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Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
green ex.jpg
Lowered Rear.jpg
Exploder wheelie.jpg

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I weighed in at 4380 today.
My times were....
Time trial 1 = 13.13
Time trial 2 = 13.183
Time trial 3 = 13.267
Elimination 1 = 13.241
Elimination 2 = 13.251
Elimination 3 = 13.21
Elimination 4 = 13.255
Elimination 5 = 13.246

My dial in time I choose was 13.20

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I weighed in at 4380 today.

you need to lay off the chick-fill-a!

something doesnt make sense. i thought you were lighter then that. the last time i weighed my truck it was 4340 without me in it,

you need to lay off the chick-fill-a

That's for sure! LOL

My last weigh in was 4410 in May. Since then I added a driveshaft loop but removed some more things like the rear seat belts, factory amp, and the Fuel Tank skid plate. That's why it's down to 3380.

I still have those step bars (25 lbs each) and the rear seats (25 lbs each) that I could remove. That would total 100lbs.

Safeguard Vampire

To add a blower to the 4.6L V8 I'll have to use the 2003-2004 Cobra lower intake manifold. That means grinding down the bosses for the two knock sensors in the block valley between the heads. The Cobra cast iron blocks came that way. I assume you have the Safeguard 1004-Vanguard since its compatible with waste spark systems. It is also compatible with the COP ignition systems. How many sensors did you install and where? It appears to have individual control of each cylinder for COP. From your photos it looks like you have six wires (one for each cylinder) connected to the unit but with a waste spark system you only have three coils. Is there any difference in the spark retard for different coils when detonation is detected? Are you satisfied with its performance?

J&S Safeguard Vampire

I am using the stock knock sensor mounted in the stock location. I am also using the PCM and the Vampire in conjunction, that enables me to still datalog detonation like I have in the past but also have the Vampire to help protect the engine and light the knock gauge up so I know it is happening.

I am pleased with it's performance, it has saved me a few times when I forgot to turn on the intercooler pump and fan, and when I forgot to turn on the water methanol system.

I am tied into the three ground wires for the coils in the coil pack, then the factory knock sensor, and power and ground. There are more wires like the one for nitrous input (only retards 2-4 degrees) but I am not using them at this time.
The per cylinder timing retard does not work on my coil pack set up, but it does on the COP systems. The gauge for the individual cylinder control cost more too.
The gauge works off the 1/8 inch phono jack on my setup. (power,ground,and signals)

I'm looking seriously at this now also (for obvious reasons :( )

4pointslow, do you have the 4 channel Vampire ?

I emailed J&S asking about the number of channels required in the Vampire system. It would make sense to me that all us v8 guys would need is the 4 channel system as we only have 4 pcm leads to our coil packs due to the waste spark system.

I'll edit this post when I have the answer.

edit: John from J&S tells me that either the 4 or 8 channel Vampire will work on the v8's. The advantage to the 8 channel is resale/re-purpose for a coil on plug application.

The same logic will apply to the v6's.

edit 2: Thanks Dale, I emailed James asking the question about my strategy.

knock sensor

John, is the Vampire knock sensor connection connected to the stock knock sensor? Or does it have a separate sensor?

Don, have your tuner check your strategy to see if knock sensor is available even though there isn't one mechanically present on a stock vehicle. My strategy supports up to two knock sensors even though the engine only came with one.

If I select two instead of one then I can assign them to different cylinders.

Notice than even though I only have six cylinders the strategy supports up to ten.

On my 4.6L I hope to find alternative locations to mount the knock sensors so I don't have to purchase a Vampire. I would be surprised if Ford produced the SVT Cobra with an Eaton supercharger and no knock sensor capability. I will do more research on the engine configuration. My 850 Turbo Wagon had the knock sensors mounted on the front side of the block (ignore the arrows).

Maybe I can mount one on each outer side of the block (ignore the arrows).

The threaded boss just above the tail of the blue arrow looks like a good spot. Its near the top of the cylinder bore and about midway back in the block.


stock knock sensor

Videos from race day

Videos from race day.

First Time Trial.

Weight Scale

Second Time Trial

Third Time Trial

First elimination

Second Elimination

Third Elimination

Fourth Elimination

Fith and Final Elimination

Great vids!

And even better, no mishaps.

Wow, thats fast.


Thanks Dono,
After everything that happened to you and Tim I was concerned that it was an Explorer curse that weekend. I was afraid I was going home on a tow truck but it actually held up once again. Thing must be super-glued together.

I am usually .5 slower in the hotter weather, I can not wait to see some 40-50 degree weather to see what this years best time is going to be.

I got a three day weekend because the Pope is in Philadelphia and roads are closed. I plan to spend most of that time in the garage working on the truck.

After everything that happened to you and Tim I was concerned that it was an Explorer curse that weekend.

no, your safe. you havent been dumb enough to put a 347 in your truck. mind you, why would you. your times are beating the hell outta us anyway, and you probably still get 20 mpg.


LOL, 20? I wish.
This truck gets about 170 miles to a tank full. That's around 10MPG.
My other two trucks average 14 MPG.

Rear Seat Delete

Got rid of the rear seats, they were 50-52 lbs.
The nuts, bolts and two inner seat belt latches/bracket came to about 3lbs.
I am working on something to keep my racing tote and extra rainX in the back when stopping fast. Should have that done tomorrow.

The carpet is pretty ****ty, there is coffee or soda all soaked in to it. I cleaned it a few years ago but it resurfaces. I may just replace it.
Also there is some metal floor showing, and some seat belt studs I will have to do something about.

I mounted my car PC computer right in the middle where the seats used to be.
Here are a few pictures.


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LOL, 20? I wish.
This truck gets about 170 miles to a tank full. That's around 10MPG.
My other two trucks average 14 MPG.

Holy smokes!! That's worse than my 347! but you had a lower gear and probably drive it harder than I do. I can still get around 14.5MPG on the highway and somewhere around 11 - 12 driving around town (1/2 is country driving).


65 highway miles to MapleGrove Raceway, eight 1/4 mile passes, a lot of idling, and 65 miles back home. Little less than a 1/4 tank of gas left.

I am just glad that the fuel prices here are down right now.

Rear Cargo Bar

Today I finished my rear seat delete project.
To delete the rear seats I had to mount the Car PC somewhere else and find a way to keep my racing gear and extra washer fluid from flying forward while driving to the track. Once I get to the track the stuff comes out of the truck and sits in my parking spot till it is time to go home.

This weekend I did a upper control arm bushing and two sway bar end links. While in the garage and trying to come up with something, I thought of the old sleeves off the old links. I dug up some 3/8 all thread and found a couple of clamps that would go on top to hold a bar.

Off to Home Depot to get a light metal bar, some rubber end caps, and two pieces of aluminum flat bar and I had what I needed to complete the project. The whole thing weighs 5 lbs and will keep my stuff from hitting me in the back of the head in an abrupt stop. I can remove the metal bar as well since I used clevis pins to attach it.

I still need to work on getting rid of those studs sticking up, and that opening in the carpet.


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So last night I found the relay for my intercooler fan, started intermittently not working. I replaced it and parked the truck in the garage for the night.
Today was race day, I have to say that I can not believe nothing broke.
I won the bracket, got a 6 foot trophy. More importantly, I made it home alive.
I have been considering hanging up the towel on racing this thing. I just don't feel safe anymore. What if I dump coolant under the tires and loose control and roll this thing, or what if an axle snaps and I roll this thing. Or maybe a tire blowout.
Then again maybe it would be better going out doing something I love to do rather than dying at an old age with some disease I can not fend off. I don't know, I just want to be happy for what ever time I have left and if possible I don't want to feel pain.
One thing is for sure, there is no other time in my life that I am enjoying myself more than at the race track. Making new friends, seeing old ones, and racing them all. I thank God for the happiness I felt today

Thank you John for posting that account of your satisfying time at the track. I've been away way for a week, and I appreciate any good news or stories like that.

Those are great videos and that's a fine truck you built. Keep enjoying your life as best you can, and safely of course. God Bless you.:salute:

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Thanks Don!
Welcome back!