My JL Audio cleansweep/system project | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My JL Audio cleansweep/system project


New Member
December 14, 2014
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2015 Explorer XLT, 202A
I finished phase one of my install. I got a lot of the information that I needed from this board and some other general searches, so I thought I would share my experiences and findings.

First of all, I absolutely love the new sound. I've had more bass in the past but I really can't complain here.

I have a 2015 XLT with the MFT 9 speaker premium sound system. I've been somewhat of a back yard/non professional audio since I was 10 years old helping my big bro work on his stereo systems, so naturally I was not satisfied with the stock setup.

Items I bought:
JL Audio xd600/1v2 and xd400/4v2 (amps)
JL Audio HO112-W6v3 (12w6 in High Output enclosure)
JL Audio CL441dsp (Cleansweep)
JL Audio C2-650 (6.5in/.75in Components for the front doors) - Not installed yet
JL Audio C2-525x (5.25in Coaxial for the rear doors) - Not installed yet
Clarion EQS746 (equalizer)

I couldn't find any grommet (I didn't spend to much time looking either though) so I ran a 4 gauge power wire in the same manner as this post

I have a distribution block mounted under the passenger seat and the amps and Cleansweep are under the drivers side seat (fit perfectly but a tight squeeze for all the wiring) They are grounded under the front seat bolts. I sanded down to bare metal.

The equalizer is mounted on the side of the center consol. Perfect place for fine tuning and manipulation.

I can't find the post now that I got the tip from but using an Add-a-circuit adapter that I got from AutoZone in fuse slot number 38 under the dash. Kind of a tight squeeze but I was able to hook the Cleansweep up to it. All other components are hooked up to the Cleansweep for remote turn on. Do not get the "low profile" version of the Add-A-Circuit (even though you are replacing a low profile fuse)

I only used the front door speakers signals to the Cleansweep. This is because the equalizer only has one set of inputs and sends out a front/rear signal to the 4 channel amp. Also, I disconnected the dash speaker completely because the master audio on the equalizer wouldn't control it.

I couldn't find the right speaker wire color codes anywhere so hope this saves someone some time.

Speaker wire color codes: (Left and right as if your sitting in the drivers seat facing the front)
Dash Speaker+=Green
Dash Speaker-=Gray with Yellow Stripe
Front Left Woofer+=White
Front Left Woofer-=White with Brown Stripe
Front Left Tweeter+=Green with Orange Stripe
Front Left Tweeter-=Gray with Orange Stripe
Front Right Woofer+=White with Violet Stripe
Front Right Woofer-=White with Orange Stripe
Front Left Tweeter+=Violet with Orange Stripe
Front Left Tweeter-=Yellow with Orange Stripe
Rear Left Door+=White with Green Stripe
Rear Left Door-=Brown with Yellow Stripe
Rear Right Door+=Brown with White Stripe
Rear Right Door-=Brown with Blue Stripe
Third row speaker Left+=White with Green Stripe
Third row speaker Left-=Brown with Yellow Stripe
Third row speaker Right+=Brown with White Stripe
Third row speaker Right+=Brown with Blue Stripe

Third row speakers are hooked parallel to the rear door speakers.
Front door tweeters are hooked up in a series with the door speakers.

Once the Cleansweep was calibrated and gains on the amps set using a multimeter and fine tuning with the equalizer, the sound is amazing. Probably the best sounding I've ever had. I haven't even installed the door speakers yet (the new amp is only putting out about 20 watts at the moment to the factory speakers)

I spent roughly 2 grand all said and done. Everything was on sale at a local dealer over the holidays.

I'd be happy to answer any questions if any one has any.

Thanks for being an awesome board.


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From the goodies you listed, it has to sound great. Curious why you chose the HO112-W6v3 over the stealth box JL has available:

I may be wrong but doesn't the square speaker take up alot more room. I am hoping you have pics to post in the near future.

I was quoted roughly $3,500 for a reputable JL dealer to install my system. I havnt pulled the tripper yet due to the high cost.


Well I thought about the stealth install a lot actually. Yes the box takes up quite a bit of space but for me, I don't use that space back there very often and if I need it I can remove the box pretty easily. The only time I really need it is for cross country trips and packing up the kids stuff (got three of them). If we go get groceries or something like that I just fold the rear seats forward and there is plenty of room to stack stuff on top of them.

I would have an issue spending 3500 on all of this also. Once a year for the last 20 years, the local dealership in town has a big sale. Everything was priced lower than anything I could find on ebay or elsewhere (not including the wiring) and I know that the warranties will be honored this way. They would have charged me about 3 or 4 hundred for the entire install though. I'm tempted to just have them do the dynamat and door speakers though. I started to take the door panels off but so far it has scared me a bit due to how hard it seems I have to pull at them. I may give it another shot though now that the rest of the install is done, I may have not been pulling in the right way or places.

I've had 10, 12 and 15 inch subs in the past. I've had sealed and ported enclosures in all sorts of different vehicles. My personal preference is the ported enclosures and I went with the 12 inch version instead of the 10 inch because it fit has the potential for being louder and either way I was going to lose the ability to completely fold the seats back.

Also, with the stealth version, I would have had to cut into the plastic on the rear panel, and I didn't want to do that. With this set up all I have to do to remove everything is pull out the wires and reconnect the head unit speaker wires in the dash and I'm back to stock pretty quickly with no noticeable or extensive modifications to the explorer. There is a good chance that my wife will be driving this thing in the next couple years instead of me. She has no interest in having this setup and I will want to put all of it in what ever I may be driving at that point.

Right now all the wires for the amp, cleansweep, and equalizer are kind of messy. I'm "planning" on removing the drivers seat tomorrow to shorten the wires and clean up how they are ran. I'll take some pictures of the final install and share but that may not be until next weekend depending on what kind of plans my wife has for me this weekend.

Thanks for the reply. I did not know that cutting was involved with installing the Stealth box. Thanks for the heads up. Im sure the woofer you have going on with your install kicks butt compared to the Stealth box. My luck, if I installed the sub you have I would have a suitcase take it out or damage it while driving aggressively. Looking forward to the pics. Again...Good luck!

So here are some pics. Took me all damn day but pretty happy with the result.

Picture of the "Rough draft" install


Picture of the amp rack I built (warning - I am not a very good fabricator but it does the job)

Picture of the amps placement (Not yet wired in)

Picture of everything all wired up

View from the rear seat once driver seat is installed again (I need to vacuum now)

Clarion Equalizer as viewed from the driver seat

Picture of Subwoofer and enclosure


Thanks for the pics.

You put alot of time and effort into the project.

I bet that sub hits hard. I cant give up that space it occupies or the fact the seats cant lay flat if needed without unplugging and unscrewing/velcroing.

The blue lights on the Clarion match well with the Form oem lighting.