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Mutineer Torque Monster Install

Mutineer

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 23, 2005
Messages
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Location
Ardmore, AL
City, State
Ardmore, AL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XLT 4X4
Callsign
FLOYD
Hey Yall I got the Headers last week and finally got to put them on last night.

Took about 4 hours all-together.

The CD that came with the set did not work, but this aint my first rodeo so I adapted and overcame.

I have a 3 inch Lift kit on the body so it went easier for me than some...check out TECHIEMAN's thread I think he is putting up pics of an install without the lift.

On the Right Side:

  1. From underneath: Removed the 2- 9/16" (14MM) nuts on the Motor mount bolt/studs that hold on the starter cables and the Tranny lines
  2. Removed the 2- 1/2" (13MM) Motor mount bolt/studs from underneath,
  3. Lifted the engine,
  4. Removed the old header,
  5. Cleaned and wire-brushed the mating surfaces on the head and the header,
  6. Lock-tited the bolts and threw on the left side header from the wheel well.
  7. Replaced the motor mount bolts, with a mild difficulty getting one of them to line back up, and that side was done.

On the Left Side:

  1. Removed the serpentine belt using the 15MM bolt on the tensioner.
  2. Took the power steering reservior loose by removing the bottom hose(pressure clip) and drained it
  3. Removed the 3- 5/16" (8MM) bolts holding it on.
  4. Removed the 4 bolt/studs for the AC Compressor [2 10mm nuts for hose/cable placement brackets and then 2 1/2' (13MM) bolts and 2 1/2" (13MM) studs for the compressor]
  5. Moved the compressor forward enough to access the front bolt.
  6. Removed all the bolts and the nut from the stud for the oil dipstick tube.
  7. Removed the oil dipstick, then the dipstick tube
  8. Removed the remaining stud
  9. Removed the old header and took it out through the top,
  10. Put in the new Header through the top,
  11. Lock-tited the bolts and bolted her on.

I then replaced all 8 of the plug wires and had to re-route a few of them to keep them from burning. (GET SOME METAL HEAT SHIELDS)

Due to the Lift kit, I had to grind down the bolt and weld-nut on the steering linkage to keep it from hitting the headers and binding up the steering.

Refilled the PS system and worked the air out, and then checked for parts and tools around the truck.

Then I bolted up the exhaust pipes to the new headers, using the supplied bolts and lock-tite, and let them sing.

Ill let the pics show the rest, any questions feel free. (yes, I know My camera's date is off...lol :D )
 

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More Pics
 

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last but not least
 

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These things are awesome.

I feel big gains in take off, and my "power band" went from 3000-4000 to 2500-3500.

I can hold 70 up a hill now without downshifting(33's with stock gears).

Usually it takes me 1/4 tank of gas to get to work, today the needle didnt even move!

when I downshift and get on it, it actually throws me back a little :D :D :D

I could not be happier.

WELL WORTH THE WAIT!

ROBERT PASQUALE: THANKS BROTHER ! ! ! :notworthy
 












It was easier for me with the lift....

No leaks whatsoever, and the sound kicks ass.

I have leaks around my Converter on the Left Bank, but they dont have anything to do with the install.

Without the leaky old headers, I can her them now...lol

Thanks!
 






Nice

How close is your steering shaft to the header tube?
Body lift = can cause issues.

nice steering extension!

TM Headers rule

The CD worked fine for me, on both sets hahaha
Enjoy it and fix your other leaks so you can really hear them.

TIP:

Make SURE you put locktite on the header bolts
Check the torque on them like 3 times in the next few weeks
PROTECT those wires, brake booster hose may need to be re-located, fuel lines heat protected, check vacuum lines, etc
With the coating they still get damn hot, just ask my hands (burn marks from headers ooops). No fun losing your brake booster to melted plastic hose, yes plastic hose on some Ford trucks! hahaha

Some of those bolts are fun hua? hehehe
I have them licked now

Keep an eye on the gaskets, I eventually went with copper gaskets after having issues with the shipped ones...but then I have issues alot so its all good :) My explorer is running the TM gaskets and not a single leak still, the BII I was not so lucky

4 hours is good for a first timer to TM's hahahaha (totally kidding
 






Thanks!

HOOAH! I wore out my 3/8" combo wrench on a few of those bolts!:hammer:

Yeah, I had to grind down the Steering ext bolt and weld nut to make it work. they were binding up BAD. The bottom of the shaft still rubs slightly, but its OK, its the round part so it doesnt bind up, just rubs...

S.A.S. will fix that :D :thumbsup:

I LOVE these things. :burnout:

Thanks for the tip on the fuel lines and BB hose, the wires I think I got licked (I hope)...

I am going to look into building an entirely new steering extension shaft so it wont rub anymore.
 






You can also do like I did and change the angle of the shaft from the steering column to firewall a bit. I used some 5/8" bronze bushings (thickness) on the two front bolts under the wheen and some 1/2" bronze bushings on the rear 2 bolts, lifting the steering wheel up just a bit under th edash but changing the angle downward just a bit coming through the firewall boot

This would give you enough to clear, I actually went a step further and removed metal from the firewall and created a new boot, but as I said my steering shaft was basically in the header tube

see my 96 builder thread for details on that towards the end
 






You can also do like I did and change the angle of the shaft from the steering column to firewall a bit. I used some 5/8" bronze bushings (thickness) on the two front bolts under the wheen and some 1/2" bronze bushings on the rear 2 bolts, lifting the steering wheel up just a bit under th edash but changing the angle downward just a bit coming through the firewall boot

This would give you enough to clear, I actually went a step further and removed metal from the firewall and created a new boot, but as I said my steering shaft was basically in the header tube

see my 96 builder thread for details on that towards the end

I was thinking something similar... I was thinking I could loosen up the bolts in the firewall and shift it as far to the lower right as possible....or relocate the holes. I like your idea better though... Ill check it out
 






Ok, I used a smaller Grade 8 bolt and ground it down and no problems now....when the SAS is done the shaft wont even be close anymore cuz its going outside the frame and out to the side, so I think Ill leave it like that till then.

Soon as the Mustang is done I will start on the SAS... Its almost done now so wont be long.
 

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So just by grinding the bolt down, TMH + 3" BL can be acomplished with no binding? Only rubbing?
 






So just by grinding the bolt down, TMH + 3" BL can be acomplished with no binding? Only rubbing?

Right. I ground down all my welds and the bolt and all it does is rub alittle on the bolt. Its not noticeable when driving, but you'll feel it when you look for it... Might be able to weld the top otf the shaft and forgo the bolt....then after you grind the welds you should clear... I just never did cuz I knew I was doing the SAS...
 






What I did was to get a peice of square tubing about 3" in length (I adjusted the length several times) and weld it in just below the joint where the top bolt is.

This was not an issue untill the TMH install, never had a problem till I put them in.

In restrospect I would put the steering extension ABOVE the top bolt...

the bolt would then be at a spot where the tubes are farther back and might not cause any issues at all...

The only other place it touches is the round part, so all It would do is rub...

Just a thought for future endeavors:
 

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Anyyy way we could get you to test it?... Or is all of that torn apart for the SAS?
 






Yeah that's all gone now...the shaft is just hanging there cuz the R&P and everything it sits on is gone...but placed the shaft where it goes and did the measurements. Im confident that if your welds are strong it will work.

The problem with the way I did it is that I now cannot separate that shaft cuz I had to grind down the bolt so far...like said before, I knew it when I did it but didnt care at the time due to future plans.

You would prolly want to use a smaller peice of tubing than I did, and I would use a peice of solid round stock about 1" in diameter, and cut slots for each end of the shaft to fit into, like lincoln logs. this will put less stress on your welds and be more solid.

you could even cut down that bottom part another 1/2" to put the bolt between the pipes, and add the lenthg back in at the top when you do the spacer...

Where you place it is up to you, but I beleive above that top bolt is the way to go if I was doing it again.
 






These things are awesome.

I feel big gains in take off, and my "power band" went from 3000-4000 to 2500-3500.

I can hold 70 up a hill now without downshifting(33's with stock gears).

Usually it takes me 1/4 tank of gas to get to work, today the needle didnt even move!

when I downshift and get on it, it actually throws me back a little :D :D :D

I could not be happier.

WELL WORTH THE WAIT!

ROBERT PASQUALE: THANKS BROTHER ! ! ! :notworthy


Thank you and All the Best...

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers
 






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