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Must have mods 4.0 rebuild!

Noober1

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City, State
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 Mazda Navajo
What 4.0 mods do you support?
 



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I would put the SOHC flat top pistons in it for more compression. That might bump it up to 9.7:1 and they're fairly cheap to buy.
 






I would put the SOHC flat top pistons in it for more compression. That might bump it up to 9.7:1 and they're fairly cheap to buy.

You could also use 95tm heads with the 1st gen pistons to get higher compression too.

Search around here for that and the 422 cam. There are a few higher hp builds of the 1st gen X motor with that Cam and head combo.

~Mark
 






What mods you should do depends on the use, and what sort of money you're looking to dump into it and willing to pay over the long haul for doing so. The head/piston swap to increase compression is good, if you don't mind using high octane gas. The 410/422 cam is definitely another, but you'll need head work done and all the mods to go along with them.

I'd say the must-haves would be the revised rocker arm assemblies from Ford, which fixes the worn rocker problem common to all first gens. They are relatively cheap, even compared to the price of buying new rocker arms alone, and impact performance a great deal, not to mention noise and driveability. Of course if you get new rockers then new pushrods should go in as well.

Even if you don't go with 95TM heads, new, aftermarket 93TM heads are a bump up, since they are thicker and stronger than stock, and usually flow more air. Add this to a port/polish or just a general cleaning up of the upper and lower air intake and you address one of the bottlenecks of the stock system. Plan on a KKM intake and a cat-back exhaust if you don't have them already to take full advantage of the better flowing system.

Just going all out and making a 4.3 stroker might be the way to go for fun, but I don't know if it'd be the best thing for a street-driven ride, or even a trail rig.
 






I dont know much about these engines but i do plan to do a complete overhaul with some upgrades as well hopefully sooner rather than later!! So i am subscribing to this because i think its an awesome question and could turn into a very informative thread!
 






I would put stiffer valve springs in so your OHV can run at higher RPM. While you have the valves out, port and polish those heads. Use a Dremel with the "dentistry" attachment. Start off with a rougher sanding roll at low rpm to make it smooth inside then go down to a finer grit with high rpm and they polish up nicely. A Port and polish job cost next nothing to do for a noticeble increase in torque.
 






I'm subbing too, I'd love to hear peoples opinions on the best mods/mod combos for different purposes.

I'm nearing the point where I'm going to have to start allocating resources for a rebuild... hopefully I have a year or two left with the old block...
 






Well, Tom Morana Racing offers a neat 4.3L stroker kit and some other cool stuff for the 4.0. http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=32
Waste of money for the average person,unless build a racer.
I would put the SOHC flat top pistons in it for more compression. That might bump it up to 9.7:1 and they're fairly cheap to buy.
This is wrong.flat tops with first gens gets you about 10.8-11:1 depending on head gaskets thickness .95tm heads with first gen pistons is the safe way to go,gets you to 9.8-10:1
What mods you should do depends on the use, and what sort of money you're looking to dump into it and willing to pay over the long haul for doing so. The head/piston swap to increase compression is good, if you don't mind using high octane gas. The 410/422 cam is definitely another, but you'll need head work done and all the mods to go along with them.

I'd say the must-haves would be the revised rocker arm assemblies from Ford, which fixes the worn rocker problem common to all first gens. They are relatively cheap, even compared to the price of buying new rocker arms alone, and impact performance a great deal, not to mention noise and driveability. Of course if you get new rockers then new pushrods should go in as well.

Even if you don't go with 95TM heads, new, aftermarket 93TM heads are a bump up, since they are thicker and stronger than stock, and usually flow more air. Add this to a port/polish or just a general cleaning up of the upper and lower air intake and you address one of the bottlenecks of the stock system. Plan on a KKM intake and a cat-back exhaust if you don't have them already to take full advantage of the better flowing system.

Just going all out and making a 4.3 stroker might be the way to go for fun, but I don't know if it'd be the best thing for a street-driven ride, or even a trail rig.
agreed with most all.personally the 410 is not worth it unless just doing a stockish rebuild.
I would put stiffer valve springs in so your OHV can run at higher RPM. While you have the valves out, port and polish those heads. Use a Dremel with the "dentistry" attachment. Start off with a rougher sanding roll at low rpm to make it smooth inside then go down to a finer grit with high rpm and they polish up nicely. A Port and polish job cost next nothing to do for a noticeble increase in torque.

P+p is the MOST expensive mod you can do if you are paying someone.also the ohv does not benefit at all from higher rpms unless you go FI



we need more info on what your looking for and your price range....i can tell you how to drop 10-12grand in a heart beat!!;)
 






I'll throw this out there! DD but moderate offroader, want more power to push 35-37" tires, the stock 4.0 is pretty gutless we can all agree but most people don't have 12 grand to put in a motor! So when rebuilding so I can have a nearly new motor what would you recommend I don't forget to do?
 






Mainly just do it right. Watch any episode on the Powerblock when they have a legendary engine builder put a motor together. They aren't just slapping parts together out of the Jegs catalog. Everything is triple checked, aligned and fitted, balanced, the works. Friction is minimized, specific assembly and torque lubes used, and runouts checked. All high quality parts of course. Putting all that additional love into a motor build will pay off in the end and it will last longer and make more power.

Jd4242, as for the "waste of money" comment, Noober1's initial post was pretty vague - I figured before everyone chimes in with the usual answers, it doesn't hurt to throw some eye candy up there for inspirational purposes. Not to mention some parts Morana Racing offers like the ARP head studs and performance cams are useful to even "the average person". Whatever gets a person thinking outside the "average" box, even if they don't buy it, is good.
 






I'll throw this out there! DD but moderate offroader, want more power to push 35-37" tires, the stock 4.0 is pretty gutless we can all agree but most people don't have 12 grand to put in a motor! So when rebuilding so I can have a nearly new motor what would you recommend I don't forget to do?

I would recommend you ditch the 4.56 and get 4.88-5.12! you need least 4.88 for 35s or your all ways have a dog.
motor wise a simple good build would be the 422 10:1 route.things to add on would be
Mellings high flow pump
bored with new stock first gen pistons
engine quest 95tm heads
422cam with right size pushrods
sealed power or ford replacement rockers
SI stainless steel one piece valves
988 dual valve springs with the heads milled to fit
ported lower manifold.nothing else you really need to waste ALOT of money on
bbk tb or the half shaft mod
Under drive crank pulley with overdrive on the alt ..many won't agree with this mod.i TOTALLY support it
Electric fan
high flow cat and good 2.25-2.5 exhaust

that has been used by many and provided some of the best results.i have built five versions of the ohv and that has been the best combo with out getting to retarded into it.other option is just a good stock rebuild with 410cam and high flow oil pump,won't gain anything but a improved stock motor.
 






Mainly just do it right. Watch any episode on the Powerblock when they have a legendary engine builder put a motor together. They aren't just slapping parts together out of the Jegs catalog. Everything is triple checked, aligned and fitted, balanced, the works. Friction is minimized, specific assembly and torque lubes used, and runouts checked. All high quality parts of course. Putting all that additional love into a motor build will pay off in the end and it will last longer and make more power.

Jd4242, as for the "waste of money" comment, Noober1's initial post was pretty vague - I figured before everyone chimes in with the usual answers, it doesn't hurt to throw some eye candy up there for inspirational purposes. Not to mention some parts Morana Racing offers like the ARP head studs and performance cams are useful to even "the average person". Whatever gets a person thinking outside the "average" box, even if they don't buy it, is good.

Yea i hear the eye candy but its couple thousand and that's just the crank,pistons and rods.there is no need for a stroker kit unless MANY other mods go with it.also head studs are not need till you go over 12psi or 150shot+
arp can may stronger head bolts that don't cost $400+ and no real need for stroking,you can bore to a true 4" bore and use 302 forged pistons for a 1/3 of that price.the biggest problem with making power is the small valves in the motor,if you cant get around that FI is the only way the ohv will make power.
 






P+p is the MOST expensive mod you can do if you are paying someone.

No way in hell would I be paying someone to port & polish my heads. All you need is a day to do it yourself, take your time, do it right, do it free.

also the ohv does not benefit at all from higher rpms unless you go FI

I think if you got one those OHV's to "breathe" better and kept the valves from floating then it would be handy to still be making power at over 4k RPM especially if you have your foot buried in the carpet with an automatic transmission.
 






No way in hell would I be paying someone to port & polish my heads. All you need is a day to do it yourself, take your time, do it right, do it free.



I think if you got one those OHV's to "breathe" better and kept the valves from floating then it would be handy to still be making power at over 4k RPM especially if you have your foot buried in the carpet with an automatic transmission.

Yep.key is not to go crazy tho because the ohv flow pretty good besides the valves or the aftermarket do.just a lite polish and smooth out cast marks.the lower intake is a hole different story.most ohv even with the 422 fall off hard after 4800rpms.yea i gained ALOT upping it another 1000.my dyno man wanted to take it to 7000 but i didnt feel comfortable ,was making good power all the way to 6000;)i have a manual auto trans tho.
 












Cost of a complete engine rebuild....what should I not pay?

When she's all put together and I'm sitting in the monster.... I wanna hear THEM MUSIC! Here's my Choice......listen all the way through!


what makes a man, is it the woman in his arms?
just cause she has big *******?
or is it the way, he fights every day?
No, it's probably the *******.

now you're a man, a man, man, man.
now you're a ma-man, a ma-ma-ma-ma-man
now you're a man, M-A-N man, man.
man, man, maan.
now you're a man.
 







Its a full built stage 2 a4ld with a combination of shift kits and parts.it doesn't shift by itself if your in the gas.tried to solve it many times.my trany guy said it might but would be hard to dial in being a vac controlled.said all the changes to the valve body made it manual.pulls super strong for the amount of power im making at fly wheel for a A4,waiting on it to go tho.im not a auto guy at ALL. But cant wheel a manual to save my life.
 






Cost of a complete engine rebuild....what should I not pay?

Money should not be a up front thing if your talking about a first gen.your never get. any where close to what you put in it back.but it all depends on what you want.if you want big power then a 5.0 swap is best if you have the time.if you want one off v8sound/slight power then built v6.if you want 4.0 reliability with slight improvements then a stock rebuild with 410 can be done for around a grand.if you try and mod a ohv for big power you will be very disappointed unless you going one off and dropping big money in it.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Cost of a complete engine rebuild....what should I not pay?

When she's all put together and I'm sitting in the monster.... I wanna hear THEM MUSIC! Here's my Choice......listen all the way through!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oECIKVaz5rc

what makes a man, is it the woman in his arms?
just cause she has big *******?
or is it the way, he fights every day?
No, it's probably the *******.

now you're a man, a man, man, man.
now you're a ma-man, a ma-ma-ma-ma-man
now you're a man, M-A-N man, man.
man, man, maan.
now you're a man.

Hahah ;)
 






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