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my clutch went bad, shops are asking over a thousand to replace it

Vikram

Active Member
Joined
November 14, 2014
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1995 Ford Explorer XLT 4W
I was gonna get the Luk clutch kit and slave cylinder, but with the labour from local shops they are saying its a 6 hour job and will cost over a thousand bucks, thats more than the car is worth!

Does that mean its time to get rid of this car? What should I do?

thanks
 



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What year and what part of the country are you in?

It is a 4-8 hour job depending on model year etc

Use only luk new clutch set new luk master and slave
I charge $6-800 labor to do a clutch on these trucks and I’m cheap
 






IMO, doing the repair depends on the overall condition of the vehicle. If it has a lot of rust, needs other repairs etc. then I wouldn't put $1,000 into it. If it is a sound car and it is reliable otherwise then the clutch replacement might be worth doing. Six hours could be a reasonable time. I have changed clutches in Mustangs and it took me a 8-10 hours but I don't have access to a lift, transmission lift etc. Considering the price of new cars these days a $1,000 repair might be justifiable if the overall condition of the vehicle is good.
 






What year and what part of the country are you in?

It is a 4-8 hour job depending on model year etc

Use only luk new clutch set new luk master and slave
I charge $6-800 labor to do a clutch on these trucks and I’m cheap
right on thanks

its a 95, Im the US
 






thanks guys!

looks like the luk clutchkit doesn't come with a release bearing, so I am going to get the Sachs clutch kit


Should I just do this clutch kit or what other parts should I replace?
 






The rear main seal is something I would replace while the transmission is out. Look for input and output shaft leaks on the transmission and replace the seals if needed. Check the U-joint on the driveshaft and replace if needed. Basically any part you remove or have easy access to with the transmission removed should be checked and replaced if necessary. You don't want to have to pay another $1,000 in labor to replace a $5 rear main seal etc.
 






luk only only only!!!! luk is the OE part supplier, so imo stick w luk and order the release bearing seperately... and +1 for the rear main mine leaks :(
 






@Vikram

LOTS of info over the years on this forum - use the site search feature OR GOOGLE.

Parts:

Buy everything NEW from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 0100535710EC8E
Expires: April 19, 2022

Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear About Us’ box to receive the discount.

For What it's worth - my .02 - Buy everything LUK brand:
NEW Flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder.

Don't make the mistake and resurface your current flywheel - this is a throw away clutch system with very tight operating tolerances BOTH mechanically and hydraulically. Buy a new flywheel; LUK LFW156 for $45 from Rock Auto...

Rear Main Seal:

OHV V-6 X Engine Rear Main Seal KIT - BUY only from FORD! Part# Ford F5TZ-6701-A

LINK:
Labor:
Don't know what area of the US you live in. I live in Occupied Nor-Cal PRK, an area with a LOT of transmission shops (i.e. competition), and shopped around, and had two different independent transmission shops replace mine twice BUT with my parts.
Both times I paid $500 Cash Flat Rate (last time was in '19).
BUT I told both shops that they could take 5 days to do the job, in between other jobs, as I had a 2nd car.
BOTH shops did it over 2 days, and I picked up my Ex the morning of the 3rd day.
BOTH shops wouldn't touch the job unless I supplied LUK brand parts...

Final advice: since you have a 4WD/AWD - don't even consider doing the job at home - seriously...

BOTH times I picked up my Ex from the transmission shop, and chatted with the mechanic, without asking either mechanic, BOTH commented on how incredibly heavy the transmission/transfer case assembly was.

This unsolicited comment was coming from big dudes, that had years of specialized experience, and were fully equipped with a hydraulic car lift and a hydraulic transmission lift w/ chains to secure the trans/transfer case assembly.

Good luck and report back -
 






@Vikram

LOTS of info over the years on this forum - use the site search feature OR GOOGLE.

Parts:

Buy everything NEW from Rock Auto

For What it's worth - my .02 - Buy everything LUK brand:
NEW Flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder.

Don't make the mistake and resurface your current flywheel - this is a throw away clutch system with very tight operating tolerances BOTH mechanically and hydraulically. Buy a new flywheel; LUK LFW156 for $45 from Rock Auto...

Rear Main Seal:
OHV V-6 X Engine Rear Main Seal KIT - BUY only from FORD! Part# Ford F5TZ-6701-A

LINK:
Labor:
Don't know what area of the US you live in. I live in Occupied Nor-Cal PRK, an area with a LOT of transmission shops (i.e. competition), and shopped around, and had two different independent transmission shops replace mine twice BUT with my parts.
Both times I paid $500 Cash Flat Rate (last time was in '19).
I told both shops that they could take 5 days to do the job, in between other jobs, as I had a 2nd car. BOTH shops did it in 2 days.
BOTH shops wouldn't touch the job unless I supplied LUK brand parts...

Final advice: since you have a 4WD/AWD - don't even consider doing the job at home - seriously...

BOTH times I picked up my Ex from the transmission shop, and chatted with the mechanic, BOTH commented on how incredibly heavy the transmission/transfer case was - and this was coming from big guys, that had years of specialized experience, and were fully equipped with a hydraulic lift and a hydraulic transmission lift w/ chains to secure the trans/transfer case assembly.

Good luck and report back -
agree with everything fastdave said!!! may i add that iirc around SoCal it was north o' 1000 iirc,... good luk;) (i had to...)
 






^^^^ Found out long ago you gotta' go to industrial areas for a reasonable deal.

Up here I went to Antioch and Pittsburg.
 






^^^^ Gotta' go to industrial areas for a reasonable deal.

Up here I went to Antioch and Pittsburg.
didnt do too much research, as i have an auto, but was just curious to see if the charge changed if i had a manual ;)
 






@Vikram

LOTS of info over the years on this forum - use the site search feature OR GOOGLE.

Parts:

Buy everything NEW from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 0100535710EC8E
Expires: April 19, 2022

Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear About Us’ box to receive the discount.

For What it's worth - my .02 - Buy everything LUK brand:
NEW Flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder.

Don't make the mistake and resurface your current flywheel - this is a throw away clutch system with very tight operating tolerances BOTH mechanically and hydraulically. Buy a new flywheel; LUK LFW156 for $45 from Rock Auto...

Rear Main Seal:
OHV V-6 X Engine Rear Main Seal KIT - BUY only from FORD! Part# Ford F5TZ-6701-A

LINK:
Labor:
Don't know what area of the US you live in. I live in Occupied Nor-Cal PRK, an area with a LOT of transmission shops (i.e. competition), and shopped around, and had two different independent transmission shops replace mine twice BUT with my parts.
Both times I paid $500 Cash Flat Rate (last time was in '19).
BUT I told both shops that they could take 5 days to do the job, in between other jobs, as I had a 2nd car.
BOTH shops did it over 2 days, and I picked up my Ex the morning of the 3rd day.
BOTH shops wouldn't touch the job unless I supplied LUK brand parts...

Final advice: since you have a 4WD/AWD - don't even consider doing the job at home - seriously...

BOTH times I picked up my Ex from the transmission shop, and chatted with the mechanic, without asking either mechanic, BOTH commented on how incredibly heavy the transmission/transfer case assembly was.

This unsolicited comment was coming from big dudes, that had years of specialized experience, and were fully equipped with a hydraulic car lift and a hydraulic transmission lift w/ chains to secure the trans/transfer case assembly.

Good luck and report back -
I’ve dropped these transmissions out in the driveway. The 5 speed can’t weigh much more than 100 pounds. Any competent home mechanic with a little ingenuity shouldn’t have any problems. If you’ve got no way to lift/lower it just take the extra 45 minutes to pull the t case off. Separate they shouldn’t be that difficult to handle.
 






I was going to say I can hang the 5 speed on my knees and stab it using my arms and knees, it is fairly light compared to most transmissions I deal with

I always remove the drivelines and transfer case and then transmission… makes life so much easier

Sachs is a good company but I will only install luk parts in these trucks at least the hydraulics must be luk and you must use a new master and a new slave no exceptions
 






I used whatever parts NAPA sold me when I replaced the 5 speed in my 94 b4000. Not a terribly difficult job, make sure you torque the flywheel bolts down and use loctite, I had those come loose on me and thankfully nothing was broken, but it's a bit of a hassle to do it all again. Make sure you have the clutch plate alignment tool b4 you start the job. I put a new slave in and the pre-filled master cylinder.

I had them resurface the flywheel, everything worked fine on that truck. Make sure you don't try to tow a 568 megawide round baler with 3.27 gears though, had a nice 1-3, 5th gear whine forever after I tried that, never had any problems with it besides that.
 






Also replace the pilot bearing since you’re right there and they are cheap. Take the time to get a Timken brand pilot, I got mine from rockauto when I ordered the Luk clutch etc.
 






What everyone else said. I had 4 5 speeds. Given inflated prices on everything right now, $1100 is ballpark. My current 02 previous owner had the clutch done about a year before I bought it. Used LUK. However they didn't buy a new flywheel, or a new slave, or a rear main seal. The rear main is leaking now, & I get clutch rattle.
 






@Vikram

LOTS of info over the years on this forum - use the site search feature OR GOOGLE.

Parts:

Buy everything NEW from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 0100535710EC8E
Expires: April 19, 2022

Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear About Us’ box to receive the discount.

For What it's worth - my .02 - Buy everything LUK brand:
NEW Flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder.

Don't make the mistake and resurface your current flywheel - this is a throw away clutch system with very tight operating tolerances BOTH mechanically and hydraulically. Buy a new flywheel; LUK LFW156 for $45 from Rock Auto...

Rear Main Seal:

OHV V-6 X Engine Rear Main Seal KIT - BUY only from FORD! Part# Ford F5TZ-6701-A

LINK:
Labor:
Don't know what area of the US you live in. I live in Occupied Nor-Cal PRK, an area with a LOT of transmission shops (i.e. competition), and shopped around, and had two different independent transmission shops replace mine twice BUT with my parts.
Both times I paid $500 Cash Flat Rate (last time was in '19).
BUT I told both shops that they could take 5 days to do the job, in between other jobs, as I had a 2nd car.
BOTH shops did it over 2 days, and I picked up my Ex the morning of the 3rd day.
BOTH shops wouldn't touch the job unless I supplied LUK brand parts...

Final advice: since you have a 4WD/AWD - don't even consider doing the job at home - seriously...

BOTH times I picked up my Ex from the transmission shop, and chatted with the mechanic, without asking either mechanic, BOTH commented on how incredibly heavy the transmission/transfer case assembly was.

This unsolicited comment was coming from big dudes, that had years of specialized experience, and were fully equipped with a hydraulic car lift and a hydraulic transmission lift w/ chains to secure the trans/transfer case assembly.

Good luck and report back -
yes with the flywheel i bought a used 87 caravan 5sp nice little van but owner killed 2 clutches when i had clutch replace it looked like they did not do flywheel the first time van only had like 50,000 on it . i guess its true some people should buy automatic trans
i hate to do it i scrapping my 99 explorer 2d slave cyl failed then fuel pump i had low finances at time and it sat got pump in had trouble finding shop to do clutch they wanted there parts of there choice. but now i can pay the pats failed the paints bad so its not really woth the cost. but bought new except maintance, batteries 1 set tires i spent nothing on it in 20 years and got 20 mpg commuting to work
if ford still made that combo 4l ohv 5sp 2d not this 2.3 4cyl turbo
 






@Vikram

LOTS of info over the years on this forum - use the site search feature OR GOOGLE.

Parts:

Buy everything NEW from Rock Auto

5% Discount Code: 0100535710EC8E
Expires: April 19, 2022

Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear About Us’ box to receive the discount.

For What it's worth - my .02 - Buy everything LUK brand:
NEW Flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, clutch slave cylinder, and clutch master cylinder.

Don't make the mistake and resurface your current flywheel - this is a throw away clutch system with very tight operating tolerances BOTH mechanically and hydraulically. Buy a new flywheel; LUK LFW156 for $45 from Rock Auto...

Rear Main Seal:

OHV V-6 X Engine Rear Main Seal KIT - BUY only from FORD! Part# Ford F5TZ-6701-A

LINK:
Labor:
Don't know what area of the US you live in. I live in Occupied Nor-Cal PRK, an area with a LOT of transmission shops (i.e. competition), and shopped around, and had two different independent transmission shops replace mine twice BUT with my parts.
Both times I paid $500 Cash Flat Rate (last time was in '19).
BUT I told both shops that they could take 5 days to do the job, in between other jobs, as I had a 2nd car.
BOTH shops did it over 2 days, and I picked up my Ex the morning of the 3rd day.
BOTH shops wouldn't touch the job unless I supplied LUK brand parts...

Final advice: since you have a 4WD/AWD - don't even consider doing the job at home - seriously...

BOTH times I picked up my Ex from the transmission shop, and chatted with the mechanic, without asking either mechanic, BOTH commented on how incredibly heavy the transmission/transfer case assembly was.

This unsolicited comment was coming from big dudes, that had years of specialized experience, and were fully equipped with a hydraulic car lift and a hydraulic transmission lift w/ chains to secure the trans/transfer case assembly.

Good luck and report back -
I'm about to do my 1st Gen, complete like you mentioned, for the price of parts on RockAuto and piece of mind. Unfortunately, I'm going to be the one to do mine since it's my second car I can take my time and pull it apart.
 






Now’s a good time to keep your current vehicle running.

Used cars are stupid $$$
 



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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have a 95 Sport and did this job years ago. It is pretty much all labor. Got new clutch and clutch slave cylinder from Autozone. Was not terribly expensive. Make sure you change pilot bearing as well. You'll need a puller or use grease/bread trick. Big part of this job is removing transfer case (bulky) and transmission (Big and bulky). Your Y-pipe is also in the way, so it will need to be removed. I had to chop the studs off the factory manifold to get mine off. You will also need to bleed the clutch master cylinder if you disconnect. A special tool is required, and comes with most kits. 95 is still running and no clutch related problems.
 






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