My first A4LD rebuild (advice welcome and I'm sure I'll have questions as it goes on) | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My first A4LD rebuild (advice welcome and I'm sure I'll have questions as it goes on)

Anduiril

Active Member
Joined
February 16, 2012
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City, State
Orlando, Fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 Explorer 4x4
Well I have decided I'm finally going to rebuild my A4LD for my '92 Ex (it was bought with trans problems for $250 as a project vehicle last year). This is my first ever trans rebuild but thanks to :notworthy: Glacier and Brain's threads I'm sure I can do it. I have a second trans which I think I'll probably end up doing as a Frankentranny but I want to get one rebuild under my belt before I attempt it. Also I'm going to need the Ex drivable for that project.

I'm still trying to get some of the specialty tools I'm going to need for the re-assembly. I got 93 Ford factory reference manual (It was written for Europe so the part numbers might not be the same but I don't know what the difference might be). I'm thinking about ordering the ATSG update manual, but I don't know if I need it. Thoughts anyone???:feedback:

Here are a couple photos of the tranny (I haven't even cleaned it yet).
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I found some pieces of what appears to have been a spring in the pan (no pic), which is why I bought the other trans (which doesn't work either). With it out I found another reason for the transmission not working properly. The electrical connector the the 3-4 shift and TCC lockup solenoids is melted along with some of the wires in the wiring harness. The arrow in this photo is pointing to where the connector should be.
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I'm an electronics technician so replacing the wiring won't be a problem, but I'm not sure if I need to go out and find the plug and wiring harness connector or create one.:help:

I will be taking lots of pics along the way so I can remember where things go and stuff, but I only plan on posting the pics of things I have a question about or I find interesting. IF anyone wants to see a pic just let me know.

I am only going to be working on this during my weekends (Sun-Tues) so this is going to be couple month project. Thanks in advance for any advice and help that I know I'm going to receive.

Edit. I decided to start keeping track of all the damaged parts that need to be replaced.
Overdrive snap ring retainer Old one failed and going to get new version.
New OD Drum Destroyed because snap ring came loose.
New HD OD Planetary Better safe than sorry and gonna get an HD one
New OD sprag Old one looks damaged
New Castle washer It's a cheap replacement and can't hurt
 



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A couple questions

Well after a couple weekends of bad weather (for Florida when you are trying to work outside) I finally got started or when the weather was good the girlfriend wanted to do something. Of course a storm decided to come through so I had to stop earlier than I wanted. I got the valve body off and the intermediate and overdrive servos out. Hopefully tomorrow or Tuesday I'll be able to get it on the engine stand and work on it some more. I did come across a few things that I have questions about. I'll post the pic and then ask the question.

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I think the 10 marks here mean that this transmission has been rebuilt already. Does this mean that I should send the bellhousing off to have the bushing installed and machined in place?

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This is my low/reverse servo. Isn't there supposed to be a spring with it? Does anyone know why someone would have left the spring out?

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Third and last question (for this post anyways, I'm sure there will be more as I go along). Does anyone know why the spring (yellow arrow pointing to it) would be put in the transmission body? Or did it just get lodged there from something breaking?
 






The ten marks around the seal are there to help keep the seal from blowing out, it does not have anything to do with the bushing. When you replace the seal you should use red loctite on the seal and then stake it into place like the stakes you see there.

The missing spring under the low reverse servo it a common rebuild procedure, it will help in preventing delay into reverse. The springs job was to help assist the servo release the band. Over time it has been proven not to be needed and has been eliminated in the later designs of the A4LD, like the 4R55e and 5R55e, ect.

The small spring in the case passage was added in mid 91 to act as a filter, it helps keep debris out of the lock-up valve train that can cause the valve to stick.

The case connector that has been melted should be replaced with a replacement Ford connector for the A4LD, there is a diode in the connector so its a little more that just a pass through for the wires.
 






Thanks for the input JK080 and from your signature I hope to get a lot more from you. The best part is you are a just far enough from me for a good test drive when I get done to come buy you a couple cold ones :chug: (and if you aren't a drinker I'm all good with Pepsi/Coke).

About the stake marks. I know that they are for the seal but my understanding is that 4 marks are stock so 10 tells me someone has been in this transmission already and at 140k miles that means at least 2 failures. I was wondering if maybe there are some not so obvious signs that I should look for while I'm doing the disassembly.

About the missing spring. I'm glad to hear that it may have been done intentionally and not just a mistake. I have no idea who did the previous work but I'm going to be on the safe side and ask about anything I'm not sure of. Actually I'm probably going to ask at some point about something I've already read about and just forgot (just not too much I hope).

What you said about the small spring in the case makes sense. I figured that it was probably supposed to be there based on how it's sitting. I'll put it in a small bag with an orange label with my valve body bolts so I don't lose it on accident.

I'm glad you told me there was a diode in that connector. I'll have to call Ford and see how much they want for it. IF it's too much I'll just find out what the diode is and where it goes and do it myself. I think it should be in the factory manual somewhere. If I have to, I think I can take the one from the other transmission out from under the truck. But I'll deal with that once I call Ford tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help. Hopefully my girlfriends brake job won't take too long tomorrow and she'll let me work on it some more.
 












Today's update and a major problem

Thanks for the links Brooklyn.:thumbsup: I've added them to my favorites. I'm gonna wait until I finish the teardown so I know what all parts I need to order so I can order from each place only once (hopefully) and save on shipping.

Well I was able to tear the transmission down to the center support today. Here are some of the questionable issues and a major problem.

First is the bell housing bolts. There was a black silicone all over the heads and even on the inside all over the o-rings. Any thoughts on why?
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Here is the Overdrive apply lever. I'm thinking it's still usable.
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Here is a picture of the inside of the Overdrive drum.
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And in case you missed the pieces here is a look inside after I pulled the drum. UH OH!!
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At least it looks like everything stayed here, well maybe a couple pieces of spring went elsewhere. Here is why:
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It's hard to tell in the picture but all of the tabs are smashed flat. I was planning on getting the newer version anyway now it's a must.

Here is the castle washer. There are a couple marks on it but not deep. Should this be replaced. I think it was Opera House that had a problem with it but I can't remember if it was a known weakness or if he had a fluke problem.
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Here is a picture of the planetary. Do the needle bearings and how it's welded mean it's a HD unit? I haven't done a detailed inspection yet but a cursory one doesn't show any damage to the teeth and the needle bearings appear to roll smoothly. What else can I check to see if it's re-usable?
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Here is picture from the other side. There are some wear lines from the clutch plates but I'm not sure if they are normal or not.
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Next up and last pic for this post is sprag in the overdrive shaft. At the top you can see that one of the "teeth" is not sticking out like it should be. I was able to turn the overdrive drum both directions so I know that something wasn't working properly here.
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So today I figured out I have to get a new snap ring retainer, probably a new Overdrive sprag, and who knows what all in the overdrive drum. I guess I should edit my first post and start a list of all the things I'm going to have to replace.

Hopefully I'll be able to do some more tomorrow but I think the girlfriend is going to want to spend more time with me than I did today. IF not next weekend is only a week away.
 






Thanks for the links Brooklyn.:thumbsup: I've added them to my favorites. I'm gonna wait until I finish the teardown so I know what all parts I need to order so I can order from each place only once (hopefully) and save on shipping.

Well I was able to tear the transmission down to the center support today. Here are some of the questionable issues and a major problem.

First is the bell housing bolts. There was a black silicone all over the heads and even on the inside all over the o-rings. Any thoughts on why?
picture.php


Thats called doing whatever it takes to stop it from leaking.





Here is the Overdrive apply lever. I'm thinking it's still usable.
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Reuse it the band is adjustable.




.
Here is a picture of the inside of the Overdrive drum.
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Everything in this picture is bad, get a drum with three clutches.





And in case you missed the pieces here is a look inside after I pulled the drum. UH OH!!
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Nice




.
At least it looks like everything stayed here, well maybe a couple pieces of spring went elsewhere. Here is why:
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This is what caused the whole problem, it let the snap ring to come out and the springs ended up destroying things, kind of like a blender.:D

It's hard to tell in the picture but all of the tabs are smashed flat. I was planning on getting the newer version anyway now it's a must.






Here is the castle washer. There are a couple marks on it but not deep. Should this be replaced. I think it was Opera House that had a problem with it but I can't remember if it was a known weakness or if he had a fluke problem.
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You could flip it over and use the unused edges, but they are cheap, replace it.




.
Here is a picture of the planetary. Do the needle bearings and how it's welded mean it's a HD unit? I haven't done a detailed inspection yet but a cursory one doesn't show any damage to the teeth and the needle bearings appear to roll smoothly. What else can I check to see if it's re-usable?
picture.php


Check for pitting under the flat bearing, its the same pitting that is in the hub where the sprag sits.

There should be brass washers on both sides of the pinions separating them from the carrier, I didnt see any in the two pictures. This is not the HD planet, the sprag race would be welded better to the carrier.

I would replace it.




Here is picture from the other side. There are some wear lines from the clutch plates but I'm not sure if they are normal or not.
picture.php


All that wear is from the springs and does not cause a problem, but the no brass washers and there might be pitting under the inner bearing as well.

Next up and last pic for this post is sprag in the overdrive shaft. At the top you can see that one of the "teeth" is not sticking out like it should be. I was able to turn the overdrive drum both directions so I know that something wasn't working properly here.
picture.php


The thin metal plate will be bad where it meets the ring gear, the sprag is obviously bad and there is pitting on the bearing surface. Reuse the ring gear and snap ring.



So today I figured out I have to get a new snap ring retainer, probably a new Overdrive sprag, and who knows what all in the overdrive drum. I guess I should edit my first post and start a list of all the things I'm going to have to replace.

Gotta love the A4LD :D



Hopefully I'll be able to do some more tomorrow but I think the girlfriend is going to want to spend more time with me than I did today. IF not next weekend is only a week away.
 






Thanks again JK080. I updated my parts list. I'm probably going to replace all the snap rings just to be on the safe side. I'm may just being over cautious on that.

About the silicone on the bell housing threads. Is that a common leakage area or should I check for unusual wear there?

I appreciate the help.
Gil
 






Thanks again JK080. I updated my parts list. I'm probably going to replace all the snap rings just to be on the safe side. I'm may just being over cautious on that.

About the silicone on the bell housing threads. Is that a common leakage area or should I check for unusual wear there?

I appreciate the help.
Gil

No its not a big leaky spot, just replace the o-rings and make sure the surface where they sit is flat and they should be fine.
 






Update

Well I did get some work done on the 7th, it's just taken a while to get the photos on the computer. I've been working on my girlfriends motorcycle and it rained this weekend.
I did manage to get a full C-3 tool set on ebay for $165, the case isn't great but the tools are barely (if at all) used. I also started working up my parts list and pricing but that's on my laptop and I'm too lazy to switch it now.

Now everything behind the center support seems to be in great shape, at least to my untrained eyes. I haven't taken the clutches apart yet (I need a clutch spring compressor or figure out a way to do it without one) but I'll work on the sub assemblies after I get the disassembly complete.

Here are some of the photos that I have questions about.

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I think this is the #5 thrust washer (Don't worry the baggies are labeled just not the pictures). Is this normal wear?

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These are the pictures of the intermediate band. They didn't come out but you can still see the numbers in the second picture. The question here is "If I decide to go with a good enough rebuild, would it be okay to reuse this one?"

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The intermediate drum. Just showing the old style retainer which I may update.

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The intermediate planetary. I don't see anything wrong so I think it will go back in.

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And this is looking inside the trans where I left off. The next washer looks in pretty good shape.

Well hopefully next weekend the weather will be cooperative and I can finish the tear down. But here are some of my current thoughts. If the friction plates, the pump gears and the rest of the components are in good shape I'm thinking about just doing a good enough rebuild. I'll just replace the OD assembly, washers, bushings (if needed) and seals. I'm on the fence right now, part of me wants it done the best that I can and part of me just wants to get the vehicle running and go all out on the other transmission.:scratch::confused:
Of course all inputs are welcome.:thumbsup:
 






Update and more questions

Well I got to work on it some today. So here is the progress and questions along the way. I'm putting pictures of the thrust washers up to see if they are excessively worn or could possibly be reused if I decide to go the "good enough" route.

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#8 Thrust washer

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Reverse planet. There are 2 rows of marks on 1 pinion and a row of marks on another but the rest are all fine. Should I be worried about this?

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#9 Thrust washer (I decided to start taking the pictures with the baggies so I can tell which one it is)

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Oil dam. It was installed like this. Is this the correct way? The picture in Glaciers thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1330412&postcount=71 and in the service manual look like it should be flipped over and bigger (deeper).

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:scratch:What is this? I didn't see it in :notworthy: Glaciers thread or in the factory service manual. It was below the Oil dam and above the snap ring. At the bottom you can kinda make out the break in it. It's clean so I'm not sure if it's broke or designed like that.

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#10 washer and the back side of the reverse ring gear. Are those grooves supposed to be there or is something missing?

The last picture for today.
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The inside of the case. The last washer/spacer (whatever it's called) for the reverse sprag is stuck back there. Is it supposed to come out? I didn't try too hard to get it out in case it is supposed to stay there.

I ran out of baggies so it seemed like a good stopping point. Everything is out of the case except the modulator, lever and switches. Next I'm going to start taking the sub-assemblies apart. And then the valve body (I definitely need more baggies) will get taken apart, cleaned and figure out if shift kits have been put in already or if I need to buy them.

Thanks for following along.
Gil
363
 






Well I did get some work done on the 7th, it's just taken a while to get the photos on the computer. I've been working on my girlfriends motorcycle and it rained this weekend.
I did manage to get a full C-3 tool set on ebay for $165, the case isn't great but the tools are barely (if at all) used. I also started working up my parts list and pricing but that's on my laptop and I'm too lazy to switch it now.

Now everything behind the center support seems to be in great shape, at least to my untrained eyes. I haven't taken the clutches apart yet (I need a clutch spring compressor or figure out a way to do it without one) but I'll work on the sub assemblies after I get the disassembly complete.

Here are some of the photos that I have questions about.

picture.php

I think this is the #5 thrust washer (Don't worry the baggies are labeled just not the pictures). Is this normal wear?

Yes thats looks normal

picture.php
picture.php

These are the pictures of the intermediate band. They didn't come out but you can still see the numbers in the second picture. The question here is "If I decide to go with a good enough rebuild, would it be okay to reuse this one?"

I have seen worse, this one should continue to work, but I would replace both bands.

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The intermediate drum. Just showing the old style retainer which I may update.

Looks like some one flipped over the pressure plate on a previous rebuild, those are heats spots,no big deal.

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The intermediate planetary. I don't see anything wrong so I think it will go back in.

Looks normal

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And this is looking inside the trans where I left off. The next washer looks in pretty good shape.

Well hopefully next weekend the weather will be cooperative and I can finish the tear down. But here are some of my current thoughts. If the friction plates, the pump gears and the rest of the components are in good shape I'm thinking about just doing a good enough rebuild. I'll just replace the OD assembly, washers, bushings (if needed) and seals. I'm on the fence right now, part of me wants it done the best that I can and part of me just wants to get the vehicle running and go all out on the other transmission.:scratch::confused:
Of course all inputs are welcome.:thumbsup:
 






Well I got to work on it some today. So here is the progress and questions along the way. I'm putting pictures of the thrust washers up to see if they are excessively worn or could possibly be reused if I decide to go the "good enough" route.

picture.php

#8 Thrust washer



picture.php

Reverse planet. There are 2 rows of marks on 1 pinion and a row of marks on another but the rest are all fine. Should I be worried about this?

This look typical, it should be fine check for brass washers on both sides of the pinions

picture.php

#9 Thrust washer (I decided to start taking the pictures with the baggies so I can tell which one it is)

picture.php

Oil dam. It was installed like this. Is this the correct way? The picture in Glaciers thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1330412&postcount=71 and in the service manual look like it should be flipped over and bigger (deeper).

It looks like its missing the top lip of the oil dam, shouldn't cause a issue but I would replace it.

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:scratch:What is this? I didn't see it in :notworthy: Glaciers thread or in the factory service manual. It was below the Oil dam and above the snap ring. At the bottom you can kinda make out the break in it. It's clean so I'm not sure if it's broke or designed like that.

I have no idea, its hard to tell from the picture. It shouldn't be where you found it.

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#10 washer and the back side of the reverse ring gear. Are those grooves supposed to be there or is something missing?

There looks like there is some wear there, it might have the wrong hub it hard to tell from the picture. Some have a bearing here and the are obvious steps to index the bearing, if you can tell it is flat then it looks right but worn, but if its not making metal it should work. I would replace the hub and replace all thrust washers with a thrust washer kit, its cheap.

The last picture for today.
picture.php

The inside of the case. The last washer/spacer (whatever it's called) for the reverse sprag is stuck back there. Is it supposed to come out? I didn't try too hard to get it out in case it is supposed to stay there.

I ran out of baggies so it seemed like a good stopping point. Everything is out of the case except the modulator, lever and switches. Next I'm going to start taking the sub-assemblies apart. And then the valve body (I definitely need more baggies) will get taken apart, cleaned and figure out if shift kits have been put in already or if I need to buy them.

Thanks for following along.
Gil
363
 






More pictures of the mystery piece

Thanks again for the input JK080. This post is about the mystery piece. I took some more photos of it to see if we can figure out what it is.

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This is a picture by the from the side. The split is obviously a break and not a designed cut. The cigarette is there for a size reference and next to it is the Oil Dam.

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This is a picture from the top.

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This is a picture of how it was positioned in the transmission. Mystery piece fit perfectly around the shaft and sits under the oil dam. I thought maybe it was attached to the oil dam but it's smaller than the opening.

I hope someone reading this can tell me more about this part.

Thanks again.
Gil
395
 






It has to be the oil dam those two pieces were once together. Just get a new one.

EXtrans026.jpg
 






Seeing a whole one makes it certain that's what it is. Thanks. I'm glad you have one laying around. Which way is it supposed to go in? I think it's the narrow side (the part I was confused about) first and the cup facing out Like a Y from the side, but mine looked like this ^.
Hopefully by the end of summer I'll be able to take the X on a road trip to North Ga and buy you a couple beers.
 












I hadn't seen that thread before. Thanks.

One more question for you. Should I buy the ATSG upgrade manual?
 






Thats up to you, it wouldn't hurt, should be a good source of info for the rebuild.
 



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Just a weekly update.
Well I did get a copy of the upgrade manual and lots of other good reading. But I noticed some rust spots on my hood so this weekend and next is going to be spent painting the hood (my first time on that too). But that is why I got the Ex to learn how to do different things.
 






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