My 2004 Explorer

[Dono]

Fantastic job, it sucks that you had to do it while feeling crappy.
I see you even used ultra copper around your water pump. Do you use it on both sides of the gasket?

 

[2000StreetRod]

balance shaft chain tensioner

How did you replace the balance shaft chain tensioner without removing the block cradle?

 

[4pointslow]

Dono,
Yes, the water pump is a new one from pep boys and it came with a paper gasket so I RTV'd both sides. I should have ordered a Motorcraft water pump but didn't even think of it until I started taking things apart. Figured I might as well replace it since I was in there.

The gaskets that came off were a coated metal design from the factory.(timing cover and water pump). I was surprised that there was little clean up needed after removing them, they came off almost fully intact.

I got two Ford OEM timing cover gaskets off eBay, they were both metal. I did not use any sealant on the timing cover gasket since there was none when I removed the old ones. I did RTV the corners of the timing cover where it meets the block and oil pan though. If it leaks I will be pissed.

 

[4pointslow]

Balance shaft chain tensioner removal

How did you replace the balance shaft chain tensioner without removing the block cradle?

I only replaced the broken plastic piece, slides off the metal mount that bolts to the bottom of the balancer.
You have to remove the top plastic guide, the crankshaft woodruff key, then the gear on the crankshaft that the counter balance chain goes on, with the chain. Then you can get the broken pieces out.
Once the chain and broken tensioner pieces are out of the way you just slide the new one on the metal post. Then put the chain on.
I have heard of people bending the post but I didn't have to, the tensioner slid right in there. I did this on my 1998 4 door about 100,000 miles ago, probably time for another one on that truck.

 

[4pointslow]

Drivers side timing chain guide

The drivers side timing chain guide is real fun to remove on this 2005 engine with the head on. To get the old one out I carefully broke two of the three tabs(the upper and middle) on one of the plastic pieces to get it off the metal backing. (circled in picture)
With that out of the way I could see in there to see the piece that the lower bolt goes through hitting the head. I stuck a prybar down there behind it and bent the assembly just a little and it literally slid right out the top.

The new one dropped right in, didn't even put up a fight. It was the updated design that has a clip on the lower mounting hole, funny since you don't need to take it apart to get it in since it seems thinner.

 

[ANTHONY-GATLIN]

Drivers side timing chain guide

The drivers side timing chain guide is real fun to remove on this 2005 engine with the head on. To get the old one out I carefully broke two of the three tabs(the upper and middle) on one of the plastic pieces to get it off the metal backing. (circled in picture)
With that out of the way I could see in there to see the piece that the lower bolt goes through hitting the head. I stuck a prybar down there behind it and bent the assembly just a little and it literally slid right out the top.

The new one dropped right in, didn't even put up a fight. It was the updated design that has a clip on the lower mounting hole, funny since you don't need to take it apart to get it in since it seems thinner.

he I want to try this but I am a little afraid
do you have more photo on how to do ?

 

[4pointslow]

he I want to try this but I am a little afraid
do you have more photo on how to do ?

I wish I had more photos but when things get complicated I forget to take them.
To do any of the timing chain guide work you would need the tools for timing the engine, and the tool for removing the roller followers(rocker arms).
You have to remove all the followers before taking any timing components off.
The price of those tools make some people give up right there. I got mine used off eBay when I saw a good deal.

 

[4pointslow]

Yesterday I made little progress.
I was sick and couldn't do anything for two days, still coughing up a lung.
The coil bracket has two hidden bolts, I figured I would post the picture of those since you cant get to them or see them until after you get the big aluminum bracket out of the way.
The other pictures show the brackets that attach to the lower timing cover bolt studs, and two wire harnesses that go behind the big aluminum brackets attached to the front of the engine. Bottom picture is a close up of the two brackets on the drivers side lower timing cover bolt stud.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hi John, you've been busy with another truck. Well done, keep at it, I love the effort. I also like hearing that you like the Kenwood deck, I have two identical DIN 1 versions to put in my Lincoln and Ranchero(some day, or it's a spare). I have the Garmin module to use with it, though I've rarely needed a GPS.

 

[4pointslow]

Hi John, you've been busy with another truck. Well done, keep at it, I love the effort. I also like hearing that you like the Kenwood deck, I have two identical DIN 1 versions to put in my Lincoln and Ranchero(some day, or it's a spare). I have the Garmin module to use with it, though I've rarely needed a GPS.

Your lucky you don't need GPS, I cant find my way around the block with out it. lol

 

[CDW6212R]

Your lucky you don't need GPS, I cant find my way around the block with out it. lol

I'm just an older man who is used to finding my way even if it takes a while.

 

[4pointslow]

Sneak peak of what's to come.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool.

There needs to be a kit put together and get it multiplying to reach a lot more owners, who would do it if was easier.

 

[Joe in NY]

hmmm... you can no longer delete comments. My mistake!

 

[4pointslow]

Back to stock for now.

 

[4pointslow]

This lump in the bank 1 O2 sensor wiring has been bothering me. Time to fix it.

What is under there?

Time for some solder and heat shrink.

Maybe a little tape too, before putting the conduit back on.
I cant help but wonder if the same hack that put the engine in used these blue butt connectors in the engine compartment.

 

[4pointslow]

Temporary EGR Delete

I had to cut my EGR tube off to get a socket on the fitting and remove it from the exhaust manifold.
It was all seized up pretty good. I ordered a new tube off eBay and will be installing it eventually.
Right now the EGR tube is off and the holes are blocked off, but what do we do in the tune?
First step is shutting the EGR function off by changing the EGR switch to a 0.
Also saw this "master EGR disable switch" Changed that to a 1.
Note that the screenshot below is a stock tune. Also the instructions in the Advantage3 bottom window are for the EGR switch, not the Master EGR disable switch(there are none for the master EGR disable).
I am pretty sure that is all that is needed to turn the EGR function off, If I find out otherwise I will update this post.

Turning off EGR function does not turn off the OBD monitor that checks for correct EGR operation.
To do that you need to change "OBD test switch" and OBD Mil switch", they are located under the name "Chronometric" under OBDII.
To turn off a monitor you have to know it's binary to decimal number. Here is some info I got off the internet.

SCT shows the decimal number in Live Link.

The monitors are listed by Binary, see how the 1 is in a different posistion to designate each test.


__________________________________Binary = Decimal
bit 7: Misfire Monitor Test___________1000 0000 = 128
bit 6: EGR Test___________________0100 0000 = 64
bit 5: HEGO Test__________________0010 0000 = 32
bit 4: Closed Loop Fuel Test_________0001 0000 = 16
bit 3: Secondary Air________________0000 1000 = 8
bit 2: Purge Test___________________0000 0100 = 4
bit 1: Comprehensive Component Test_0000 0010 = 2
bit 0: CAT Test____________________0000 0001 = 1

So to turn off a monitor you take the numbers listed in your tune for OBD test switch and OBD Mil switch and subtract the decimal number for the monitor you want off.
Example:
My numbers were 247 which is a total of all the decimal numbers minus secondary air since my vehicle never had that system.
247 - 64(egr) = 183

I entered that number into OBD test switch and OBD Mil switch and now the PCM will not turn the check engine light on or even test to see if the EGR system is functioning.

Note that the instructions in the bottom window of Advantage3 say to change the number to 18, that would leave the fuel system and comprehensive component monitor on and turn everything else off. Those are two important monitors that you may not want to turn off.

Below is the stock tune with nothing changed.

 

[Joe in NY]

cool stuff. Where did you get the software and programmer to do all of this ?

 

[4pointslow]

The soft ware is from SCT which is now called Derive/SCT since they merged with Bully Dog.
The actual name of the software is AdvantageIII. (Proracer Package)
I am using an old XCaliber3 (X3) to load the tunes. (programmer)
I believe I bought the stuff from VMP tuning in 2008 if I recall correctly. Close to 800.00 for both and they were for my 98 which I now use an X4 on.
Had the 2004 tune strategy added to my access for a small fee

 

[4pointslow]

Went to the junkyard yesterday.
Got the spare tire carrier 12.00
Fan shroud 9.00
Then I found a Lincoln Aviator that had both spindles with calipers already off the vehicle. All I had to do was unplug the ABS sensors and they were mine.
Spindles 95.00
Calipers with Brackets 46.00
Later on I will get some new rotors/pads and install them. Just couldn't pass them up since they were already off the vehicle.