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My 2000 XLT Explorer 4 Door

Are you running resistors or no? Lol main reason I ask is just for an FYI that you don't need to on the rear as long as you have all there bulbs up front.
 



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Are you running resistors or no? Lol main reason I ask is just for an FYI that you don't need to on the rear as long as you have all there bulbs up front.
Nope there is no need for resistors in my case
 






Today (9/16/2022), I installed the aluminum thermostat (Simons Autosports) that I had on my old blue Explorer, on this 2000 Explorer.
It has a 180-degree thermostat in it, factory is 195 but I have had better luck with the lower temperature ones (less leaks etc), and the heat still works fine in the winter.
While I was at it, I replaced the cooling fan with a Dorman one I bought from Advance Auto, it seemed to fit fine. The old fan had cracks all over it.
The other things I replaced were the two upper and one lower radiator hoses, bypass hose, and the heater hose on top of the thermostat housing.
I did remove the upper intake plenum to do the thermostat housing because it hangs right over the housing, also had to remove the alternator and bracket to unplug the crankshaft sensor and free up that harness that goes over the thermostat housing assembly.
This older design is definitely harder to work on than the newer one with the throttle body on the side like my 2004 was when it was stock.
 






3/29/2023
Since I got this truck, it has had a rattle in the front end when going over bumps. I had previously determined that it was the sway bar frame mount bushings. They come in different sizes so last weekend I measured the sway bar, and it was 34mm. I ordered the bushings last Saturday and they showed up today, so I installed them. I took it on a quick road test, and the noise is gone. My only regret is not doing them sooner, it is so much more pleasant to drive without that rattle.
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Prior to last Saturday, this Explorer had developed an ABS misfire. That is when the ABS activates when none of the wheels are really locking up. The result is decreased braking and sometimes a pull if the root cause is coming from the front on a 3-channel ABS system like these Explorers. The problem was intermittent, and seemed to happen when it was really cold outside. The vehicle would pull to the right when it was happening, so I knew the problem was coming from the left front wheel speed sensor readings. It would happen just as the vehicle was about to come to a stop.

The first thing I tried was unplugging and then reconnecting the left front wheel speed sensor back in. It did not help.
The next cold day it acted up again.
The old sensor was weak but still working because there were no codes for open circuits or anything like that. I unplugged it for a couple of days because it was making me nervous when it would act up. When there is an open circuit or unplugged sensor the ABS light will light up and the system will be deactivated. That is much better than experiencing an ABS misfire when you least expect it, in my opinion.

I had a brand-new sensor in my garage, so I searched for it last Saturday and installed it after locating it.
The problem has not returned so I am pretty sure it is fixed.

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/\ I got a set of those too when I ordered replacement sway bar links, really needed the links mainly so held off on installing those...but now that you mentioned the difference I'll probably bite the bullet and install them....I know...easy peasy ....no excuses....
 






/\ I got a set of those too when I ordered replacement sway bar links, really needed the links mainly so held off on installing those...but now that you mentioned the difference I'll probably bite the bullet and install them....I know...easy peasy ....no excuses....
Spray some penetrating lubricant through the holes in the frame before removing the two bolts on each side for these frame mount bushings. That has always saved me from headaches of stripped/damaged threads.
 






Yesterday (6/17/2023) I installed a front differential pinion seal. (Mileage 147,643)
This had been leaking for quite some time, and I had topped off the fluid once to keep it from self destructing .

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I used this factory pinion seal installer and it worked flawlessly. I obtained this tool when I put 4.88 gears in my supercharged 98 Explorer.
Ford's service manuals have a list of tools used to do certain things at the top of the procedures, so I search those tool numbers and find them on Ebay and other online places.

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New seal installed, I did clean the front differential with brake clean after this picture was taken.

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Mileage:

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Yesterday (6/17/2023) I installed a front differential pinion seal. (Mileage 147,643)
This had been leaking for quite some time, and I had topped off the fluid once to keep it from self destructing .



I used this factory pinion seal installer and it worked flawlessly. I obtained this tool when I put 4.88 gears in my supercharged 98 Explorer.
Ford's service manuals have a list of tools used to do certain things at the top of the procedures, so I search those tool numbers and find them on Ebay and other online places.



New seal installed, I did clean the front differential with brake clean after this picture was taken.

View attachment 442819

Mileage:

Mine seeps a bit too, not driven that much so I just check it every so often.

That rusty torsion bar could snap, Just FYI. Had to get replacements.
 






Today I had the day off and I drove to a nearby park and took a walk.
When I arrived back at my truck it would not start, it would not crank over at all.
The theft light was out so I knew it wasn't a PATS problem. Battery voltage seemed to be there as everything else worked and I made sure it was in Park all the way. I even tried Nuetral.
I tried about 24 times to start the thing and no response from the starter each time.

Having an emergency blanket in the back came in handy and I got the factory lug wrench and tapped the starter.
After getting back up I turned the key, and it started right up. I drove it right home and put it up on ramps and replaced the starter.
I had a used starter in the garage (that I bought off ebay) that was previously being used to test compression on an engine that was on my engine stand. The old starter was soaked in burnt gear oil and probably a little engine oil too.
The truck is starting every time now, so I am pretty sure that was the issue. I am sure glad I had the day off! LOL.

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New front brake pads and rotors installed on this truck back on May 18, on May 20th I took this picture to remember the mileage.
I was in a hurry, so I didn't take any pictures the day I did the brakes. I installed the coated rotors and semi metallic brake pads from Advance Auto.

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6/7/2024
Today when I came home from grocery shopping, my driver front window started making noise when at full stop bottom or top. It sounded like something stripped so I figured it was the little round plastic things in the window motor, or the regulator could have stripped like my old 2000 ranger did once. Being that it made the noise at top and bottom I was going with the plastic round things and that is what it turned out to be. The parts were 10.00 plus tax so I got two, so I have a spare set when the next window acts up. I got them from Autozone. The part number is 74410. I drove to AutoZone with the window motor out and the window stayed up the hole ride even though it was bumpy. The window motor was fairly easy to remove, I did it with the window up all the way and had to remove the door panel and speaker. There are three bolts but only two holes in the door sheet metal so you have to drill one hole where there is a recessed dimple. I used a 7/16 drill for the final size to be able to get my socket in there. Once the motor was out I had to remove the black cover that is held on with one screw and a little clip to get the metal gear off. I cleaned out the broken plastic bits and installed the new round things (window regulator gear plugs). After putting it back together I tested the window functions and it works without any noises or slipping now.

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