My attempt to replace a broken exhaust manifold stud on my V8.

[Explorer_PL]

Yesterday, I took a day off to catch up with few things and to change my front brakes as I occasionally heard them grinding even though there was still pad material. I got a set of 2 rotors and pads off ebay for $ 80 ( I know - cheap stuff but works for me). I already drove close to 100 miles and it feels great. I also cleaned the slide bolts and greased them. But that is besides the point.

When I had my passenger side front wheel off, I removed the wheel well liner, because the ticking was coming from that side. Of course I found the upper #4 stud broken off, and the black soot marks on the head. Also, once the engine cooled down, I started the engine with my remote starter while having my eyes and ears right in there - no doubt it was coming from there.
Now, for those who never looked there, upper # 4 is probably the easiest to fix, but not in my case. The guys who did that repair and replaced the manifolds on these trucks should receive a "most patient people" award. Even with a somewhat clean access to the stud who broke about 2 mm below the head surface level, how can you get the drill centered in there ? This is the most tight space I have seen. If people with 4.6 in F150s are having problems getting a drill there, than in a smaller engine bay of an Explorer it's close to impossible. In the end I was able to drill about 1/4 inch into the stud, but not centered, and when my bolt extractor caught it finally, it just snapped leaving the tip there. Someone said that it's sometimes better to pull the motor out of the truck. I can't imagine drilling the broken studs that are behind the strut tower.
Questions:
1. How can I drill out the "easy out" bit ?
2. How close is the water jacket to the stud ? Is it right behind the end of the stud ?
3. What is the size of the studs: 8mm, 10 mm, or 3/8 in or what ?

Thanks

 

[Boomyal]

Yer a brave lad. I guess fear of something like this is why I paid to have mine done. Not to mention, these days, I am soooooo slow at getting the simplest project done.

When they did my left mani, they either broke a stud or one was already broken. I do not know which one it was. They did charge me an xtra $25 to remove it. Maybe the pros have a broken stud trick for circumstances like you have.

 

[JCat]

Drill bits, easy outs, and taps are all made of hardened tool steel.

The only way to remove them is to burn them out with a special machine. It is called an EDM (or Electric Discharge Machine) and it uses a process similar to welding.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_discharge_machining

You will need to remove the head and take it to a shop that has this capability.

Sorry for your misfortune.
.

 

[Explorer_PL]

They have bunch of tricks; they weld a piece of rod or nut to a broken stud, they use professional grade extractors and drills, and other stuff...

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks JCat, I heard of that method, pretty cool.
If I need to remove the head, then I would replace the motor probably If I can't get it out on my driveway, then I am going to drive it with that noise until the motor dies.

 

[polizi212]

Right angle drill!!! might help get in there a bit more easily

 

[Explorer_PL]

Yes, that would partially help, but in many cases you do not even see what or where you are drilling.

 

[Boomyal]

Yes, that would partially help, but in many cases you do not even see what or where you are drilling.

I did not read this thru but see if it has any tips for you.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399621

 

[Explorer_PL]

Thanks, I read that too, very interesting.

So anybody can find the size of the studs ?

I can't seem to find it anywhere.

 

[vipersinu2]

I drilled thru strut tower. Use a reverse drill bit so the the reverse spinning of the bit will actually take out broken stud. U probably will not even need a easy out
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344527&page=3