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My new axle (and build-up)

dreamr said:
Thanks for the comments.
I am leaning toward the SOA and it seems y'all agree.
So what are peoples thoughts on the potential for axle wrap with the SOA?

you won't be beating on your rig like I do Mine and I have had no failure from axle wrap so far, but i know I twistem up

Your front eye needs to be lower than your rear eye, I will be working on a traction bar after I get the SAS done.
aftermarket lift springs only last 5 years at best from what the manufactures have said. I just keep getting used explorer springs when mine get tweaked to bad you can get them at pick a part for about $40.
 



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jrgaylor said:
you won't be beating on your rig like I do Mine and I have had no failure from axle wrap so far, but i know I twistem up

Your front eye needs to be lower than your rear eye, I will be working on a traction bar after I get the SAS done.
aftermarket lift springs only last 5 years at best from what the manufactures have said. I just keep getting used explorer springs when mine get tweaked to bad you can get them at pick a part for about $40.

So basicly you're telling me that if i swap my warrior shackles back for the stock pieces as I had planned it should eliminate this concern?
 


















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I should be over around 4.

I'm bringing a case of Hammerite WHITE spray cans for that axel, a case of beer and the 2" Body Lift kit :D

Can't wait to get a little higher :p
 


















How about check some jeep forums. jeepforum.com (?), southernjeeps.org, etc.
 






bmxking5 said:
How about check some jeep forums. jeepforum.com (?), southernjeeps.org, etc.

Yup, I was just hoping there was ya know that super wonderful magnificent CHEAP parts store that you all know about and I can't find :D

I have been lurking on a few jeep forums, but still haven't found the magic store of my dreams :p

It looks like I'll be in to the axle about 1100 before locker :eek:
At least it should be as strong as a d30 can get ;)

The only selectable lockers available are the ARB and The OX both of which have a ridiculous pricetags.

Maybe it'll just get a true trac........................or stay open for a year :D
 






I know of a few super wonderful magnificent CHEAP parts stores that sell Heep parts but I'm not gonna tell you. :D :p

You can also check ebay. ;)
 






bmxking5 said:
I know of a few super wonderful magnificent CHEAP parts stores that sell Heep parts but I'm not gonna tell you. :D :p

That seems to be a common theme with this project :D :(

People with lots of knowledge that they want me to dig out of the murky world of the past rather than sharing. But that's Ok I have a secret that I was asked not to share yet. :D

J/K people are usually quite helpful, I am just never satisfied with my own lack of understanding. :rolleyes:
 






dreamr said:
That seems to be a common theme with this project :D :(

People with lots of knowledge that they want me to dig out of the murky world of the past rather than sharing.
Any of us that know anything about Jeeps don't like to openly admit it on the explorerforum. :o

:p



BTW, I'd say go for the true-trac. . .the best thing short of a true locker. :thumbsup: (plus then you don't go blowing u-joints and stub shafts being locked)
 






Jefe said:
Any of us that know anything about Jeeps don't like to openly admit it on the explorerforum. :o

:p

BTW, I'd say go for the true-trac. . .the best thing short of a true locker. :thumbsup: (plus then you don't go blowing u-joints and stub shafts being locked)

LOL that's funny.

I was just giving y'all a hard time.

As to the true-trac that is a good point regarding the shafts and joints! And it is a lot cheaper than the ARB or OX!!!!
 






Yeah the true trac is awesome man
 






Quick question, and kinda offtopic, but im curious, if wanted to, could those coil pads be cut off and spring perches put on that axle to run Leaf springs? I cant really tell to well from the pics. Also since im sure you did some research, are Dana 30s from a TJ HP also? Thanks

-Caleb
 






Seems to me that it would be quite a bit of work to remove the coil perches and replace them with leaf perches, but it could be done.

As to the HP? here's how it all breaks up courtesy of Jefe.
Depends on the year.
98+ Wrangers (TJ) runs springs but is LP D30,
pre98 wranglers (YJ) run leaves & HP D30.
Cherokees (XJ) are coils and HP D30 till 99 and LP 00-02.
And the Grand Cherokee (ZJ) is coiled LP D30
 






Well ya know I have been slacking of course, but finally I have a few net results that can be seen :D

Of course it's all on the surface.......but to get to the point. I have gone through 4-4" wire wheels and a half dozen smaller dremel wire wheels. It took a considerable amount of time to get 10 years worth of midwest grime and rust off of the axle and components, but for the most part it is completely prettied up :p

I have finished with the complete housing clean-up as well as painting the entire thing. The knuckles and dust shields have met with the same treatment. The axle shaft at first looked a bit had, but an hour with the wire wheel made me realize that they are really in pretty good shape, and likely will not need to be replaced at the present time. I also gave the rotors a nice bit of cleaning and had them turned. In essence that leaves me with a set of calipers needing a bit of cleaning up as well as the steering set-up.

Now I just need to get all the parts in. I have on order currently the ball joints and brake pads. Hopefully this paycheck will leave me with enough spare change to order the new steering u-joints as well as both hub and rotor assemblies that I keep delaying on. Then of course the joints between the tierod and draglink need to be replaced as well as the tierod ends.

The last part and most expensive is the internals (gears,seals,bearings, and etc...) I was considering the Tru-trac for a traction device, but as I have dug into info on it, most feel it will be rather useless with 33 or 35 inch tires. I doubted them, but have been told by many a folk on the jeep boards to just leave it open if I can't afford the ARB at the present time. They claim to speak from experience, and basically say that due to the fact that the Tru-trac tends not to lock up properly with the amount of stress created from the larger tires on a d30, it is not much better than an open differential.

Anyway on to the pictures of my freshly painted parts. Sure looks a hell of a lot better than the first post in this thread :bounce:

20122freshly_painted_axle_003.JPG


20122freshly_painted_axle_005.JPG


20122freshly_painted_axle_004.JPG
 



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I have found completeoffroad.com has had the best prices and low shipping costs for my axle build ups, once you know what parts you want send them a email and ask for there best shipped price :thumbsup:
So when you going to do the swap?
 






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