My 1999 Sport | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My 1999 Sport

Well for awhile now, I've been looking for a second gen Sport with a manual transmission.

a few days ago, I came across one for $800, the guy said it was clean, and needed a fuel pump. So I checked it out, like it for the most part. It had a few big scratched on the rear left quarter panel, and the obviously hit something with the front right, because the hood and quarter panel are a little beat. Oh well, the rest of the body is great, the interior is great (Compared to mine) Great!

He said it had some transmission work and engine work done. Alright, cool.

Looking under it, it was quite clean for having 170k miles on it, and ALMOST NO RUST. but we jumped it to hear it turn over, and it sounded alright. However, I still found it hard to pay $800 dollars for something I couldn't test drive. Also, I noticed the engine had numbers on it with a paint pen, I thought junk yard engine, so that had me worried. Well, he went to go pick up the title, and I went home to think about it.

It was really hard to decide, so I asked him if he'd take any less, and he said the lowest he could go if $700, but he would like $800. I replied, if you could take $700 I'll be down there to pick it up.

Well, I went down there, did the paper work, handed the money over, and had my brother help tow it home with my 1992 Explorer!

When I got home, I looked over the receipt he gave me of the work the shop did.


This was all done at 165k miles, so only 5k miles ago, however, about 4 years ago.

I thought, oh wow, all new clutch hydraulics and clutch 5k miles ago? Sweet!

And then "Engine has been replaced with raman... blah blah" Popped out to me.

So I ran outside to go inspect the finer details of the engine, and I start noticing, WOW there is not a drop of oil anywhere, even though it was full of oil! The valve covers are super clean, all the bolts a perfect, even the heads just BARELY have rust creeping from the manifold onto them. (Well, the exhaust system and drive shaft are the only things with rust) So I figured well, it must be rebuilt or such a low mileage engine, that the shop thinks it's rebuilt! Score!

So I sprayed starting fluid in it, and jumped it again, (Dead battery) And it sounded SMOOTH! It held a perfect idle for like 3 seconds, immediately even after sitting for a few years! No ticks at all either!

Well, here are some pics!



I'll get more detailed pictures of the interior, engine, undercarriage, and damage later.

I started diagnosing the pump myself, just to make sure it was a power issue, I could here the relay clicking, so I checked for power through the inertia switch, it was good! So today, I dropped the tank! SO EASY! NO FREAKING RUST! (My '92 took four days to drop because of rust!)

I love not living in the rust belt, or near the coast! (The latter, is the issue with my '92)


I pulled out the battery charger, and put power directly to the pump, nothing! reversed polarity, a small jolt, and nothing! (Except a little arcing.) That thing is FROZEN!

And now here I am, I have to pay off my debt, and then get a new pump. Or find someone willing to loan me and put me further in debt.

I am so excited to drive this thing! If it turns out as good as it's appearing to me, this thing is a STEAL! Then I plan to give the dude the $100 I talked him down.

Thanks for reading!

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Today the new fuel pump showed up, and I got it all installed, then went and got windshield wipers and a new battery. I took it for a test drive, and there are a few issues that need to be worked out.

First, it shudders really bad when turning. More or less when the PS is under load. A quick search told me it was air in the system, caused by turning while the engine wasn't running. Makes sense, because I had to tow it home.

The second, the clutch is not disengaging all the way, because it's hard to get into gear. You can tell there should be much more travel, and you can pull the pedal back almost twice it's movement now. (If that makes sense.) So I plan to bleed it of course.
Also the clutch position sensor pulls apart when I do that? So it needs replaced.

And third, clutch and brake are slightly connected to each other, so when you push the clutch, the brake will also slightly depress. Would work nice if you're on a hill and not quick to get going. lol But it can't be designed to do that, right? Well, it has rust. So the only places with real rust is, the exhaust, drive shaft, and the pedal assemblies. Tsk tsk tsk.

So I will try and clean it up, if it doesn't free up the pedals, the to do list is:

Oil change (I feel guilty for not already doing it)
Bleed PS
Bleed clutch
Check all other fluids. Diff, trans, etc.
Replace pedal assembly
Replace Clutch position switch, whatever it's called.
Among other things...

After that stuff though, I think it will be ready for daily driving!

After closer inspection I found the two top bolts for the pedal assembly are missing. (It has been replaced recently) AND by a shop that's part of a Ford dealership! How do they miss putting in those bolts?! Anyways, so it has like a half inch gap and the whole thing moves more when you push the clutch or brake. So, that should be an easy fix for why the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Now I just need to free the clutch pedal from the brake pedal.

Tomorrow I hope to get the oil change done, and then take it to the local Ace Hardware to find the right bolts.

I got one bolt in the top of the pedal assembly, and as suspected, it's much better! I can't figure out how to get the other one though. lol It is really cramped in there! I got the oil change done, bled the power steering, and pumped up the tires, and it is much more driveable now! It still is kinda hard to get into second sometimes, and first when you're stopped, but hopefully flushing and bleeding the clutch, and changing the trans oil will fix that.

The anti-lock brakes are nice too. I have never stopped so fast. Haha