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My Explorer build.

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Well I got my Camshaft Position sensor and was about to replace it. Got the Top off and was About to put on the new one and saw that it would Make no difference if I had. The Synchronizer is bad.
The Difference in Sensors
Camshaft Position Sensor.jpg


Not sure if you can tell the Difference between the Good one and bad one LOL

So I have to replace Synchronizer :-( Gonna be ordering that now to get my Girl back on the road again. Forgot to get picture of the Synchronizer but when I get new one and replace it I will get a picture and post it. Not sure how my Explorer was running after I saw how back everything was.
 



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I think when the rotor breaks off it just makes a conservative educated guess. It should run more efficient with the new synchro
 












Pretty typical. Happens to all of them eventually.
 






Well Got the new one ordered. Gonna see if I can replace it tonight. I will take pic this evening to show what I had :-) Right now She runs REALLY rough.
 






Just sucks pulling the plug and getting to TDC. I always dread it for no reason.
 












Nope.
set the #1 cylinder to Top dead center of the compression stroke, place special tool on the synch unit and drop it into place.
The tricky part is TDC on the compression stroke. You can use the timing pointer but keep in mind the piston comes up to TDC on the exhaust stroke also.

You could pull the fuel pump fuse ( so the cylinders do not hydro-lock from excess fuel) , remove the spark plugs ( makes the engine crank easier) and have someone slowly bump the starter while you attempt to plug the #1 spark plug hole with your thumb. When you feel the air pushing out with no way to stop it you are getting compression. stop here, then turn the crank pulley by hand clockwise to line up the timing marks. If you went past it, you need to turn the crank pulley 1 and 3/4 rotations, clockwise only, then slowly approach the timing marks by hand.

Now you can pull the coilpack bracket off, pull out the old synch unit, put the tool on the new synch unit, and drop it in.

Since the synch unit shaft is also the oil pump drive, please purchase a motorcraft synch unit. Aftermarket units use cheaper parts, some end up shearing the lock pin and oil pressure goes away.
 






Thanks @Turdle Hopefully be done tonight. Miss driving my Explorer. Even thought it has only been a few days but still. LOL.
 






Well I did not get to it last night. Had to rotate tires on my Sonata and it got Dark REALLY fast go figure. LOL. Saturday I will be replacing. Have time and hopefully not that cold out side. As I said before once I get it torn apart will post up Pictures of the bad one. Right now though she runs REALLY bad. was moving her out of the drive way and could Barely get her to move out of her own shadow. Can not wait to get her back on the road again.
 






Well got cam position synchronizer replaced and WOW what a difference. She runs great and I have no engine lights on. It's great.
Can you tell which one is the old one? LOL
IMG_20171223_102938048.jpg


So glad she is running again.
 






Looks like I need to do this. Not looking forward to it, but at least I have a low mile motorcraft unit in my parts Mounty.
 






If you pull the cam sensor off for some reason and the synchro isn't relatively new, drop in a few drops of oil. The bushings deep inside don't get oiled well, and those are the most common failure of these units. I don't know how the upper parts fail, given they never touch anything. I wonder if the bushings get work enough to allow side to side movement of the shaft at the top, and then the sensor is hit.

How does the shaft feel on that bad synchronizer, is it loose at all?
 






I think it’s the plastic that holds the magnet that gets brittle and fails. On my last Mounty the bushings were still fairly tight.
 






I think it’s the plastic that holds the magnet that gets brittle and fails. On my last Mounty the bushings were still fairly tight.
I can see that happening too. The one I had to replace, on my latest truck, was from the bearings squealing.
 






Looks like I need to do this. Not looking forward to it, but at least I have a low mile motorcraft unit in my parts Mounty.

Its really not hard at all. I was getting all worked up but once I started getting in to get things taken out and put back in it turned out to be pretty easy. I did how ever see that the 4.0's are in the rear of the engine. The 5.0's are on the front of engine. Just a matter of getting things removed and set to TDC.
 






Putting the synchro back in is the tricky part. The oil pump drive gear does not always line back up with the new unit. Which is why it's really important to note carefully how the old one is turned/pointed when it's just out completely, and start the new one in exactly the same orientation. The shaft/rotor needs to be exactly oriented like the old one was when it goes in, remember it or mark it, whatever works best for you.

If it doesn't mesh with the gears going in, then you have to turn it a little each way to gently get it to line up. Go slow there, don't rush it, because the worst case is to have to turn the crank a hair to move the cam gear a little, to hope to get the oil pump drive gear to line up. The cam gear has 22 teeth, the oil pump drive shaft has six sides, which is a difference that can make it very difficult to line up a distributor. You have to get it in the right cam gear tooth, the oil pump shaft doesn't matter. But you can only move the cam gear to help line them up.
 






I just set mine to TDC and used the tool that came with it and set it in there. Put everything together and she fired right up. Took her to Advanced Auto used Computer and cleared the codes. It wonderful running around now with no Engine lights on. :-)
 






I’ve done it a few times before, I’m just currently away from the warmth of my garage and comfort of my big roller box.
 



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