My fix for the power 3rd row seat switch

[MikeFreas]

Now that it's done and the wife asked why I bothered I asked myself the same thing. Concern is it will void the power seat warranty. Maybe but we hardly use them and carry stuff including the family dog so the odds of it folding at some point are high. Not sure why they now don't work without the truck in accessory or running. I was testing my first switch when they started to fold until I pressed another button to stop them. Well, it works and ther is no way they are folding if they get bumped without the switch in the on position. Sorry for the video quality.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xe91P6hSPwo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[Spengracin]

Mike, very good idea dude!, like the video

 

[harlenm]

How about step by step instructions on how to do it?

 

[MikeFreas]

How about step by step instructions on how to do it?

Well....

I should have taken notes.

1. Remove the switch housing by gently pulling from the top. the aft edge has a tab that fits behind the plastic panel so be careful. I can't gaurntee the tabs on the top will not break. What's the worst thing that will happen?

2. unplug the two power connectors to free the switch assembly.

3. Now start working the power receptacle out of the switch housing. This is the hardest part of the whole thing and will take some force and small screwdrivers to accomplish.

4. One the power recptecial is removed now remove the metal housing from the plastic ring so all you have left is the plastic ring that was removed as a housing in step 3.

5. Depending on what switch you get you will have to dremmel the inside of the plastic ring to make the switch fit flush. You will most likely have to make some trim cuts to make the cover fit better. I couldn't get the cover to close all the way with the switch I have. No big deal.

6. On the plug that has four wires there are three in a row and one in the corner by itself. Trim the protective cover back a few inches and then cut the wire leaving about 4 inches of wire to the plug. Now plug the switch housing back in and test all the buttons.

7 As long as that worked connect the switch (with some extra wires) to each end of the cut wires. Make sure you use blade connectors to attach the wires to the switch.

8. Put everything back together and test again.

Note this worked on my 12 limited and may or may not on yours. Proceed at your own risk.

 

[Lhymes]

Great idea man. I'm still on the fence about what I'm going to do. Once it arrives, I'll be able to get a better look at the layout, but I'll probably go with a switch solution of sorts, also. Thanks for the info - very helpful!

 

[VinceL]

That first switch is what I was originally looking at. What didn't occur to me was to put it the 12V socket! Pure brilliance. Now that is an elegant solution. I was looking to mount it up high somewhere, with a lot more effort. Now I can just relocate the 12V socket somewhere, but it is easy to find those with covers built in, making it easier.

I'll have to remember not to solder the connections, lol.

Good job

 

[aepilot]

Nicely done!

 

[Mike127]

where did you get the first switch at? (the black one)

 

[MikeFreas]

where did you get the first switch at? (the black one)

Both are sold at radio shack. Remember, don't solder the wires on the terminals as it will melt the switch inside.

 

[Sgt1411]

Mike I have question with regards to the way Ford wired that switch.

It seems like the switch is actually just the negative ground that activates the circuit to the PowerFold seats. So in the 2013 MY the switchpak is changed to be backlit which obviously would require a + power wire (circuit) to be included in that bundle of switch wires. Our 11/12MY don't have that extra positive (power) wire.

Without a wiring schematic we are just guessing but why could we not just buy the 2013MY switchpak, then put a jumper + wire from the cig light + wire to the 2013 switchpak?

 

[Spengracin]

Thats a good question< i pulled mine out to check for a positive+

 

[MikeFreas]

Mike I have question with regards to the way Ford wired that switch.

It seems like the switch is actually just the negative ground that activates the circuit to the PowerFold seats. So in the 2013 MY the switchpak is changed to be backlit which obviously would require a + power wire (circuit) to be included in that bundle of switch wires. Our 11/12MY don't have that extra positive (power) wire.

Without a wiring schematic we are just guessing but why could we not just buy the 2013MY switchpak, then put a jumper + wire from the cig light + wire to the 2013 switchpak?

That might work but without knowing the wiring I don't think I'd try it.


Update on this mod. Remember how I said you have to have the accessory on or car running? Yeah, that's not true. It works like stock (with the switch on) as I found today and watched it fold my cargo liner up. I'm going to try and get a better video.

 

[MikeFreas]

Wanted to bump this and shamelessy plug this mod as it saved the seats from folding with the back packed with gifts and my dog during our holiday trip.

 

[txaggie]

Couple of quick questions on this mod:

1. The wire that needs to be cut is the one (of the four) that is off by itself, correct?

2. I assume the seats don't have a resistance check to reverse themselves if there is something (or someone ) in the seat?

Thanks!

 

[txaggie]

Went to try this mod today, and guess what, the 13's have 6 wires, not four

I guess I need to purchase the service manual/electrical diagrams.

 

[VinceL]

I wonder if the two extra wires are for the switch illumination?

 

[txaggie]

@VinceL yes that is what I assume, but I need some more information before I start cutting random wires.

 

[gatzdon]

Two cheap suggestions for ford that maybe they will respond to if enough people request it.

1. A flip cover for the switch panel. The cover can be made to mount to the existing trim to nothing has to be re-wired. The cover can flip up to access the switches similar to the way the cover for the power point flips up to access the power point.

2. A replacement trim piece for the switch panel that has raised plastic around all the switches so that only something smaller than the switch can activate it. Nothing too dramatic. I'm willing to bet that only a 1mm or 2 higher than the face of the switch would be enough for most people.


A more expensive design change would be to modify the wiring behind the panel to require a switch to be pressed twice to active the powerfold seat. Alternately, a long press can be required.

I'm just thinking out loud. For any one of us to make any of these changes it would not be that cheap, but I would imagine if Ford did it, the cost per owner would be pretty low.