My 2000 Explorer 4 door XLT

[4pointslow]

Check the coil for cracks on the base. I replaced mine. I had some random stray misfires.

I have no misfires, truck runs pretty good.
Also have a few spare coils, LOL.

 

[4pointslow]

In post 76 I mentioned my cruise control was not working and wondered if it was a blown fuse due to brake fluid leaking into the cruise control deactivation switch on the Master cylinder.
The fuse was not blown, however it was not in good shape. LOL

This is a sub harness with fuses built into it to prevent fires. The original design had no fuses in the circuits and battery voltage is present at all times even with the cruise control or engine off!
As a fix this harness was invented with fuses in it so they would blow before anything could get hot and catch fire. The fuses are 2 amp.
In this harness both circuits are fused, there are some harnesses that only have one fuse so you cant just install that on every vehicle.
The double fused harness was made to be able to be installed on most vehicles. There is a TSB or two around that explain which harness to use on which vehicle.

A close look will reveal the problem....

Here is a closer view.

I pulled the fuse out and now it looks like this....
The fuse holder and fuse corroded pretty badly, I might just look for another harness with the dual fuses in it.

 

[4pointslow]

I would also do the lower intake gasket (I did mine when it was off). I got the OEM gasket. Honestly it still looked good, but who knows. At least re-torque the lower intake bolts, years ago mine were loose. I think the failure mode is loose bolts leading to a leak. The OEM German Gasket looks pretty stout.

That's it, you jinxed me! LOL
Drove home with no problems. Went out to get the mail an hour later and this puddle was under the vehicle.
Its definitely antifreeze and the radiator, water pump, and hoses are dry.
I saw antifreeze running down the drivers side of the timing cover, I'm pretty sure it is a lower intake gasket. LOL

The drivers side valve cover I ordered did come in so I guess it will be a good time to replace that when I do the lower intake gasket.
I'm back down to one drivable vehicle again, the 2004 supercharged 4 door Explorer.

 

[fast_dave]

The drivers side valve cover I ordered did come in so I guess it will be a good time to replace that when I do the lower intake gasket.
I'm back down to one drivable vehicle again, the 2004 supercharged 4 door Explorer.

@4pointslow,

I suggest the following:

Set a day aside to send out the lower intake to be hot washed/tanked and bead blasted.
Reason: The intake passages will be filled with a thick coat of tar/baked on motor oil.
I did this last year when I replaced my heads & head gaskets, refurbished my fuel injectors, yada, yada, yada.
It was the best $40 I spent on the job - night & day difference results - a local engine rebuild shop did it for me overnight.
You'll achieve a clean reassembly which will assist you in hitting your goal of leak free results - you'll feel good looking at your clean intake

 

[4pointslow]

That looks beautiful !!!!
Unfortunately I don't have time to do this because I have to get on my Ranger transmission rebuild.
I am down to one vehicle and if that breaks down I will not be a happy camper!
Going to get the gaskets to fix this engine today, might have to have them shipped to my local parts store for Friday.
Friday after work I start the removal process of the intake.

 

[masospaghetti]

I would pressure test the system before you tear into it. Get a loaner tester from Autozone (for free). I found a bunch of tiny coolant leaks I would have never found otherwise.

Based on your description it sounds like it could be one of the heater hoses, radiator hose, or thermostat housing

 

[4pointslow]

I would pressure test the system before you tear into it. Get a loaner tester from Autozone (for free). I found a bunch of tiny coolant leaks I would have never found otherwise.

Based on your description it sounds like it could be one of the heater hoses, radiator hose, or thermostat housing

I own a Snap On coolant pressure tester. Already used it and it won't hold pressure at all.
Coolant was leaking down the driver side of the engine over top of the timing cover, but behind the AC/PS bracket where you can't see all that well.
Thermostat housing is new and leak free as well as the radiator hoses.
The heater hoses are all dry, I wish it was one of those cause I would have had it fixed already. I'm lucky, just not that lucky!
It did wait to leak until I got home, I am glad of that because I already used my one free tow for the year from AAA when my timing chains went in my old blue 98 four door. Got lucky with my 2001 Ranger too as I lost 2nd,5th, and Reverse but was still able to drive it home by using D2 and then D with O/D turned off.

Today I ordered the Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket kit in store, They said they would have it ready for me to pick up tomorrow on my way home from work. I will pressure test it one more time when I get the AC/Power Steering Bracket out of the way of vision.
The leak is either lower intake, timing cover, or head gasket. Since 96eb96 told me to do the lower intake gasket when I had the valve covers off and I did not due to time constraints, I'll bet it is the lower intake LOL. If it is he can definitely give me a told you so! LOL

 

[96eb96]

That looks beautiful !!!!
Unfortunately I don't have time to do this because I have to get on my Ranger transmission rebuild.
I am down to one vehicle and if that breaks down I will not be a happy camper!
Going to get the gaskets to fix this engine today, might have to have them shipped to my local parts store for Friday.
Friday after work I start the removal process of the intake.

Get some purple power from walmart, agitate with a brush, and hit it with a pressure washer. Not as nice as his museum piece but pretty good.

 

[4pointslow]

LOL, I got purple power in the garage! That stuff is great.

 

[4pointslow]

Got a bunch of parts this week, started on it again tonight after work.
Tonight I installed the fuel tank vent valve, it was pretty easy to install.
I jacked up the rear of the truck and put jack stands underneath. (I have 24 inch SUV jack stands and just had them on a lower setting)
Rolled under with a creeper and was able to remove the vent valve without even dropping the tank at all.
A pair of slip joint pliers fit right in there and a counter clockwise twist and it came out the top of the tank.
It was a tight fit clearing the under body of the truck but I was able to get that old broken one out of there.
The new one went right in, I lubed the sealing o-ring with a little engine oil and it went right into place.
Even the plastic evap hose clicked on without too much trouble. Now I can fill my tank all the way up!
Should also have no more evap codes now too!

 

[4pointslow]

Next up was the sway bar frame mount bushings. I have the 34mm sway bar.
I did these with the truck completely on the ground, no jack or stands.
Rolled under on a creeper and removed the 13mm bolts with an electric impact gun.
Only took about 5-10 minutes to replace both, I had to pull down on the sway bar just a little to get the old bushings out and the new ones in.

The old bushings and the new box.

The new bushings installed.

I hope that annoying rattle is gone now, I will have to wait until I get the lower intake manifold gasket done to test drive it.
Update: There are no more front end noises, goes over bumps nice and quietly now.

 

[4pointslow]

I removed the air intake tube and put the pressure tester on again.
It's definitely the lower intake manifold gasket that is leaking, I watched the coolant coming right out and dripping down on the timing cover.
Worked on it until dark in my driveway and now it is down to the valve covers now.
Tomorrow I will remove the valve covers and then the intake manifold and get that new gasket in there.
Here is the best picture I could get of the leak, it's on the driver side front of the engine.

 

[96eb96]

LOL, I got purple power in the garage! That stuff is great.

There is also a product called "super clean" makes PP seem like water. It cost double PP but worth every penny.

 

[4pointslow]

Today (10-10-2020) I finished the lower intake gasket installation and got the used driver side valve cover installed.
No more coolant leak! I'm back to having 2 drivable vehicles out of 4.

Also along the way I installed the used throttle body I got off eBay. I still have a high idle issue, don't know why yet.
Might need to get the correct IAC motor. My TPS reading is .93 at idle and 4.50 at WOT so that looks good.
When all that was done I changed the oil again to make sure there wasn't any coolant in there etc.
The oil looked clean this time so I hope to go 3,000 miles on this oil and filter.
Also road tested and no more front end rattle, and I filed my tank and there is no gas smell or leaks! (from installing anti sway bar frame mount bushings and gas tank vent valve)

Engine with the lower intake manifold off. Looked pretty nasty in there. LOL

New lower intake gasket, and both valve covers installed.
Excessive use of Ultra Copper RTV, it's like my signature on engine work. LOL

 

[fast_dave]

@4pointslow

Permatex Ultra Copper RTV is God's gift to mechanics - I love it as well!

Interesting to see how the PCV/EGR side of your OHV engine runs hotter than the passenger side - same on mine.

TPS: If I remember correctly, I drilled out my TPS "mounting" holes (where the screws go through the TPS to mount it to the intake), experimented with different voltages, and settled on .98 - that resulted in my best "tip in" throttle response. Throttle response dropped off when I exceeded 1 volt.

Idle Speed Reference: My cold start idle is around 1,200 and as it warms up is steps down to settle on 600

Does you idle ever come down, or does it always stay high?

Have you ever carefully wacked the IAC with a piece of wood when your Ex is idling high?

Have you pulled the "black pill" on the outside of IAC, separated the base from the body, and cleaned the filter on the inside?

NOTE: Once you find a good IAC - there are all different quality ones - HITACHI is the OEM/Best - you need to keep it clean.

A LOT of oil fumes get pulled through the IAC.

 

[donalds]

That LITTLE black filter is easily cleaning in a ultra sonic cleaner

 

[96eb96]

Today (10-10-2020) I finished the lower intake gasket installation and got the used driver side valve cover installed.
No more coolant leak! I'm back to having 2 drivable vehicles out of 4.

Also along the way I installed the used throttle body I got off eBay. I still have a high idle issue, don't know why yet.
Might need to get the correct IAC motor. My TPS reading is .93 at idle and 4.50 at WOT so that looks good.
When all that was done I changed the oil again to make sure there wasn't any coolant in there etc.
The oil looked clean this time so I hope to go 3,000 miles on this oil and filter.
Also road tested and no more front end rattle, and I filed my tank and there is no gas smell or leaks! (from installing anti sway bar frame mount bushings and gas tank vent valve)

Engine with the lower intake manifold off. Looked pretty nasty in there. LOL
View attachment 322237

New lower intake gasket, and both valve covers installed.
Excessive use of Ultra Copper RTV, it's like my signature on engine work. LOL

View attachment 322238

Permatex has a new "Optimum" Product. I used the grey for this job. With the AL/Steel combo and the way things are mounted I thought it would be a better choice (probably anything would do though). Also used it to seal a lawn tractor transmission drive, which is a bit challenging.
700 degree stuff. I like it very much, it is very strong. I also use it to seal muffler seams. Very vulnerable area here. Even for SS mufflers.

Amazon.com: Permatex 27036 Optimum Grey Gasket Maker 3.35 oz, 1 Pack: Automotive

 

[4pointslow]

Permatex has a new "Optimum" Product. I used the grey for this job. With the AL/Steel combo and the way things are mounted I thought it would be a better choice (probably anything would do though). Also used it to seal a lawn tractor transmission drive, which is a bit challenging.
700 degree stuff. I like it very much, it is very strong. I also use it to seal muffler seams. Very vulnerable area here. Even for SS mufflers.

Amazon.com: Permatex 27036 Optimum Grey Gasket Maker 3.35 oz, 1 Pack: Automotive

That new Grey stuff looks awesome, same temperature specs and it looks better. I might switch in the future.

 

[4pointslow]

@Fastdave,

The vehicle had the wrong IAC on it when I got the truck. It had one from a SOHC engine.
The OHV one has different holes that are round, the SOHC one has trapezoidal holes.
The size of the IAC hole with the valve in it will effect the system as well.
Some one had installed the SOHC one on this OHV engine, LOL.
I had one in the garage with round holes that bolted up and helped a lot, but I just ordered the correct one from Advance Auto.
When it gets to my house I will install it and update this thread.

This information below is just some thoughts I wanted to jot down as my memory is not what it used to be and I might want to revisit these thoughts in the future.

Some of my thoughts on the high idle.
I was watching the IAC percentage along with desired RPM, RPM, TPS, TPS CT(what the PCM see's as closed throttle), O2 sensors, fuel trims and a bunch of other PIDS using the factory scan tool named IDS.
The IAC percentage was always dropping slowly to lower the RPM which indicates the RPM is too high.
Not setting codes, so within spec but that doesn't mean much. TPS is at .93 closed throttle and 4.5 WOT, and IAC down around 25% when given time to adjust/learn and bring the idle down to desired.
Spec for TPS is .53-1.27 at idle
Spec for IAC is 25%-36% duty cycle (on time) at idle
Normally the IAC has to jump up(closer to 36%) to keep idle where it should be, the opposite of what I was seeing.
If you see an IAC percentage above 36% you probably have a dirty throttle plate.
If you see an IAC percentage below 25% you probably have a vacuum leak.
If you have a vacuum leak the fuel trims are usually elevated at idle and not as bad at 2,000 rpm's (tested in park).
My fuel trims were about 7-8% at idle and dropped down to 0% (+ or -5% as they are moving) so there may be a very small vacuum leak or a wrong part installed.

I already adjusted the used throttle body I got off eBay. I adjust the plate closed until it starts to stick closed and then adjust it open until the sticking stops and give it a 1/4 turn or so more open. This got me the .93 TPS reading.
This gives you the most closed throttle that you can possibly have. (I have experience using a very large throttle body on my race truck, setting up oval single blade throttle bodies are the hardest, I now have a Ford Racing dual plate)
There are also tables in tuning software for IAC function but I am not doing any tuning on this vehicle.

There are factory installed vacuum leaks (for less of a better word) in a few systems on the vehicle.
The PCV valve, EGR solenoid, and Evaporative Purge Valve are the three main ones I can think of. Plus that one on the IAC valve(black cap).
So having the wrong parts could cause a higher than normal idle. If the hole under the black cap is larger on the IAC valve(I had in my garage) that I installed, then the idle would be higher so I ordered the correct one. I also installed a Motorcraft PCV valve to rule that out (the SOHC and OHV supposedly use the same PCV valve though).

So the EGR solenoid and the Purge valve can both have calibrated vacuum leaks built into them, again if the wrong ones were installed and they have bigger calibrated vacuum leak holes the idle would be higher. I will look into them to see if SOHC and OHV part numbers are different.

Then there are regular vacuum leaks like broken vacuum hoses etc. I will do a smoke test in the future when I can find the time.
I did have a vacuum leak when the purge valve was being commanded open due to the fact that the gas tank vent valve was broken.
That is fixed now and last I checked the readiness monitors were all completed except the cat and evap monitors so I will revisit them later.
Once all the monitors run and I have no codes, I will then install the check engine light bulb in my instrument cluster. (was missing when I bought the truck).

 

[96eb96]

@Fastdave,

The vehicle had the wrong IAC on it when I got the truck. It had one from a SOHC engine.
The OHV one has different holes that are round, the SOHC one has trapezoidal holes.
The size of the IAC hole with the valve in it will effect the system as well.
Some one had installed the SOHC one on this OHV engine, LOL.
I had one in the garage with round holes that bolted up and helped a lot, but I just ordered the correct one from Advance Auto.
When it gets to my house I will install it and update this thread.

This information below is just some thoughts I wanted to jot down as my memory is not what it used to be and I might want to revisit these thoughts in the future.

Some of my thoughts on the high idle.
I was watching the IAC percentage along with desired RPM, RPM, TPS, TPS CT(what the PCM see's as closed throttle), O2 sensors, fuel trims and a bunch of other PIDS using the factory scan tool named IDS.
The IAC percentage was always dropping slowly to lower the RPM which indicates the RPM is too high.
Not setting codes, so within spec but that doesn't mean much. TPS is at .93 closed throttle and 4.5 WOT, and IAC down around 25% when given time to adjust/learn and bring the idle down to desired.
Spec for TPS is .53-1.27 at idle
Spec for IAC is 25%-36% duty cycle (on time) at idle
Normally the IAC has to jump up(closer to 36%) to keep idle where it should be, the opposite of what I was seeing.
If you see an IAC percentage above 36% you probably have a dirty throttle plate.
If you see an IAC percentage below 25% you probably have a vacuum leak.
If you have a vacuum leak the fuel trims are usually elevated at idle and not as bad at 2,000 rpm's (tested in park).
My fuel trims were about 7-8% at idle and dropped down to 0% (+ or -5% as they are moving) so there may be a very small vacuum leak or a wrong part installed.

I already adjusted the used throttle body I got off eBay. I adjust the plate closed until it starts to stick closed and then adjust it open until the sticking stops and give it a 1/4 turn or so more open. This got me the .93 TPS reading.
This gives you the most closed throttle that you can possibly have. (I have experience using a very large throttle body on my race truck, setting up oval single blade throttle bodies are the hardest, I now have a Ford Racing dual plate)
There are also tables in tuning software for IAC function but I am not doing any tuning on this vehicle.

There are factory installed vacuum leaks (for less of a better word) in a few systems on the vehicle.
The PCV valve, EGR solenoid, and Evaporative Purge Valve are the three main ones I can think of. Plus that one on the IAC valve(black cap).
So having the wrong parts could cause a higher than normal idle. If the hole under the black cap is larger on the IAC valve(I had in my garage) that I installed, then the idle would be higher so I ordered the correct one. I also installed a Motorcraft PCV valve to rule that out (the SOHC and OHV supposedly use the same PCV valve though).

So the EGR solenoid and the Purge valve can both have calibrated vacuum leaks built into them, again if the wrong ones were installed and they have bigger calibrated vacuum leak holes the idle would be higher. I will look into them to see if SOHC and OHV part numbers are different.

Then there are regular vacuum leaks like broken vacuum hoses etc. I will do a smoke test in the future when I can find the time.
I did have a vacuum leak when the purge valve was being commanded open due to the fact that the gas tank vent valve was broken.
That is fixed now and last I checked the readiness monitors were all completed except the cat and evap monitors so I will revisit them later.
Once all the monitors run and I have no codes, I will then install the check engine light bulb in my instrument cluster. (was missing when I bought the truck).

Both banks have the same Fuel Trim? What is the BARO reading? How are the rubber upper plenum gaskets? They shouldn't be squashed flat.