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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg
 



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Tim came over and saw me scratching my head as I was torquing one. He was interested and wanted to feel what I was feeling.... and... snap. This was super funny as I did this on his 347 with a valve cover bolt.

yep....i am glad don didnt get a picture of my face when that happen. we heard it, and i stopped, turned in discuss and i think i even said "you know what that was, right?....."

said bolt

11328796_10152888916337513_1575680496_n.jpg


was lucky it held together enough for him to back it out, because i was done with it.
 



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bolts

Man, who would have thought that the holes would have different depths?
That kind of stuff just catches you by surprise.
If it had happened to me the break would have been clear through and I would have had to get the "easy outs" and drill from my tool box. lol.
 






Even funnier (or not), I did the same thing again on a different bolt hole after Tim left. I was lucky again,v and the second bolt came out looking exactly like the first one Tim took the picture of.
....I just picked up 18 bolts 1/4" shorter. I really don't want to risk getting the torque from the bolt being bottomed out instead of holding the pan down. It smells of another pan leak. I really don't want that, for obvious reasons.

Also, I canceled the flex plate since it was on backorder till the 18th of the month.
I spoke with Allan at Dirtydog performance. He suggested prwonlinestore.com I couldn't find what i needed for bolt spacing on the converter, so I called them.
The rep was knowledgeable and said flex plate 1830201 was the correct one for my application of 28oz and 11.4" bolt spacing (He called it 'large bell'). It was in stock, so I ordered it up.
https://www.prwonlinestore.com/product/1830201-gold-series-sfi-rated-chromoly-steel-flexplate
 






parts

When did they say you should get the flexplate?
 






The first one I ordered from Summit is due at Summit on the 18th. The PRW flexplate is in stock, and should ship either today or tomorrow.

Its coming from California, so its over a week away.

This flex plate thing is screwy. There's all kinds of different torque converter hole spacing combinations, but the manufacturers don't list the spacing (Or list in incorrectly). The guy at PRW knew what I was talking about and says the one I ordered is the correct one. My fate on this is in his hands.......

I have a ton of work to do anyway. Most of it revolves around getting that engine bay clean enough to stand inside it so I can pull the old torque converter, change the seal, and install the new converter.

Any tips for getting the old seal out?
 






seal

Drill a small hole in it, CAREFULLY! Then take a small screw and screw it into the seal and pull it out with a pair of pliers or diagonal cutters.

Or

Use a seal puller, careful not to scratch anything.
 






Summit is screwing with me.
Now they moved my pushrods to an estimated ship date of the 16th.
I cancelled the whole order. enough is enough.

I ordered my thick wall 5/16" 6.250 push rods from pushrods.net They have them in stock and they will ship today. I looked at the option of air shipping, but its $100.00usd compared to $30.00usd for ground.

I'll probably take a run at that seal tonight. Thanks 4pointslow, its the 'CAREFULLY' part that has me concerned.
 






Torque Converter

Measure the distance from the outer lip of the bell housing to the torque converter. That way you will know when it is pushed all the way back in when you are done.
Hope the parts don't take to long to get.
 






Quick update:
Things are moving along slowly.
Flex plate showed up today, and it fits the torque converter bolt pattern. WIN

Can't get cam Position synchronizer out-Even if I do, it probably is trashed. Ordered another one. LOOSE

Taking the opportunity to convert fuel line to an6 from fuel filter forward to complete the larger line from the tank to the fuel rails. Can't get connectors on the cheap ass chinese steel braided line. Blood everywhere. It looked like a murder scene. LOOSE.
I'm sure not looking forward to trying that again, but I will be. My hands are throbbing at the thought.

My engine dip stick tube has a crack in it right at the seam where its stopped from pushing any further in to the block. Good luck getting this part new. FAIL
Was this my oil leak? Maybe at least one of them. I don't think I did this getting the tube out. Tim gave me another one that will work if necessary. Its slightly Different, so I will see if I can get mine welded first. If not, Tim's will work. Thanks Tim!

I just pulled the torque converter. Wow those things hold a lot of trans fluid. I picked up a couple of bottles, but will obviously need more.

Push rods are due in on the 16th (A week from today), and so is my cam synchronizer.
 






I just pulled the torque converter. Wow those things hold a lot of trans fluid.

i figured you knew that because you wore most of the fluid from my trans when we tried putting it in
 






Quick update:Taking the opportunity to convert fuel line to an6 from fuel filter forward to complete the larger line from the tank to the fuel rails. Can't get connectors on the cheap ass chinese steel braided line.

Are you using electrical tape on the ends of the braided line? It helps keep the strands in place. You can leave the tape in there too, no need to remove it.
 






Ill try leaving the tape. I'll take a run at it over the next few days (once my hands heal a bit).
Yea Tim, that was a pretty good bath of atf. I remember it well.

I did check out my new front trans pump seal installer. fits perfectly over the pump shaft and looks like it will work awesome. WIN

Bad news...The pump seal rockauto lists is not the right seal. Its to small. FAIL
I'll pick one up locally.

I haven't pulled the old seal yet, but I did clean up the engine bay so I can stand(or sit) in it without getting full of old greasy oil.
 






Tool

Picture of trans seal tool please?
And other pictures, like maybe the engine compartment with the engine removed?
Since you have to wait for parts, might as well take lots of pics. You never know when you might want to see something that would be in the pictures.

Edit: No pictures of bloody hands though, that is painful. ouch!
 






Injectors checked and cleaned as necessary

The guys at Western Turbo here in Winnipeg were great to me on the injectors.
They spent quite a bit of time on their injector tester/cleaner thingy using my injectors as a test to see what they could do with gas injectors.

The results are pretty good. I was concerned before as one of my injectors were really quite weak. A lean condition in 1 cylinder is not a good thing. They worked with the injectors on both flow rate and spray pattern to come up with something they were happy with. I'm extremely happy with the result, and the price.

I also swung by transtech with my seals that are incorrect. We did a straight up trade for the correct seal. again, great guys to deal with.

I'll get more pics tonight. The installer tool is pretty cool.
 

Attachments







Injectors

Make sure you lubricate the new injector O-rings before installation so they don't rip or tear. Engine oil is recommended for the lubricant.

The paperwork has ASNU on it, they make great Injector machines for cleaning and testing. We have one where I work, I got to use it on some Saleen S7 Twin Turbo Injectors. The vehicle had very low miles on it but the injectors were clogged from sitting so much.

At least you can get that trans seal installed now while you are waiting on other parts, hope they get to you earlier than expected.
 






All I really need is those push rods to get the block in. I can install the cam synchronizer at a Later date. That's a good thing, as that sensor is not due to arrive for almost 2 weeks from RockAuto.
I'll get the trans seal in, put a few litres of fluid in the torque converter and seat it. Then, take another run at the an6 fittings for the fuel line. From there, its just odds and ends till my push rods show up next week. By Thursday, I expect to be ready to drop the block in place (Why does that sound easier than it is?).

edit: The dip stick tube is at the welder. I'll pick it up on the way home from work. No phone call from them, so that's good news.
 






Cam Synchronizer

The synchronizer is probably stuck on the oil pump rod. Maybe you can remove the pan and oil pump and that might free up the synchronizer.
Just a thought. You would need that rod too, if you want the oil pump to spin.
Unless your oil pump is driven differently.
 






The synchronizer is probably stuck on the oil pump rod. Maybe you can remove the pan and oil pump and that might free up the synchronizer.
Just a thought. You would need that rod too, if you want the oil pump to spin.
Unless your oil pump is driven differently.

I think your right, and as Tim pointed out...I made it worse.
First, I tried pulling the synchro out. I couldn't lift, pry or curse the synchro out (Although I was able to lift it about 1/4 inch).
I then dropped the pan and oil pump. I pulled on the drive shaft, and couldn't get it out (Motor still hanging on a chain). So, I then proceeded to hammer the oil pump shaft in to the synchro. This did lift the synchro another inch, but it wouldn't come loose. Interestingly enough, even lifting the synchro that far, it would still spin when I turned the crank. The gear still mating with the cam? Seemed strange to me. At any rate, I more than likely have bent (Or otherwise damaged) the synchro and I wouldn't risk installing it in my new motor.

edit: added picture for your amusement.
 

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synchronizer

I would soak it with carb cleaner to loosen it up, then pull it out. I would then take it outside and beat mercilessly on it without holding back at all, until I felt better.
Then I would do a victory dance on it.

After that I would probably look around to make sure no one saw me.
 



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pics

Thanks for the laugh 4pointslow! That about sums it up, except I think I'd get even more frustrated trying to get that stupid thing out and end up beating on the whole block. Sometimes its better just to walk away. :)

Last night went much better.

an6 ends and fuel line finished. I'm now an6 from tank to fuel rail. I'm going to stick with the stock fuel rail unless it becomes an issue. I've read that the stock fuel filter is the biggest restriction, but I truly have no clue.

Old pump seal came off, and the new one on unbelievable easy. I owe another thanks to 4pointslow for pointing me to that tool. Awesome!
 

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