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My explorer “buield”

302nitrous

Active Member
Joined
July 24, 2018
Messages
51
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City, State
RI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer sport
hi, I have a 1999 Ford Explorer sport with a 302 swap, converted too rwd with 3:73 posi rear end, lowered with a small shot of nitrous on a single fogger wet system.

Future mods:
HO cam
Roller rockers 1.6 intake 1.7 exhaust
J mod
Headers
Drilled and slowed roters
And maybe some xp8 Saleen rims, maybe cobra r’s

Just my fun little daily driver too and from work.
 



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This is basically the set up.

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Welcome to this forum! Could you show a picture of the nitrous set up? Do you have a supplier to refill the system or do you have to purchase new bottles each time?

There is a refill station a few miles away from me. 6.50 a lb
 






Nitrous is addictive lol. I ran about 20 bottles through my old mountaineer at the track eating import ass. Used to be $38 to fill up my 10lb at the one shop I frequented. Then I moved and cheapest around was $5.50 a lb, definitely slowed my consumption. This was 10-12 years ago too.
 






Why are two solenoids used? It looks like both solenoids are connected to the same inlet port on the intake with a "Y" connection. Is there a pressure gauge to let you know how much nitrous is left in the tank?
 






Why are two solenoids used? It looks like both solenoids are connected to the same inlet port on the intake with a "Y" connection. Is there a pressure gauge to let you know how much nitrous is left in the tank?

So I run a single fogger wet system. One solenoid is the nitrous solenoid and the other solenoid is the fuel. Nitrous is only as effective as the amount of fuel that is added. When I hit wide open throttle both noids open and inject the n2O and correct fuel mixture into my intake. Too much nitrous and to little fuel will cause a lean condition, melting internals. Too much fuel and I can wipe the oil off the walls and have issues. Or intake back fire.

Ask any questions. I’ll be happy to reply. I love talking about this truck lol
 






Is there a pressure gauge to let you know how much nitrous is left in the tank?

So I have a gauge on the tank (not pictured) and it tells me how much pressure is in the tank. Generally 950-1000 bottle psi is ideal. When the pressure starts to drop less nitrous will be forced into the engine and More fuel will be forced in, causing a rich condition. They do make kits out there that will adjust the fuel pressure along with bolt nitrous bottle pressure.

A future mod is a Autometer nitrous pressure gauge that I will mount on the dash.
 
























How many miles do you get on a tank of nitrous until it needs to be refilled?

On a 10 lb tank with bottle heater you can get about 15-20 1/8th mile passes. (It's not legal to use on street, I have a ticket to prove it lol)

I got pulled over for speeding and the only thing in the back was a nitrous tank strapped down with a line hooked up. (I could of had it installed and not hooked up and wouldn't of got a ticket). Of course it was the same day I had left the track so had the back seats out so it was in plain sight. Damn bottle was near empty too.
 






How many miles do you get on a tank of nitrous until it needs to be refilled?
On a 10 lb tank with bottle heater you can get about 15-20 1/8th mile passes. (It's not legal to use on street, I have a ticket to prove it lol)

I got pulled over for speeding and the only thing in the back was a nitrous tank strapped down with a line hooked up. (I could of had it installed and not hooked up and wouldn't of got a ticket). Of course it was the same day I had left the track so had the back seats out so it was in plain sight. Damn bottle was near empty too.

I haven’t had that problem yet. I keep my bottle in the cargo area with a cargo cover over it. I went to an inspection station and got my expo inspected with the full kit installed lol
 






Are you running the stock fuel pump? If so,
Is the fuel for the nitrous hooked up to the valve on the fuel rail?

How are you controlling the Air fuel ratio when bott pressure drops? Do you have a controller or just stop using it?

Do you have arp bolts on the lower or upper intake?
Any concern of blowing a gasket anywhere?
 






Are you running the stock fuel pump? If so,
Is the fuel for the nitrous hooked up to the valve on the fuel rail?

How are you controlling the Air fuel ratio when bott pressure drops? Do you have a controller or just stop using it?

Do you have arp bolts on the lower or upper intake?
Any concern of blowing a gasket anywhere?

I am running the factory fuel pump and the line to the fuel solenoid is hooked up via shredder valve with a 1/16 npt-4an fitting

I have a bottle warmer and monitor my pressure normally, I will not spray unless my bottle pressure is at 900+ for the bottle.

I don’t have arp bolts, everything is stock. Arp headwear is in the future tho. I have more of a concern about blowing head gaskets more then anything due to the excessive pressure in the heads. Possibly lifting the head. But I won’t go any higher then a 125 shot at this stage.
 






How do you control your air fuel ratio, ? , or does it stay correct with 900+ in bottle with matching fuel and n0s jets?
 






How do you control your air fuel ratio, ? , or does it stay correct with 900+ in bottle with matching fuel and n0s jets?

Aslong as the bottle pressure is 900+ it stays consistent. The second it drops below 900 psi (even with bottle heater on) means that he nitrous is almost gone. That’s when I stop spraying. Generally I go 8 passes and call it a day just for the fact that I don’t want to over do it, and I play it safe.

What I do is I monitor my long term fuel trim to make sure the air to fuel is correct.

A lot of the time I’ll fill the bottle and I’ll buy new plugs and do a nitrous tune up

Gap plugs at .025
Install with engine warm.
Do a quick burnout
Do a 1/4 mile pass
Instantly shut engine off after I cross the line
Pull plugs on both banks and read them
From there I’ll make my timing adjustments and fuel adjustments just by reading the spark plug.

Kind of an old school way of doing it but it is the most effective.

Nothing will tell you how your engine is doing better then a spark plug reading. Not even a a/f ratio gauge.
 






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