HahnsB2
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- March 15, 2008
- Messages
- 781
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Battle Ground WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 88 Bronco II
Copied from my B2.org thread.
Well I dont have any pics of when I first got it because my comp had to be reformatted.
Heres the specs which I will try to keep up-to-date.
88 EB edition
2.9
FM146 5 speed
Manual 1354 swap
Warn manual Hubs
U-joint rear driveshaft
D35 front with Aussie locker and e-clip eliminator
7.5 Lock-right rear
4.10 gears
3" PA body lift
34x10.50 Swamper LTBs
Custom made bumpers front and rear
Rear sploder springs with overloads removed
Full 2 1/2" exhaust, flowmaster 40 series and a before tire exit that run between the frame and body so I cant smash it.
58mm throttle body
4.0 radiator
On board air using an AC pump
Half Doors for wheelin
2X100Watt off-road lights
Oil pressure, water temp and vacuum gauges added
Heres right after I put the wheels and tires and brush guard from my parts rig on it, last spring break.
Heres a pic of me on that same rock pile with snow.
Had to add this. See my sweet windshield crack?
I made onboard air for free with **** I had laying around!
Next came the 3" body lift and tires.
Body lift gap fix.
The I finally settled on an exhaust I like and one that i cant smash. Flowmaster 40, no cat (I have hi flow im gonna install) full 2 1/2" pipe and a 12" long 3" tip.
I have done many more things to it, I just dont have many pics...
Installed the rear 4.10 LS axle tonight, took it for a test drive and it feels like a rocket compared to what it used to!!! It also got rid of the terrible drivetrain slop it had. I hope to get the front in by sunday but I dunno.
Only pic I got.
Well still havent got the damn 4.10 TTB in yet
Weathers been crappy on my days off and the days I work its been nice (like right now). Ive only ben able to do small projects. I pulled the crappy non a/c rad out and slapped in a good auto w/ac rad thats twice as big and flushed the cooling system, hopefully it wont get over 200* anymore up in the woods. I also pulled my grill, masked it and painted the center portion gloss black. It lookin like the ttb wont be in till after spring break is over because I work all but 3 days of it and the 3 days im not worin ill be in newport
My Lock-Right arrived today! Cant wait to put it in! Thanks Todd!
Well as I pormised, the 4.10 ttb went in today and we managed to get the lockright in too, what a *****!!! Had to swap in an open carrier to use it, had to grind down the ring gear to get the full crosspin in, the notched 4.10 crosspin wouldnt allow us to put the c-clips on with the lock right because it didnt allow the spacers to move inwards, so out came the dremel and in the went the stronger un-notched crosspin.
I took it for a quick drive, couldnt feel or hear it click, deffinalty pulls to one side after you let off and give it gas but its only for a second and according to the booklet its normal, deffinalty wants to go straight if ya give 'er gas while makin a sharp turn, all in all it seems pretty damn streetable, im impressed! Of course its dry right now, it could be another story when its wet...
Out with the old 3.45s, Took about an hour to remove, not bad...
In with the 4.10s! took about 2 hours after swaping camber bushings, brake rotors and bearings.
Dad grinding on the ring gear, note the tape everywhere to minimize metal shavings in the diff.
Lock-Right in! Total time spent on the locker was about 8 hours! Who needs spider gears?!?!
I put the 4.0 radiator in today with some free time I had. I got the rad from Brian, its from the Danger Ranger.
Heres a pic comparing it to my old radiator from a 2.9 auto which is twice as thick as a 2.9 manual! So in short, the 4.0 auto rad is 4 times thicker than a 2.9 manual!
Heres it is installed, hopefully this means cool running for the 2.9.
Picked this up from Joe (BRONCMAN) this morning, and I installed it before I went to work, its pretty stout and fits very well. I had to do some minor grinding at the end of the frame. Its also made a for a 2" body lift, so it sits up like it should and the gap is much less.
Well I finally grabbed a door from the parts rig and started cuting it down today for half doors. I didnt get too carried away but I took a good 8"s out if it, I just cut then folded it over and welded it. I then too some of that black plastic trm stuff and put it over the the area I cut so I dont cut myself ( I already cut my finger before I put it on, damnit). I also slapped on an extra flag mirror to keep it "legal". I think Ill paint em black when Im done or blue if I can find a close match to my paint in a rattle can.
Finished chopping the other door. Now I just need to get another thing of that plastic trim and some spray paint and they'll be ready to slap on for some wheelin. Not sure how Im gonna work around the fact that my doors have power windows and locks so trying to snake the wires through the fenders is going to be a *****, maybe a coathanger would work?
Here they are on the rig. They dont appear to be cut a whole lot but theres enough of a cut out to lean out just fine.
Well I started work on this bad boy! I added 4" c channel to my Smittybilt push bar and ditched the stock bumper, still lots of work to do like add metal on the top, d-rings, finish the ends, ect. Im happy with it so far :thumby:
I added some aluminum diamond plate to the top for now, not sure if Im gonna keep it or go with steel...
Well I bought some d-rings today for it. I went down to the shop again after school today and started welding on it and reinforcing it and added the d-rings on. Only real thing left to do now is finish the ends and the front pie shaped piece that will blend the inner and outer pieces together. I like how my welds turned out, too much spatter but changing wire speed wouldnt solve the problem so I just kept welding, it seemed to have good penetration.
I used some square tubing to help reinforce the outer pieces.
D-rings welded on.
Heres a shot of the brace again.
Here it is installed.
Well I did a lil more work today. Added the angled pieces that tie the ends into the center section and used a blending wheel to make it pretty smooth. I also capped off the ends of the c channel. I just need to beef up the mounts and get some bedlinder on it!
Thanks Pat! I plan on beefing it up soon before any major pulls happen. I bought some Duplicolor spray on bedliner today and sprayed it. I like the way it turned out! I still need to beef up the mounts soon but at least its protected from the weather now! I left the diamond plate bare, Im gonnaa see how I like it in the long run, if I end up not liking it Ill coat it too.
Well I started work on the spare tire carrier. I plan to make a hi lift mount too and possibly a jerry can mount. I just need to cap the tubes, weld on the latch and bed liner it.
Well the tire carrier is pretty much done now, its nothing fancy like the piece of art BRONCMAN made, I just needed somethin functional for now, I bed linered it and the bumper I got from BRONCMAN, the only tweeking it needs it that I need to cut the mount and extend it a couple inches so the tire fits without contacting the tubing, Once I get a chance that'll take all of 10 minutes. I still plan on making a hi lift mount but since I dont own a hi lift right now, Ill wait till that time comes.
D35 out and apart, notice mikly gear oil :eek13:
Beam pressure washed and wire wheeled.
Letting the torch work alone on the radius arm bolts.
Aussie in, notice the rusty spot on the carrier, I'm sure it has something to do with the mikly gear oil, I'm not worried though, my original 7.5 had rust halfway up the inside of the diff and the ring gear was all pitted when I got it but it never gave me any trouble.
E clip eliminator spring.
D35 in.
Fawk you spider gears!
Sticker
Poser shot.
Put the manual 1354 in today after work, it was 99* outside. I had to put on the small lever from the 1350 because I'm not using an M5OD yet and the one on it was bent for the M5OD linkage, then in low range the linkage hit the driveshaft yoke/cardan joint, and had to be heavily clearanced with a grinder.
I took her down on my lower property to test 4x4 and everything seems well, the Aussie is silent, you get some pull on the wheel when you turn that tries to straighten out but it's really not bad at all.
Only pic I got was me tightening the flange on the rear since it was loose, I put the yoke in the vice to keep it still. And yeah it appears the output seal leaks but whatever, I just wanna wheel.
4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.
Some fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front
. I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.
Got my winch mounted up. Needs more welds on the back side but I ran outta wire. I also added large mounting plates that bolt to the side of the frame rails instead of the wimpy tabs that bolt in the stock location.
My welder.
I'm probably going to mount my lights up top like Ron did.
Thanks
I bought some FelPro intake manifold and valve cover gaskets for the 4.0 before I put it in, hopefully get started on the swap next weekend!
I bought myself a HiLift. Here's a pic of testing it out.
Here's how it's "mounted", untill I build a new rear tire gate, I was never really happy with the one I built (mainly the pivot part), it'll have a mount for the hi lift and a jerry can.
Random flex pic.
Well I dont have any pics of when I first got it because my comp had to be reformatted.
Heres the specs which I will try to keep up-to-date.
88 EB edition
2.9
FM146 5 speed
Manual 1354 swap
Warn manual Hubs
U-joint rear driveshaft
D35 front with Aussie locker and e-clip eliminator
7.5 Lock-right rear
4.10 gears
3" PA body lift
34x10.50 Swamper LTBs
Custom made bumpers front and rear
Rear sploder springs with overloads removed
Full 2 1/2" exhaust, flowmaster 40 series and a before tire exit that run between the frame and body so I cant smash it.
58mm throttle body
4.0 radiator
On board air using an AC pump
Half Doors for wheelin
2X100Watt off-road lights
Oil pressure, water temp and vacuum gauges added
Heres right after I put the wheels and tires and brush guard from my parts rig on it, last spring break.
Heres a pic of me on that same rock pile with snow.
Had to add this. See my sweet windshield crack?
I made onboard air for free with **** I had laying around!
Next came the 3" body lift and tires.
Body lift gap fix.
The I finally settled on an exhaust I like and one that i cant smash. Flowmaster 40, no cat (I have hi flow im gonna install) full 2 1/2" pipe and a 12" long 3" tip.
I have done many more things to it, I just dont have many pics...
Installed the rear 4.10 LS axle tonight, took it for a test drive and it feels like a rocket compared to what it used to!!! It also got rid of the terrible drivetrain slop it had. I hope to get the front in by sunday but I dunno.
Only pic I got.
Well still havent got the damn 4.10 TTB in yet
Weathers been crappy on my days off and the days I work its been nice (like right now). Ive only ben able to do small projects. I pulled the crappy non a/c rad out and slapped in a good auto w/ac rad thats twice as big and flushed the cooling system, hopefully it wont get over 200* anymore up in the woods. I also pulled my grill, masked it and painted the center portion gloss black. It lookin like the ttb wont be in till after spring break is over because I work all but 3 days of it and the 3 days im not worin ill be in newport
My Lock-Right arrived today! Cant wait to put it in! Thanks Todd!
Well as I pormised, the 4.10 ttb went in today and we managed to get the lockright in too, what a *****!!! Had to swap in an open carrier to use it, had to grind down the ring gear to get the full crosspin in, the notched 4.10 crosspin wouldnt allow us to put the c-clips on with the lock right because it didnt allow the spacers to move inwards, so out came the dremel and in the went the stronger un-notched crosspin.
I took it for a quick drive, couldnt feel or hear it click, deffinalty pulls to one side after you let off and give it gas but its only for a second and according to the booklet its normal, deffinalty wants to go straight if ya give 'er gas while makin a sharp turn, all in all it seems pretty damn streetable, im impressed! Of course its dry right now, it could be another story when its wet...
Out with the old 3.45s, Took about an hour to remove, not bad...
In with the 4.10s! took about 2 hours after swaping camber bushings, brake rotors and bearings.
Dad grinding on the ring gear, note the tape everywhere to minimize metal shavings in the diff.
Lock-Right in! Total time spent on the locker was about 8 hours! Who needs spider gears?!?!
I put the 4.0 radiator in today with some free time I had. I got the rad from Brian, its from the Danger Ranger.
Heres a pic comparing it to my old radiator from a 2.9 auto which is twice as thick as a 2.9 manual! So in short, the 4.0 auto rad is 4 times thicker than a 2.9 manual!
Heres it is installed, hopefully this means cool running for the 2.9.
Picked this up from Joe (BRONCMAN) this morning, and I installed it before I went to work, its pretty stout and fits very well. I had to do some minor grinding at the end of the frame. Its also made a for a 2" body lift, so it sits up like it should and the gap is much less.
Well I finally grabbed a door from the parts rig and started cuting it down today for half doors. I didnt get too carried away but I took a good 8"s out if it, I just cut then folded it over and welded it. I then too some of that black plastic trm stuff and put it over the the area I cut so I dont cut myself ( I already cut my finger before I put it on, damnit). I also slapped on an extra flag mirror to keep it "legal". I think Ill paint em black when Im done or blue if I can find a close match to my paint in a rattle can.
Finished chopping the other door. Now I just need to get another thing of that plastic trim and some spray paint and they'll be ready to slap on for some wheelin. Not sure how Im gonna work around the fact that my doors have power windows and locks so trying to snake the wires through the fenders is going to be a *****, maybe a coathanger would work?
Here they are on the rig. They dont appear to be cut a whole lot but theres enough of a cut out to lean out just fine.
Well I started work on this bad boy! I added 4" c channel to my Smittybilt push bar and ditched the stock bumper, still lots of work to do like add metal on the top, d-rings, finish the ends, ect. Im happy with it so far :thumby:
I added some aluminum diamond plate to the top for now, not sure if Im gonna keep it or go with steel...
Well I bought some d-rings today for it. I went down to the shop again after school today and started welding on it and reinforcing it and added the d-rings on. Only real thing left to do now is finish the ends and the front pie shaped piece that will blend the inner and outer pieces together. I like how my welds turned out, too much spatter but changing wire speed wouldnt solve the problem so I just kept welding, it seemed to have good penetration.
I used some square tubing to help reinforce the outer pieces.
D-rings welded on.
Heres a shot of the brace again.
Here it is installed.
Well I did a lil more work today. Added the angled pieces that tie the ends into the center section and used a blending wheel to make it pretty smooth. I also capped off the ends of the c channel. I just need to beef up the mounts and get some bedlinder on it!
Thanks Pat! I plan on beefing it up soon before any major pulls happen. I bought some Duplicolor spray on bedliner today and sprayed it. I like the way it turned out! I still need to beef up the mounts soon but at least its protected from the weather now! I left the diamond plate bare, Im gonnaa see how I like it in the long run, if I end up not liking it Ill coat it too.
Well I started work on the spare tire carrier. I plan to make a hi lift mount too and possibly a jerry can mount. I just need to cap the tubes, weld on the latch and bed liner it.
Well the tire carrier is pretty much done now, its nothing fancy like the piece of art BRONCMAN made, I just needed somethin functional for now, I bed linered it and the bumper I got from BRONCMAN, the only tweeking it needs it that I need to cut the mount and extend it a couple inches so the tire fits without contacting the tubing, Once I get a chance that'll take all of 10 minutes. I still plan on making a hi lift mount but since I dont own a hi lift right now, Ill wait till that time comes.
D35 out and apart, notice mikly gear oil :eek13:
Beam pressure washed and wire wheeled.
Letting the torch work alone on the radius arm bolts.
Aussie in, notice the rusty spot on the carrier, I'm sure it has something to do with the mikly gear oil, I'm not worried though, my original 7.5 had rust halfway up the inside of the diff and the ring gear was all pitted when I got it but it never gave me any trouble.
E clip eliminator spring.
D35 in.
Fawk you spider gears!
Sticker
Poser shot.
Put the manual 1354 in today after work, it was 99* outside. I had to put on the small lever from the 1350 because I'm not using an M5OD yet and the one on it was bent for the M5OD linkage, then in low range the linkage hit the driveshaft yoke/cardan joint, and had to be heavily clearanced with a grinder.
I took her down on my lower property to test 4x4 and everything seems well, the Aussie is silent, you get some pull on the wheel when you turn that tries to straighten out but it's really not bad at all.
Only pic I got was me tightening the flange on the rear since it was loose, I put the yoke in the vice to keep it still. And yeah it appears the output seal leaks but whatever, I just wanna wheel.
4Wheel parts had everything 10% off so I went down to the store today, 34X10.5 LTBs, came to $600 even and that included the no questions asked warranty and shipping for the other 2 tires from seattle which should hit my house on wednesday. The front fenders are gonna take trimming.
Some fender trimmage. Just like I thought, only had to trim the forward and rear openings on the front, the rears have like 1/2" of clearence on either side of the tires when stuffed. They don't even hit the radius arms at full lock on the front
. I want to extend the bumper a bit to fill in the spot where I cut.
Got my winch mounted up. Needs more welds on the back side but I ran outta wire. I also added large mounting plates that bolt to the side of the frame rails instead of the wimpy tabs that bolt in the stock location.
My welder.
I'm probably going to mount my lights up top like Ron did.
Thanks
I bought some FelPro intake manifold and valve cover gaskets for the 4.0 before I put it in, hopefully get started on the swap next weekend!
I bought myself a HiLift. Here's a pic of testing it out.
Here's how it's "mounted", untill I build a new rear tire gate, I was never really happy with the one I built (mainly the pivot part), it'll have a mount for the hi lift and a jerry can.
Random flex pic.
