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My '94 extended cab

Xeek

Elite Explorer
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City, State
Virginia Beach, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 xlt
1994 extended cab, 2wd, 3.08 gears:)( !!!!!!), power windows/locks/mirrors, tilt and cruise control, stock 16" wheels from newer rangers with stock tires, grey interior, brand new headlights, brand new radiator, new water pump.
this will be my dd, but i would like to just make it a little nicer.

EXTERIOR
depo clear corners with amber bulbs
custom dent and paint on passenger side
5th gen? ranger stock alloy 16" wheels with 235/65R16 tires.
faded grey trim on bumpers and grille painted black

INTERIOR
grey suede headliner
2nd gen exploder grey OHC
1st gen exploder lighted vanity double visors
bucket seats with shorty center console
leds in dome light and exploder OHC

MOTOR
stock 4.0l and a4ld at 180k for now
removed stock 2" exhaust! replaced with short 2.25: pipe and 18" cherrybomb glasspack(painted to match truck) dumped just after the cab


SUSPENSION
'99 exploder 8.8, discs, 3.73s, aussie locker
stock front end


FOR THE FUTURE:
paint work for fading and from the ex-cab dent.
newer badges from like the 05-08 years
built 4.0; 422 cam, heat wrapped jba headers, 93tm heads, hf oil pump, custom intake


as i got it...
IMG_20120712_174602.jpg

IMG_20120712_175318.jpg

IMG_20120712_175250.jpg

IMG_20120712_174710.jpg

IMG_20120712_174821.jpg

IMG_20120712_174736.jpg

IMG_20120712_174837.jpg
 


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jd4242

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va beach
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92explorer&94 ranger
I see a Rallys cup in there;)i like it for a dd street truck;)
 




Xeek

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1991 xlt
Lol yea I went with a few friends after I picked it up. :)
Yea I'm very happy with it. Cheap for what I got. It was the guys first vehicle, I showed up knowing all about the 4.0 and tranny etc. I said I'd take care of it and fix it up a little so he was happy it was going to me.
 




Xeek

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im starting to think i may need new cats. jd brought it to my attention. i thought it was a small fuel leak or the gas can i had in the back making a rich smell. but along with the spuddering taking off, which i thought was just 3.08s, it makes more sense to be the cats.
i was only planning on doing a cat back system at some point, i guess im doing a y-pipe-back system lol
 




Anime

EF YEAH!!
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If you need new cats, it might make more sense to just get a single universal 3-way welded on. You can keep the stock Y-pipe (good thing too, they are expensive even for the cruddy crush-bent aftermarket ones) and maybe just replace the O2 sensors if they got messed up from a too-rich condition. You might consider replacing the muffler with a 2.25-2.5" Thrush turbo (just $20-25) from Advance while you're at it.

You could also just get new front clear corners to go with the new headlights instead of replacing the busted one with another amber unit, they are on ebay all the time and fairly cheap. You might have to keep an eye out for a decent fluted pair though.

I'd unplug the capacitor NOW. A loose cap is dangerous!!

Don't even need all that anyway, sell it like you said, and just power the speakers with the HU. If it's got speakers with high power handling (doubt it) sell those too and just get replacement Pioneers or something decent.

The passenger side dent actually looks pullable. Probably even less work with the interor panel out if access is good. Might need some body filler to look it's best, but it'd be decent even just getting rid of the dent and buffing out the paint marks.
 




Xeek

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im still considering what to do for the exhaust. its not a priority.

the light i really may just get a junkyard one, cause im thinking of doing the smoked headlights/corners and led taillights. then selling my new headlights.

loose cap? i know nothing of sound systems. i kinda wanna get rid of the stuff just so its not all in the way back there lol. or atleast if i kept the amp, mount it on the back wall and tuck the wires so i dont have to deal with that mess. the guy had a speaker box back there with some subs in it, he was taking it out as i pulled up, so im guessing thats why its such a mess.

id have to get a few quotes on the dent, if its not, a new panel is $70. and honestly the whole truck could use a paint job anyway
 




Anime

EF YEAH!!
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Clogged cats can cause other damage, so it should be a priority before it causes other issues that might bring up an engine swap sooner than you would like.

The smoked corners are cheap on ebay too. I don't think the smoked lights are that good, since the quality is usually low and the smoked reflectors don't reflect as much light. I think the new lights, especially if they are OEM Ford, are a good choice.

Capacitors store energy. So when a cap is connected, it stores a whole bunch of electrical power. A lot. If anything comes in contact with those terminals on the cap, it can cause an explosion. That's why a loose cap is bad. It shouldn't be rolling around in the back. The seatbelt, the amp, even the rear brackets of the seat could all make contact with it, especially if you hit the brakes hard and sent it flying. Don't risk it. I say disconnect the power cable at the battery, and pull the cap now (you might want to give it an hour or more to discharge before actually taking the power cables off the cap itself). Re-attach the cables to the amp if you want, but you don't even need a cap for a small system. If the amp/cap isn't hooked up to the battery, then it's not a risk.

I prefer pulling dents to welding in patch panels. I've yet to see any shop actually tack weld the entire panel, usually they just do a few tack welds and put body filler over the rest, which of course results in cracks down the road. You'll pay out the wazoo for someone else to fully tack weld a new panel. You can do it yourself with a flux-core MIG over a period of days and get better results. But I'd still only go that way if pulling doesn't leave you with a decent result you think will look good with body filler.
 




Xeek

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yea i saw an issue with it having exposed terminals. and on top of that there was an unused + and - cable just loose hanging off of it. it was a direct line from the battery, 0 gauge wire directly to the capacitor with a 250a mega fuse. then split into two looms, one for the amp and another that was just loose. im guessing it was hooked up before he took out his sub box. or he had two amps, one just for the speakers in the sub box?

capacitor and amp are removed, and i had loads of fun re-wiring the radio...
and the carpet was removed. sprayed it with carpet cleaner, lightly misted the pressure washer over the carpet to get the soap deep inside. let it sit for an hour then sprayed it til no more soap came out. looks pretty good now. just gonna let it bake in the sun for a few days on the roof of my exploder. drive without carpet during then.

as far as the body work. that panels gonna be like that for a long time. its not something im concerned about since its gonna take a good amount of time and money.

i will look into something for the cat tho.
 








mr cribb

US Army Retired
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94 Chevy Z71, 93 X EB
What made you sell the one ton?
 




Anime

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Probably the repair estimate.
 








mr cribb

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ahhh, I see. That looked like fun until the end.
 








mr cribb

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lol. pretty much. it was sad, but im glad its gone. that truck never gave me anything but problems. it was always something deciding to not work or break, every week.

yeah that sucks, I've had a few rides like that in the past.
 




Xeek

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i cleaned the carpet the other day. i didnt get an after pic, but the whole carpet looks as grey as the ring around the tranny hump hole. besides a few sun fades and rust color around a few of the seat bolt holes

this was before:
IMG_20120715_135106.jpg
 








Xeek

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im gonna go ahead and get a few things i need to get my train horns in service again and put it in the ranger. so.. i was thinking an aux fuse box.

one of these. prob the 6 slot with ground.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...151&partNumber=3733490&langId=-1#.UAiOk0e5PzE

i wanna use the big wire from the amp to run from the battery to the fuse box, i think its 0g? and i have one of these 250a mega fuses also(http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2082/1762/5203380583_large.jpg). the air compressor runs off a 30 or 35amp fuse, and the override switch for the air valve is 15amp. so 45-50amps total worth of stuff inside the aux fuse box. i wouldnt doubt id add more stuff in the future but will i be fine with a 250a fuse on the main wire provided the two accessories i run have their own fuses?
 






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Anime

EF YEAH!!
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Ehhh I was wondering if you'd wind up getting crystal clears rather than finding a fluted pair. I think the crystal corner/fluted headlight deal looks kind of weird, but it's better than a busted one.

You can use just about any fuse on the main wire to the secondary box, just make sure it's at least rated the same as all the fuses for what's running off it combined, plus a little more for extra headroom so you aren't blowing fuses if you use them all at once. Mostly you just want the protection to keep the wiring from ever getting fried.
 




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