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My 2000 Explorer 4 door XLT

I did get the interior all back together and verified that there are no more waters leaks raining into the passenger compartment.
In the future I may have the headliner replaced, and replace the carpet with a new one.
I was going to order carpet before I put it all back together but they have so many different shades of gray that I would have to have a couple swatches sent to me, and then order the correct one. Then I was questioning the quality of the new carpet (including its noise quieting capabilities).


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While I still had the headliner out I had the windshield replaced.
The old one was pretty bad on the passenger side, I hope no one was hurt when that happened.
Safelite Auto Glass replaced the windshield for me, very convenient when the vehicle is not drivable but you just have to have that new glass installed.

Before:
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After:

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The brake pedal pad was worn badly on this 2,000 Explorer, so I swapped it with the one from my 98 four door that is getting junked.
The worn pedal pad:

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The pedal pad from my 1998 four door:

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While I was under the dash I thought I would check for loose screws on the shifter cable bracket on the steering column.
I was glad I checked because one had started coming out. I have found this to be common on Explorers and Rangers.

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While swapping the door panels from my 98 four door to the 2,000 Explorer, I checked the power mirrors and found the driver side didn't work.
With the panel off it was plain to see why. Someone had installed a mirror with the wrong connector. The one from my 98 four door fit perfectly and worked 100%.

It wasn't plugged in.... because
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The difference in connector size was pretty obvious.

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I found that the gas tank skid plate was missing. The metal clips with the threads in them were on the truck to mount the skid plate but no skid plate.
This tells me that it probably used to have one. Maybe someone replaced the fuel pump and just didn't want to reinstall the skid plate.
I took the one off my 1998 4 door and installed it on the 2000 Explorer.

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Engine to Transmission Bolts

I found some engine to transmission bolts missing, and some where they didn't belong so they bottomed out before tightening up!
Again I pulled parts off my old 98 4 door.

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Thank god you still have the 98
Mmmmmmm parts
 






When I finally got around to looking at the PCM pids in datalogger, I found the vehicle running extremely lean.
Finally noticed the 4.0 OHV engine had been installed where the vehicle had a SOHC 4.0 from the factory.
This was causing about 40% fuel trims at Idle and 2,000 RPM's.
I replaced the PCM that had the stock tune for a SOHC in it, with a PCM that had the stock 4.0 OHV tune in it.
The vehicle runs much better, fuel trims were around 0% + or - 5% most of the time.
The vehicle has an exhaust leak at the driver side exhaust manifold and it is sucking air in before the O2 sensors. I will be addressing that in the future.

This is the PCM with the SOHC tune in it.
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This is the PCM with the OHV tune in it, that I bought off eBay and installed. It runs so much better now!

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I did have to do a parameter reset on the PATS module in the 2,000 Explorer for the module to play well with the used PCM I installed.
After doing the parameter reset the truck started and ran quite well off the PCM with the OHC tune in it.

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When I installed the rear axle seals and parking brakes, I had to remove this pin from the differential.
Of course it was broken and I had to use a pick to unscrew the longer piece out of the carrier.
I had a used pin in my stash of spare parts and used that upon reassembly.

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When I installed the rear axle seals and parking brakes, I had to remove this pin from the differential.
Of course it was broken and I had to use a pick to unscrew the longer piece out of the carrier.
I had a used pin in my stash of spare parts and used that upon reassembly.

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Hope they improved the paint on the dorman cover. Mine Rusted after a few rains :lol:. That was many years ago though. I have a transpan from them (with a drain, good idea!) with a shiny finish and it stayed black for many years.
When I installed the rear axle seals and parking brakes, I had to remove this pin from the differential.
Of course it was broken and I had to use a pick to unscrew the longer piece out of the carrier.
I had a used pin in my stash of spare parts and used that upon reassembly.

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What rear end ratio in that truck?
 






Hope they improved the paint on the dorman cover. Mine Rusted after a few rains :lol:. That was many years ago though. I have a transpan from them (with a drain, good idea!) with a shiny finish and it stayed black for many years.

What rear end ratio in that truck?

The ratio is 4.10 in both differentials.
LOL, I know what you mean about the differential cover rusting. I hope this one lasts too.
I will have to look at the one on my Ranger as I replaced that one as well, got to do parking brake cables and rear brake overhaul on that truck anyway. Want to get this 2000 Explorer drivable first though.
I installed one of those transmission pans on my Ranger too, LOL. So far so good with that one.
 






The TPS on this 2000 Explorer looked like something had taken bites out of it !!!! LOL
The one on my 1998 4 door Explorer had a different rotation so it could not be used.
I did have a 2003 Ranger TPS from an early supercharger setup I had on my 98 2 door, and the part number was the same so on it went.

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The ratio is 4.10 in both differentials.
LOL, I know what you mean about the differential cover rusting. I hope this one lasts too.
I will have to look at the one on my Ranger as I replaced that one as well, got to do parking brake cables and rear brake overhaul on that truck anyway. Want to get this 2000 Explorer drivable first though.
I installed one of those transmission pans on my Ranger too, LOL. So far so good with that one.
What do you think of the 4.10 and the OHV? Seems like it has decent power on takeoff but hates going over 65.
 






There was an exhaust leak on the driver side that I could not see, but I felt it around the exhaust manifold where the EGR tube attaches.
Couldn't tell if it was a blown manifold gasket or leaky tube.
Then there was the fact that after putting the correct PCM(for the OHV engine) in the truck, I had a P1408 (EGR flow out of self test range) and there was this clamp around the EGR valve that did not belong there. I checked the functionality of the EGR solenoid, and that was supplying vacuum during the KOER test like it should. Applying vacuum to the EGR valve had little to no effect on the way it ran.
I decided to replace the exhaust manifold, EGR valve, and both tubes to and from the EGR valve.
Once I got the exhaust manifold bolts out, I confirmed that the leak was from the EGR tube, and also found some other interesting damage.

The EGR tube fell apart as I removed the manifold from the engine. There was my exhaust leak.
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There was a hose clamp around the EGR valve itself, when I saw the bottom I knew why someone had put that clamp there. LOL
The bottom of the EGR valve rusted completely off the base !!!
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This is the tube from the EGR valve to the intake manifold. You can see that the green O-ring became distorted during its last installation.
This O-ring damage could cause vacuum leaks and a high Idle.
The new tube I bought came with a new green O-ring.

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Lol that's just a small little leak lmao
 






What do you think of the 4.10 and the OHV? Seems like it has decent power on takeoff but hates going over 65.

I have no opinion yet on this vehicle as I have only driven this vehicle around the block about 4 times. LOL
For all I know the transmission could be shot, lol.
I need to finish a lot of work on it to make it safe to drive, then I will start driving it to work.
 






Here is the hose clamp that was around the EGR valve holding it down (EGR in closed position).
Also while I was removing the exhaust manifold tonight, only one stud broke (but I replaced them all anyway), and the oil dipstick broke.
The oil dipstick had been glued back together and I bumped it and the plastic handle broke. The dipstick from my 98 4 door with SOHC was longer but the handle swapped over to the OHV dipstick and that fixed that problem.
The nut and the PCV valve in the picture below were under the intake manifold, which I have off to replace the valve covers.
I am currently waiting on the driver side valve cover, and the fitting that screws into the exhaust manifold where the EGR tube attaches.
Hope I don't have to wait too long for them!

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Here is the hose clamp that was around the EGR valve holding it down (EGR in closed position).
Also while I was removing the exhaust manifold tonight, only one stud broke (but I replaced them all anyway), and the oil dipstick broke.
The oil dipstick had been glued back together and I bumped it and the plastic handle broke. The dipstick from my 98 4 door with SOHC was longer but the handle swapped over to the OHV dipstick and that fixed that problem.
The nut and the PCV valve in the picture below were under the intake manifold, which I have off to replace the valve covers.
I am currently waiting on the driver side valve cover, and the fitting that screws into the exhaust manifold where the EGR tube attaches.
Hope I don't have to wait too long for them!

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Good you replace the EGR, some get subtle leaks thru the pintle.

Are you getting a brand new valve cover? I ended up getting a pair of used ones, derust with electrolysis, and painting them with a few coats. The passenger VC isn't available new, made a deal with a JY in PA, they shipped both to me.

I also got a nice set of reman injectors for like $50. He had tons of good reviews. The old ones looked scary rusty. I had an injector leak thru the body once 😨😨😨
 






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