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My 2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 Supercab

CDW6212R

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Well done, those old seals were leaking too.
 


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4pointslow

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Can someone with a 2001 ranger with 4.0 sohc and 5R55E post picture of their dipstick tube showing the part number, and a picture of how high the transmission tube sits in the engine compartment.
Long story short I bought a new transmission tube and it is shorter than the one I have in my Ranger. I suspect the tube and dipstick have been swapped in mine or all the online OEM ford parts look up sites are messed up.

here is picture of mine, in the last picture you can see the transmission dipstick is as high as the oil fill cap(or higher) with the old one in place.

IMG_2194.JPG IMG_2191.JPG IMG_2229.JPG
 




vroomzoomboom

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for what its worth, that stick number is different then my 07 ranger, and a 02 sport i have here at the moment. both this 5r55e's inn them
 




4pointslow

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Can you post picture of stick and tube if you get time to snap a picture?
 




vroomzoomboom

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ranger

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explorer

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37241420_10155411543902513_1805486753818083328_n.jpg


sorry, thats the best i can do for a picture of the tubes
 




4pointslow

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Those pictures are perfect, thank you!

I am sure the dipstick tube and dipstick on my Ranger are from a different vehicle.
Maybe someone wanted the tube to sit higher so it was easier to fill and check,
after all someone did go through the trouble of putting a drain plug on the pan.

My other thought is that someone put a used transmission in and the tube and stick are from whatever vehicle it came out of.

Funny thing is I can not find anything on google for the stick number I have, and couldn't find a part number for the stock dipstick for my truck.
Only found tube number which is the short one I have that matches(in size and placement) both your trucks and my two 98 Explorers.
 




CDW6212R

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Those pictures are perfect, thank you!

I am sure the dipstick tube and dipstick on my Ranger are from a different vehicle.
Maybe someone wanted the tube to sit higher so it was easier to fill and check,
after all someone did go through the trouble of putting a drain plug on the pan.

My other thought is that someone put a used transmission in and the tube and stick are from whatever vehicle it came out of.

Funny thing is I can not find anything on google for the stick number I have, and couldn't find a part number for the stock dipstick for my truck.
Only found tube number which is the short one I have that matches(in size and placement) both your trucks and my two 98 Explorers.

If the dipsticks show the same lines-distance for the depth of the fluid fill, I'd use the longer one. I love the height in the Explorers, I'm used to older Fords where you have to hunt for the dipstick buried low in the back behind the intake.
 




4pointslow

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Since I can not find a part number for a 2001 Ranger dipstick, I ordered the XL2P-7A020-DA and will see if it works with the new tube I have.
This weekend, I am going to try to get to changing the transmission filter/fluid and install the new Dorman pan with drain plug.
 




4pointslow

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When I am on the throttle a little harder than usual, and the RPM's get in the upper area's, my alternator light comes on.
I will do some testing in the future to see what is causing this.

 




boominXplorer

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I have a trans dipstick with matching tube running around, let me know if you need it. It's the XL2P dipstick
 




4pointslow

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I think I am ok now with the dipstick now, but if not I will let you know.
What were they out of?

Thanks!
 




boominXplorer

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2002 explorer sport which shold be the same as all explorer 97+ 5r55e. Fully seated it sticks out about 7 and 3/16"

1532097712422-1392120596.jpg
 




4pointslow

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Wow, you even measured how much it sticks out, THANKS!
I am going to check into mine tomorrow and see how things go.
 




4pointslow

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Today I changed the transmission pan and fluid/filter.
The fluid looked real clean coming out.
I had to swap the magnet from the old pan to the new Dorman one.
Everything else seemed perfect.

Pulled the instrument cluster out to install LED bulbs today, I also took this opportunity to start installing a remote start / alarm system.
I am going with an old Code Alarm system, I have the same one in my two 1998 trucks and I like it so staying with it.
Currently the truck is all apart and I will be working on it as time permits, got to get it done before winter. LOL.

Location for remote start/alarm module

IMG_2296.JPG
IMG_2299.JPG
 




4pointslow

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Picture of amp I installed the other week, also added a picture of the 12inch JBL it's running.

amp 2.JPG


IMG_2303.JPG
 




4pointslow

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Wiring takes quite a bit of time for remote starts on older cars with no premade harnesses.
Then when you add new and old technologies together it takes even more time to make sure it will all work together. I am using an old Code Alarm system with a slightly newer Fortin key bypass unit.

After getting the first two main harnesses installed, I inserted a jumper wire across the starter interrupt circuit to make sure it still starts. In case of emergency I can still start run and drive the truck before finishing the install.

IMG_2304.JPG
IMG_2307.JPG
IMG_2311.JPG
 








CDW6212R

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How did you access the main wires, at the ignition switch?

I installed a remote starter in my 95 Crown Vic about 15 years ago. I first tried to plug the wires into a home made connector harness I made from a cut pigtail of another car. Those didn't connect securely, so I finally relented and carefully stripped the insulation back, and soldered to the main wires. That has worked well since I did that. But later I found "T" harnesses which can be bought for most cars. Those just plug in between the factory connector and the ignition switch, leaving a set of wires that are made to use for a remote starter or alarm.
 




4pointslow

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How did you access the main wires, at the ignition switch?

I used a couple T harnesses on my two 1998 Explorers, they are great!
Sad thing is I couldn't find them this time around, couldn't find one for my 2004 Ex either.
Pep Boys used to have them in stock, on the shelf. LOL. Man have times changed.

I took the connector cover off the back, the terminal lock off the face, slid a pin down the hole to unlock the terminal and pulled them out one at a time to solder to them.
I use a wire stripper to cut the insulation at two places and a razor blade to slice the insulation long ways, them pull that piece of insulation off.
Then I wrap the wire to be added around the clean uncut copper, then solder it with a 230 watt soldering iron.
After that I slip heat shrink around the wires from the terminal end (the reason I remove terminals from connectors) and push it up to the solder connection and heat it up with a grill lighter to shrink it. Sometimes I add a little electrical tape too.

The picture of the ignition switch is with all the wires added already, if you look close at one end you will see one wire with heat shrink sticking out.
All the others are hidden really well, and protected by that plastic back cover.

I am really very finicky when it comes to installing remote starts because I want to install them once and not have to mess with them again.
My two 1998's have about 10 years on them, no problems.

I am still working on the install, 3 days into it so far. May finish this weekend. LOL
 


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CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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Excellent. That's just how I soldered to my wires on the 95 CV, remove a section of insulation, solder to the unhurt wires. I don't think I used heat shrink though, I believe I left the terminals in place and made the splices back a few inches. It works though, I just hate to attach to original wires if possible. My 99 has about eight soldered splices in each door, for two relays each to control the windows. That took some thought, and a bunch of spare wiring terminals.
 




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