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My 2007 4.0 V6 Overheating Issue Is Still Present

JonaJones78

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April 25, 2018
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City, State
Alameda, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer XLT
I made a post earlier last week in regards to my overheating. I flushed out radiator, replaced radiator cap, thermostat, thermostat housing last week. It still overheated. Today, I replaced the fan clutch. I drove it around tonight and the problem has not went away. On a cold engine and if the heat is on, the temp gauge reads normal. When climate controls are off, temp gauge will read normal for a while, then it will creep up to 3/4 mark, back down to 1/2 mark, and back and forth between 3/4 and 1/2. However it will not read past 3/4. Whenever I turn on the A/C, then the temp will rise past 3/4 mark and all the way up to “H”. What the heck can it be? Could it be a bad water pump? I assume and hope it’s not a blown head gasket, cracked head or block. When I check the oil, it looks normal. No creamy appearance. So what the heck? Bad water pump? I’m tempted to replace water pump as my next move. What do you think
 



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Have you checked coolant temperature with an OBD II app while driving?
 






I made a post earlier last week in regards to my overheating. I flushed out radiator, replaced radiator cap, thermostat, thermostat housing last week. It still overheated. Today, I replaced the fan clutch. I drove it around tonight and the problem has not went away. On a cold engine and if the heat is on, the temp gauge reads normal. When climate controls are off, temp gauge will read normal for a while, then it will creep up to 3/4 mark, back down to 1/2 mark, and back and forth between 3/4 and 1/2. However it will not read past 3/4. Whenever I turn on the A/C, then the temp will rise past 3/4 mark and all the way up to “H”. What the heck can it be? Could it be a bad water pump? I assume and hope it’s not a blown head gasket, cracked head or block. When I check the oil, it looks normal. No creamy appearance. So what the heck? Bad water pump? I’m tempted to replace water pump as my next move. What do you think
I mean, it sounds like you replaced everything else. If you feel comfortable that it’s not a head gasket and what not.
 






You replace everything but the problem was not specifically identified. Throwing parts at a problem is not the recommended approach. There is no background here. When did it start assuming it was ok for some time having owned it for years.

Have you Burped the block??? This is a costless procedure. You need to get the air out of the system. Also as you've replace the T-stat was it a Motocraft or other, important since all OEM t-stat I have seen have a bleed hole in the collar which allows some air to pass out. But if there is a lot then Burping is mandatory unless there is a plug provided to bleed the block of air which I don't recall on the 4.0L.
 






Tripplec, the thermostat I recently replaced is NOT Motorcraft. It is from Autozone. It came came with thermostat housing assembly already attached inside. I never took a close look at it. I have never burped the cooling system at all.
This is my very first time troubleshooting via working on cooling system on my own.
 






I wonder if it was installed correctly from the manufacturer. At this point I would remove the thermostat and drive it.
 






As I expect you know the sensor end of the Stat goes into the engine!!! Assembled or just put into the package and housing may not be the same. I have seen in a few situations where the T-stat cannot be put upside down due to not enough space for the longer end.

Burping requires getting the front end up on a high slope. Angled driveway plus ramps usually does it and remove the rad cap (before its hot!!) and let if idle and run to full time given a quick pedal shot now and then to more quickly move the coolant. (Don't over rev etc,) Air usually finds the high spot and work its way out. Letting it cool right down and repeating may be required but not so sure on these blocks.
 






Just so you're aware almost all aftermarket T housings I've seen including the motorcraft ones are garbage. I originally ordered a dorman replacement on Amazon for $40, when it showed up it was such a joke I sent it right back (how I feel about most dorman parts) I opted to buy the motorcraft assembly and t stat. I was a happy camper for about a year when even the motorcraft part started leaking. I bought the steel or aluminum I don't remember what it's made of T star housing from simmonsautosportz.com. He has them available on eBay or his website for about $150. There are less expensive similar models on eBay but this one is made in the U.S.

After everything you've replaced I think about your only thing left is the water pump. You could go somewhere and have them flush your system with a machine so you know it's all cleaned out but if your coolant wasn't dirty
to start with I wouldn't necessarily think it was that. If it were me I'd start the car with the rad cap off. Remove radiator cap and warm up engine, have someone hold the throttle at 1500rpm and watch the coolant in the radiator. If it looks like it's flowing and somewhat turbulent than you know your pump is pushing coolant through. If you don't see the coolant moving than turn off, cool down, remove T stat and try again. This should help you determine if it's the pumpmor your tstat.
 






Just so you're aware almost all aftermarket T housings I've seen including the motorcraft ones are garbage. I originally ordered a dorman replacement on Amazon for $40, when it showed up it was such a joke I sent it right back (how I feel about most dorman parts) I opted to buy the motorcraft assembly and t stat. I was a happy camper for about a year when even the motorcraft part started leaking. I bought the steel or aluminum I don't remember what it's made of T star housing from simmonsautosportz.com. He has them available on eBay or his website for about $150. There are less expensive similar models on eBay but this one is made in the U.S.

After everything you've replaced I think about your only thing left is the water pump. You could go somewhere and have them flush your system with a machine so you know it's all cleaned out but if your coolant wasn't dirty
to start with I wouldn't necessarily think it was that. If it were me I'd start the car with the rad cap off. Remove radiator cap and warm up engine, have someone hold the throttle at 1500rpm and watch the coolant in the radiator. If it looks like it's flowing and somewhat turbulent than you know your pump is pushing coolant through. If you don't see the coolant moving than turn off, cool down, remove T stat and try again. This should help you determine if it's the pumpmor your tstat.
How long has your metal t stat been holding up?
 






I've only had it on for a month but I know this will do the trick. It doubles up on the gaskets too.
 






I've only had it on for a month but I know this will do the trick. It doubles up on the gaskets too.
Sweet! I assume you can change the gaskets and reuse the housing? I am thinking about buying one just to have on the shelf.
 






Sweet! I assume you can change the gaskets and reuse the housing? I am thinking about buying one just to have on the shelf.
It uses the two standard gaskets just like the OEM part and like the other plastic alternates. The metal housing also has two cork gaskets that support the original gaskets. The cork gasket that sits on the bottom of the housing I do question. It sits under the original rubber gasket instead of there being a section cut out to make two separate seals. So really, the bottom of the housing in my opinion only has one effective gasket. If the cork gasket fails you can always just use the standard rubber gasket by itself and some RTV around that if you want to double secure and make two barriers but probably the one would be fine. But overall the whole set up is very solid and I trust it more than any other aftermarket housing out there. The gaskets are all made by fel-pro,6 the cork gaskets were custom according to the seller, I imagine you could probably get extras from simmonsautosportz.com if need be.
 






I fought T-Stat fails and leaks for over a year. Went through 5 dormin in 6 months, 2 Plastic Motorcrafts in 2 years. Needless to say, it's been a battle hard fought. I read that Ford finally made a metal kit and I didn't wait for next failure, I bought and installed immediately. Comes with lower,upper,seals,temp sensor and bolts. Grab a new Motorcraft 190 Deg. T-Stat and a 20 lb iirc oem cap. I have 0 issues now, totally worth the 100 bucks. Here is link to Motorcraft metal housing, I got for 95 bucks delivered from rockauto.

Thermostat Assembly - Ford (RT-1220-) | OEMFORDPART
 






I fought T-Stat fails and leaks for over a year. Went through 5 dormin in 6 months, 2 Plastic Motorcrafts in 2 years. Needless to say, it's been a battle hard fought. I read that Ford finally made a metal kit and I didn't wait for next failure, I bought and installed immediately. Comes with lower,upper,seals,temp sensor and bolts. Grab a new Motorcraft 190 Deg. T-Stat and a 20 lb iirc oem cap. I have 0 issues now, totally worth the 100 bucks. Here is link to Motorcraft metal housing, I got for 95 bucks delivered from rockauto.

Thermostat Assembly - Ford (RT-1220-) | OEMFORDPART
Damn, I wish I would've know that ford made a metal housing, and for less that what I spent. Google is not as helpful in finding car parts as it use to be.
 












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