board onto the back of it. Then the black plastic cover.
There are some dummy gages that MAY be WRONG! The Door ajar light on my orig. cluster is now the Traction light on the Mounty cluster. There is no "Theft" or "check fuel cap" light on the Mounty cluster, so you will not be able to see those....
And the "Check gage" light is diff. it is something like "hot oil low coolant" or something like that on the Mounty cluster.
Now, I Put everything back in and together and it works fine. All needles work right, the mileage was the same, other dummy lights work..etc.
Finished pics...
In this night pic I realized that I forgot to plug the ribbon to the circuit board so I had to take it all back apart to plug it in. So yeah...it works now.
And, I think I may beed to ReCalibrate my Compass....
Anybody got any questions?
Oook...I know I don’t post on here too often, you guys have given me lots of info. I've been doing some upgrades to my girlfriends 2002 here in the last few weeks and this install was the most time consuming. There isn’t much info about this install on here and figured I'd give a lil more insight.
Had lots of problems with this install, but in the end it works.
Details: 2002 with a build date of 8/01.
There is a TSB (02-23-4, 11-25-02) regarding "Engine Controls - DTC P1635 Set after PCM/IC Replacement" says this,
“Article 02-5-8 is being republished in its entirety to update the Service Procedure and to clarify build dates for Explorer.
This article applies to all vehicles listed with the exception of 2002 Explorer. This article applies to 2002 Explorer (SLAP) St. Louis Assembly Plant built before 3/11/2002 and 2002 Explorer (LAP) Louisville Assembly Plant built before 3/4/2002 only.
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit an inoperative or inaccurate speedometer, 4x4 lamp illuminated, and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTCs) P1635 or P1639 present after a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Instrument Cluster replacement. This may be caused by the Vehicle Identification (VID) block that must be programmed when replacing the PCM.
ACTION
As part of the calibration, there is an area referred to as the Vehicle Identification (VID) block. The VID block must be programmed when replacing the PCM. Failure to perform the proper Programmable Module Installation procedure may generate fault code: P1639 VID Block not programmed or is corrupt--P1635 Tire/Axle Out Of Acceptable Range. Refer to the following procedures to ensure the PCM is properly configured.”
So, I figured I'd have problems installing this.
I picked up a 2002 Mounty cluster on eBay for $50/shipped.
Tools: I used a 1/4 7mm long socket (or standard equiv.), 1/4 7/16 socket, Phillips head screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, t15 torx, small ice pick type tool
I did disconnect the battery during all this....I normally dont in my Ranger, but I know how sensitive these newer vehicles can be....
I cannot guarantee this process will work for you, I’m sure there were a few diff clusters and his just happened to be the way mine worked out.
This is a full walk-thru with pics....and LOTS of them....I'm a visual person....
First, the before pics..basic cluster..
Next, remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the panel and pull the top straight out. There are 3 clips at the top.
Next, remove the 3 screws on the bottom of the top panel
Remove the 2 screws that are in the panel right above/infront of the cluster
Pull Radio panel off, may have to get flathead screwdriver to get it started but be careful, it can break easily. I just laid mine down with all the wires connected.
Remove 3 Phillips head screws in the bottom steering column cover. Then pull the gear selector cover "up" on the selector to get it off the top cover and out of the way.
Next, yank the top trim panel forward, there is a clip on each side, one by the radio, and 1 above the headlight switch.
Now disconnect the 4 plugs from the back of it. Mine had 2 dummy plugs, plugged into yellow things and 2 plugs on the headlight switch.
Now wiggle the panel out. It’s a pain it the butt, so be careful not to break anything. It will come, just needs some pushing...
Now you are here..
Next, unscrew the 7/16 screw on the selector slider thingy. There is a loop at the end, kinda got to wiggle a finger in there and unhook it.
Now, unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the cluster and disconnect the plugs on each side. and wiggle it out.
So...now you know how to take it out...here comes the fun part...
I put the Mounty cluster in it and cranked up the truck, and it did NOTHING! So, its def not plug and play for some people. No needle movement, no dummy lights nothing. In this pic the truck is actually running...
So I took apart the clusters and they were totally different. Guy on eBay advertised that the cluster did not have the msg center in it...welllllll..it did.
Here's a run down of what I did to fix this issue. I made it a hybrid cluster.
I suggest doing this on a rug or a blanket or something to keep things from getting scratched.First, remove the gear selector mechanism. 2 lil clips on each side.
Now I removed the 9 T15 torx or 7/16s screws from the back of the clusters
Now you have this...
Next EASILY pry the circuit board off.....on the left side where the msg center/mileage readout is, there is a small ribbon attached to it. That goes to the LCD readout from the circuit board. Carefully pull the clips back and pry it off.
Now we have this...
Now flip it over..there are a few clips that hold the clear cover and the black part onto the cluster base. unclip em and pull that off. The Mounty cluster will have a black trim piece inside of it.
Now pull the gage face off the base...
Do these steps for both of them. What I did was use parts of both of them. I used the Mounty gage face, the Mounty cluster base, the original LCD readout, original back circuit board and the original clear cover.
Swap the LCD readouts, as in put your orig. LCD on the Mounty gage face..
Difference in the msg centers
The original black piece that is attached to the clear cover would not work with the trim piece on the mounty cluster, so I swapped the clear covers, because the one from eBay was scratched up and my original one was not.
Now, I took the Mounty base, put the mouty gage face on it and then the black trim piece and then the black piece with the clear cover attached.
Flipped it over and attached the ribbon form the LCD to the circuit board and the gently pressed the circuit board onto the back of it. Then the black plastic cover.
There are some dummy gages that MAY be WRONG! The Door ajar light on my orig. cluster is now the Traction light on the Mounty cluster. There is no "Theft" or "check fuel cap" light on the Mounty cluster, so you will not be able to see those....
And the "Check gage" light is diff. it is something like "hot oil low coolant" or something like that on the Mounty cluster.
Now, I Put everything back in and together and it works fine. All needles work right, the mileage was the same, other dummy lights work..etc.
Finished pics...
In this night pic I realized that I forgot to plug the ribbon to the circuit board so I had to take it all back apart to plug it in. So yeah...it works now.
And, I think I may beed to ReCalibrate my Compass....
Anybody got any questions?
