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My 21 ST build thread

I bleed Ford Blue

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I just purchased the quick lift struts and the jlt oil separator from amazon for my 21 ST. I have other mods I want to do as funds allow, like a resonator delete/h-pipe (yes they make one for the ST), the whipple intercooler, bigger direct injection pump, down pipes, bigger turbos, and a tune to run E-85. The bigger turbos are actually ported stock housings with bigger compressor and turbine wheels. They claim over 520 whp with the turbos and tune and 93 octane. With the bigger D.I. pump, whipple intercooler and E-85 I'm hoping for close to 600 whp eventually.
 
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Rick

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Sounds like a great build plan. Looking forward to seeing the results:chug:
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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I would like to change the gears in the front and rear to something around a 3.89-4.10 but I still need to do some research and find out exactly what differential housings I have front and rear. I think the rear is a super 8.8 like in the 15+ mustangs, but I'm not sure.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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The parts finally showed up yesterday, I got them installed today.

20210610_133743.jpg


20210610_133803.jpg
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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I ordered a UPR billet oil drain plug from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081D6RB2V/?tag=serious-20 Since the newer fords have a plastic oil pan and have the plastic drain plug that is a pain in the ass to remove without breaking something, a billet one does not need to be removed and replaced at every oil change.

Also I bought 5 tunes from 5 star and am currently running the 91 performance tune and it is a beast. If I do a brake stand to preload the tq convertor and overcome the turbo lag it will break the tires loose from a dig.
 
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94Eddie

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I ordered a UPR billet oil drain plug from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081D6RB2V/?tag=serious-20 Since the newer fords have a plastic oil pan and have the plastic drain plug that is a pain in the ass to remove without breaking something, a billet one does not need to be removed and replaced at every oil change.
Is there a reason for an automaker to use plastic oil pans other than saving cost and a little weight? I can't think of another reason myself. I can accept a plastic intake, even valve covers since they are not located on the underside of the vehicle where road debris can lay waste to a piece of plastic easily. Especially when off roading. Someone enlighten me on this trend to use plastic for things that my common sense tells me should be metal.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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Well plastic does absorb some noise, so there is that. But yeah it is mostly for cost/weight saving.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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Yesterday I took my ST in for an oil change mainly to have the billet drain valve I purchased installed.

Amazon product
While it was up on the lift, I got to take a good look at the underside. I'm kinda disappointed at ford for putting the front axle tube thru the oil pan. Why?
 
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Rick

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Yesterday I took my ST in for an oil change mainly to install the billet drain valve I purchased

Amazon product
While it was up on the lift, I got to take a good look at the underside. I'm kinda disappointed at ford for putting the front axle tube thru the oil pan. Why?

To keep the profile low.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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I get the profile part, but why couldn't they keep it on the outside and make the pan deeper elsewhere. There has got to be a better option than putting straight thru the oil pan.
 
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94Eddie

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Yesterday I took my ST in for an oil change mainly to have the billet drain valve I purchased installed.

While it was up on the lift, I got to take a good look at the underside. I'm kinda disappointed at ford for putting the front axle tube thru the oil pan. Why?
They likely didn't want to take the time and effort to engineer a better solution. Car makers these days don't seem to be too concerned with ease of repairing their products. Repair totaling for many of the new cars being sold these days will be off the charts once their value drops in about 10+ years and warranties aren't available. I guess this just guarantees more new car sales in the future?
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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Today I ordered a set of lowering springs and a larger adjustable rear sway bar from steeda. I've seen videos of the install on youtube and they are not complicated, I plan on doing the install myself as I have all the tools needed to do the job.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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The steeda lowering springs arrived today, the rear sway bar is backordered. Maybe this weekend I'll try to install the springs. Stay tuned
 
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Rick

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The steeda lowering springs arrived today, the rear sway bar is backordered. Maybe this weekend I'll try to install the springs. Stay tuned

I know there is video on Youtube, but if you document the installation with photos or video of your own and post a
"How to" thread here I will set you up with an Elite membership.:chug:
 
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themishmosh

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North Olmsted... Ohio?

In any case, the springs are very reasonable for a DIY. I wouldn't follow Steeda or the youtube video for the rears where there is mention to drop the subframe. After you remove the shock, you can remove the control arm bolt that will allow the knuckle to drop and then gently pry out the springs. Also, jacking up the front end is kind of a pain because there is no front jack point that will lift the entire front end.
 
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I bleed Ford Blue

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