Tike
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 261
- Reaction score
- 18
- City, State
- Greater Philadelphia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 08 Ford Sport Trac XLT
i used a good bit of photos so here is a one drive link. to my write up if there are any issues.
Muth Mirrors.docx
Video Demo – Brake/signal used.
20190415_210542.mp4
Disclaimer - I used photos from Muths instructions.
Muth Mirrors – with signals
H-Mod – heating kit
Time: 4hours.
**comments
The H-mod harness is very short if you want to mount it on the drive door you will need to extend the ground and 12V power leads.
The new mirrors have a plastic mount on the back that fits into the OEM housing. This is a bit too shallow and causes the mirrors to rub if you adjust them too far. Nothing crazy just annoying.
SOLDER & heat shrink every thing, don’t use the splices they are a PITA.
Recommend NOT running the passenger wires for H-mod through the dash but rather down the kick panel to the back of the cab then behind the plastic backing behind seats then up the driver side kick panels. This will require addition wire but this is WAY faster and cleaner than having to tear your dash apart too and having to fish the wires through there. Also because I tapped into rear passenger brake/signal I had to run the signal/indictor wires from mirror to driver side kick panel to tap into wireharness.
I used the brake/signal. (This causes the mirror to light up when the brakes are applied and the signal –see video)
If you are only doing the signal mod, after the wires are run into the cab you can reattach the door panels. If you are doing the hmod decide where you want the toggle switch before reattaching the drive side door panels
Also the instructions they sent are in black and white so they are video easy to get confused on. Use the online pdf with color From their site.
INSTRUCTIONS
***muth instructions - https://shop.muthco.com/content/pdf/install/21001450.pdf
First
Door panel removal (no handle below window controls)
**passenger side is basically the same thing minus the mirror adjusting knob.
Second
remove the side view mirror housing. And use a heat gun on the mirrors.
it is easy to snap the tabs on old mirror so be careful and take your time.
Third
*** removing the rubber grommet / sleeving that connects the door to body is a huge PITA. Highly recommend using a wire-fish and not disconnecting the rubber grommet from the body if possible.
Taillight wires
REAR Passenger side- ignore the splice. That was from a back-up camera I was testing.
purple w/ orange is brake/signal. White w/blue is signal. Black w/ yellow is ground.
REAR Driver side. – grey w/ brown is brake/signal. White w/blue is signal. Black w/ yellow is ground.
the passenger rear tail light wires route from the drive side kick panel to the rear cab then go under the vehicle, inside of a plastic harness. *** could not find the passenger rear brake/signal wire in the harness that was on passenger side kick panel, so I extended the wire and ran them around cab to drive side and spliced in over there. (would have been really nice.) the slit in grey/brown wire is from testing. Its fixed.
Here is a photo of the driver side wire harness. There was 4+ grey with brown wires. So I had to test all of them with a multi meter while the turn signal was on. Same thing with the purple/orange passenger wire.
Here is muth’s instruction which have the front indicator wire colors on then too, which is probably easier but again I wanted the brake feature and you HAVE to merge the positive, and the negative wires of the H-mod heating element before connecting them to the toggle switch, so I ran those wires around the cab too. (see bellow photo with red circle)
H-MOD
I chose to locate the power for the H-Mod directly above the mirror adjustment knob. Again I had to solder on a few feet of wire to be able to run back into the cab so I can splice into a 12V accessory.
*** I wasn’t sure if I could tap into the electronic window controls, and they often struggle in the winter so I didn’t want risk any issues. So this might be an option
Video Demo – Brake/signal used.
20190415_210542.mp4
Muth Mirrors.docx
Video Demo – Brake/signal used.
20190415_210542.mp4
Disclaimer - I used photos from Muths instructions.
Muth Mirrors – with signals
H-Mod – heating kit
Time: 4hours.
**comments
The H-mod harness is very short if you want to mount it on the drive door you will need to extend the ground and 12V power leads.
The new mirrors have a plastic mount on the back that fits into the OEM housing. This is a bit too shallow and causes the mirrors to rub if you adjust them too far. Nothing crazy just annoying.
SOLDER & heat shrink every thing, don’t use the splices they are a PITA.
Recommend NOT running the passenger wires for H-mod through the dash but rather down the kick panel to the back of the cab then behind the plastic backing behind seats then up the driver side kick panels. This will require addition wire but this is WAY faster and cleaner than having to tear your dash apart too and having to fish the wires through there. Also because I tapped into rear passenger brake/signal I had to run the signal/indictor wires from mirror to driver side kick panel to tap into wireharness.
I used the brake/signal. (This causes the mirror to light up when the brakes are applied and the signal –see video)
If you are only doing the signal mod, after the wires are run into the cab you can reattach the door panels. If you are doing the hmod decide where you want the toggle switch before reattaching the drive side door panels
Also the instructions they sent are in black and white so they are video easy to get confused on. Use the online pdf with color From their site.
INSTRUCTIONS
***muth instructions - https://shop.muthco.com/content/pdf/install/21001450.pdf
First
Door panel removal (no handle below window controls)
**passenger side is basically the same thing minus the mirror adjusting knob.
Second
remove the side view mirror housing. And use a heat gun on the mirrors.
it is easy to snap the tabs on old mirror so be careful and take your time.
Third
*** removing the rubber grommet / sleeving that connects the door to body is a huge PITA. Highly recommend using a wire-fish and not disconnecting the rubber grommet from the body if possible.
Taillight wires
REAR Passenger side- ignore the splice. That was from a back-up camera I was testing.
purple w/ orange is brake/signal. White w/blue is signal. Black w/ yellow is ground.
REAR Driver side. – grey w/ brown is brake/signal. White w/blue is signal. Black w/ yellow is ground.
the passenger rear tail light wires route from the drive side kick panel to the rear cab then go under the vehicle, inside of a plastic harness. *** could not find the passenger rear brake/signal wire in the harness that was on passenger side kick panel, so I extended the wire and ran them around cab to drive side and spliced in over there. (would have been really nice.) the slit in grey/brown wire is from testing. Its fixed.
Here is a photo of the driver side wire harness. There was 4+ grey with brown wires. So I had to test all of them with a multi meter while the turn signal was on. Same thing with the purple/orange passenger wire.
Here is muth’s instruction which have the front indicator wire colors on then too, which is probably easier but again I wanted the brake feature and you HAVE to merge the positive, and the negative wires of the H-mod heating element before connecting them to the toggle switch, so I ran those wires around the cab too. (see bellow photo with red circle)
H-MOD
I chose to locate the power for the H-Mod directly above the mirror adjustment knob. Again I had to solder on a few feet of wire to be able to run back into the cab so I can splice into a 12V accessory.
*** I wasn’t sure if I could tap into the electronic window controls, and they often struggle in the winter so I didn’t want risk any issues. So this might be an option
Video Demo – Brake/signal used.
20190415_210542.mp4
