My new 347 | Page 21 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie? :eek:

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank :(
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

347 at Ford Strokers.jpg

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Ok, attempt #2 .
I didn't get a picture of where I ran the rtv, but I can assure you its on the correct side of the galley plug this time.

Before running my bead of rtv, I sprayed all sealing surfaces with brake cleaner and wiped excess with clean rag. Then I ran a bead on front and black of the block, leaving a bunch extra at the ends. Then I ran a thinner bead on the lower intake mating surface and ran my finger along it to make it even and smooth. Also, making sure I had good adhesion. I then dropped the lower on the block as fast as possible using guides so it would drop straight down.

Once in place I torqued to 5lbs. Enough rtv squeezed out the back that I was able to just run my finger along the back to smooth it out. I waited about a half hour and torqued to 15lbs. Then I made a run for work.

When I get home tonight, I'll torque to 25lbs, Tomorrow night I'll start the truck.

Sorry for the long in depth on a simple lower intake install, but this has proved to be painful for me. If I have a leak now, I know it won't be from the lower intake.


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Good catch John, that oil galley plug is up under the intake.

The RTV looked about right the last time, the amount, bead size. You want it just tall enough that the intake pulls down into it, with a little bulge out on both sides. I usually smooth out any bigger bulge, and giving it that caulk smoothed surface is a good thing. Just don't push a lot through inward if it's a lot bulging out.

Here's a view of the back of my 347 from my past intention to get an oil source at the back, for a turbo and a sensor to control an external oil pump. I didn't like the tightness of the fitting going through the block there, I couldn't make it as tight as I wanted. I still haven't decided if that is good enough, and the line used to connect the two. It's a good idea, I just haven't worked it out yet.


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shoot me now.

I have a bad feeling that the head will be coming off again.
I'm really hoping its the lower intake again, but I doubt it.

Is there an oil return from the head that goes in to the block? I thought the head oil returns returned oil to the lifter valley.

What is going on here? A crack in the head or block that I am not seeing?

Next step............oil dye and light.


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The head gasket does not seem to cover all of the head to block mating surface.
I have a very bad feeling about this.

Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand works.


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This is the part when bad things happen to good things. Like body panels and glass.

Time to step away from it for a while. Go on vacation / weekend retreat, build a tree house, etc...

When your break is over, have a fresh pair of eyes with you when going after it again. Sometimes a different perspective helps, as your stuck on a certain train of thought.

Is it just on the drivers side ?

That sucks, I've always used the blue fel pro head gaskets but I always sprayed them with copper .

How can a gasket that is shaped incorrectly even be sold? I can see gaskets being used in the wrong application blowing out, but really? ugh.

I just called Mr. Gasket (Who was purchased by Holly 4 months ago). Im told they have no reported incidents of this, but only have 4 months history. Also, I doubt people having issues with them would even call and say anything. Fix it and move on.....again.

No , the cheap ones that you get at the parts store and permatex copper spray , I'll look in the garage and see if I have a set for the part number

I don't have any on my gasket shelf right now , but I know they make the basic style gaskets for a 347 because my friend is running the same motor setup as you but with a vortec in his mustang and he's using the cheap ones with copper spray , the standard size for a 302 I use are fel pro 8548pt2

These should work:
Ford Racing Performance Cylinder Head Gaskets M-6051-A302 I think they are very similar to what you are describing. Finding Permatex 80697 Copper Spray-A-Gasket seems to be a challenge here. Its going to take some calling around.

compressed thickness is .042 compared to .038 of what I'm using. so, for a difference of .04 thickness do I change both head gaskets? I'm thinking not.

I'd be too paranoid about the other side, and yea the copper spray is getting hard to find these days

The other thing I'd look at is the locating dowel under that head, I've had one jam me up before and I've also seen the hole in the head not be quite right ,but most of the time its the dowel or grit under the dowel, just something you can pull the head and check before you decide on gaskets

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The pictures make it look like the block has a small area which is not allowing the cylinder head to seat down all the way.


I thought that or the valve cover gaskets.

I hope you find it soon. Check to be sure the heads are all dry above where you see the oil at the seam, if it was the VC there would be some wetness on the side of the head.