Mustang MAF sensor swap?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Mustang MAF sensor swap??

Derek

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City, State
miami, fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer sport
i was reading a post about someone swapping their MAF sensor for one off of a mustang. My question is does it matter if i have a 4.0l and i stick a mustang sensor on my car will it still work or does that trick only really work for 5.0l engines.
 



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I've got a 98 Explorer Sport as well

I vote try it and tell us. Nothing bad should happen to your engine. Just drive it around for a tank or so, swap back out, and see if there's a decrease after swapping back ot the smaller MAF.
And then post the results. BTW, I read that thread and was realy interested......
Karl
 






I think I might try this trick as well. I read that thread too. Should I disconnect the battery even though I'll be using the same sensor? Somebody said it didnt run very well after they reconnected it, but I figured I'd try it anyways. I want a Pro-M since I'd get a better sensor, but there are a few other things I want to buy first and also, I don't know I if want to spend that much money. I'll post any results after I install it. I'll call around tomorrow and head out to the junkyard in the next day or so.
 






Sounds like you know the difference between the MAF SENSOR and the MAF SENSOR HOUSING, so it sounds ok.

Just make sure you use your 4.0 liter's actual MAF SENSOR. You can use the Mustang's MAF sensor HOUSING (it's larger diameter) as long as you can get it to bolt up to the air tube and your 4.0's sensor without any air leaks.

If you try to use the Mustang MAF sensor, your truck may not run well, since the 4.0's PCM isn't programmed with the air/fuel curves for a Mustang MAF sensor. I think there's another thread here all about this.
 






Ive heard of people taking them off mustangs or buying aftermarket ones for the mustang but they dont work. They arent calibrated the same, you can buy a kit out of summit and calibrate if but i dont know how hard it is
 






I had a 80mm Mass air housing that I got from a mustang buddy. I did not recalibrate my mass air sensor and the truck did not like it at all. When I let it idle it seemed as if the truck was going to stall and going to die.
 






maf and throttle body size

If you have a large MAF diameter (70mm) and a small throttle body (58mm), it leans out the air/fuel mixture. The larger air volume reaches the smaller diameter throttle body, is compressed, and speeds up a bit thru the throttle opening. This is why the engine wants to stall. You'll get a check engine light with a lean mixture warning on your code reader

The best solution for this to increase the throttle body too, but match the diameters as close as possible. A 65 mm MAF and 65mm throttle body for the V8 is ideal.

My 97 5.0 has a 70 mm maf with the original electronic module, and a 65 mm motorsport throttle body with the original explorer linkage, machined and retrofitted in my garage. it wasn't too arduous a task. Pickup is decent, and the engine runs smoother.

New O2 sensors didn't hurt either.
 






Didn't feel like starting a new thread for this, so I just bumped this up.

I've seen a few Pro-M 80 MM on eBay for good prices, but they are for mustangs. There's a place called Best Products that recalibrates them for $80 but I can't seem to find a website for them. Anyone know it or any others that recalibrate MAS?
 






ChopinOn22s said:
Didn't feel like starting a new thread for this, so I just bumped this up.

I've seen a few Pro-M 80 MM on eBay for good prices, but they are for mustangs. There's a place called Best Products that recalibrates them for $80 but I can't seem to find a website for them. Anyone know it or any others that recalibrate MAS?
If you buy a Pro-M on ebay, have Pro-M re-calibrate to your specs
 






you leave for a week and then reply with nothing useful? :D
 






You could get an 80mm Mustang MAF and have a chip burned to run it. Just a thought! :D

Joe
 






Rodeo Joe said:
You could get an 80mm Mustang MAF and have a chip burned to run it. Just a thought! :D

Joe

I didn't know if the chip would take care of everything, or I need to get it recalibrated and the chip?
 






you need the plot of airflow vs. sensor output signal for the chip to take care of it. it can be programmed in but the programmer needs the information for your MAF housing sensor combo

its what others have called the "curve"

if you check around with some of mustang tuners you might be able to get the stock curve data

edit: there is a EEC tuner group on Yahoo! groups that you might be able to extract some info from. I looked into using a mustang maf awhile back and hunted through some of their archives to get some info. Its pretty hardcore tuning stuff going on in there so be warned. I never asked a question of the group but don't know how well they would embrace a complete newbie that isn't really into tuning but just trying to get something to work.
 






i'll also add that by researching some of the aftermarket maf units out there i found some use "calibration tubes" and have you use the stock sensor. Basically the idea is that the sensor gets a proportion of the airflow to sample and then sends a signal to the eec on how much total air is passing through. its basically a ratio game. This is not the best way to go about upgrading the maf housing from what i gathered.

I did however use this idea in the setup i am currently running. I made a MAf housing from 3" exhaust pipe. Cut out a section and welded in a flat plate to mount the sensor to. cut a hole in the plate to allow the sensor pickup to pass through and then added a sampling tube on the inside of the housing. In order to figure out how big to make the tube bore, I measured the stock sensor and then made the proportions the same.

(stock bore ~58mm/stock sampling hole) == (new bore of slightly less than 3"/new sampling tube)

I never really wanted to do a write up on it b/c i may have just been lucky with the one i made and couldn't be certain if it would work for others. Some people on the site have also been adament about not trying to get away with something when dealing with the MAF and that if you are going to do it, spend the $200 or its a crap shoot if something will go wrong. I'm not really sure to the extent of the possible consequences but if you plan for the worse case that would be somewhere in the area of a new engine and the control system

that being said, i have been running mine for 20,000+ miles and still haven't thrown a code. of course i guess my computer could be dead and my engine operates by some freak glich in the 14 year old wiring. :D
 






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