My New, New 347 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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My New, New 347

I'm abandoning my old thread (My new 347), as the motor has been an epic fail for many reasons.
Against any sane reason, I'm trying again.

Post #1 is a thread with all parts for my own records. I'll keep adding to this as I have the time and know what parts are being used.

New (Used) unmolested factory block from Vroomzoomboom. Thanks Tim!
Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshafts 430234705400 w ESP Armor coat option
Bullet Pistons BF6010-030 - 2618 Forged Flat top w TFS valve reliefs made for power adder applications
Rods -I beam Forged (From Old Motor)
King Pro Series Bearings
Michigan 77 SH1321 Cam Bearings
MEL10688 HV Oil Pump - Block and pump machined to fit under the stock oil pan
FEL-1133SD MLS head Gaskets
PAC-1207X LS Springs (Yes Tim, there is something Cheby going in to my Ford motor)
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers (old build)
HRC911968 Howards link bar lifters
Comp Cam 35-775-8 proposed, may change after head flow number change 35-775-8 - XFI™ Stroker Hydraulic Roller Camshafts, Computer controlled (E.F.I.) with O.E. hydraulic roller cams 1985-95
rollmaster timing set (Hopefully re-usable from old build)
TW170 heads (old build) that will be ported and the chambers softened for boost
push rods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7" (old build)
ARP Head Studs (old build)
Torque converter CircleD SKU:30-09-19 11" 2800 stall triple disk lockup FORD 11" HP Series 4R70 Torque Converter
Trick Flow Track Heat intake (old build)
Cometic C5652-060 intake manifold gasket
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kit 1 54-7904 (old build)
ARP Flexplate Bolt Kit 100-2901 (old build)
PCV Valve EV127A
header gasket remflex 3003


28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)-re-balanced by machinist to 0
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth -re-balanced by machinist to 0

Injector Clinic 650H 62lb injectors
Return style fuel pump canister installed in fuel tank (1998 Explorer)
Another 6an braided line added as a fuel return line
Aeromotive Stealth Electric Fuel Pump 11542 340lph
Aeromotive 13130 fuel regulator
Trick Flow TFS-5158000R fuel rails





 



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Watching and learning.
 






I hope this one is flawless. Those are good parts, I do wonder about the high volume oil pump though. That is harder on the driving shaft, and it pulls more oil from the pan. We don't have any choice for the pan, so we have to work with it. Do you have any space to install an oil accusump system? I'm going to stay with a normal pump, but will have two external filters, over two extra quarts of oil.
 






Good idea to start new thread on new engine.
 






@CDW6212R

I do wonder about the high volume oil pump though. That is harder on the driving shaft, and it pulls more oil from the pan.

Doesn't the block have an internal relief valve? If so the spring could be modified to relive at a lower pressure.
 






It's volume, different from the spring(pressure). I think the pump housing is a bit larger, thus harder to fit in the pan. I recall both of my pans(steel/AL) interfered with the ARP main studs of my 347. I would have a rough time with the steel pan, the AL I could grind a little off in the places it touched. These pans hold about 4.5 quarts, better than old Ford 4 quart pans. But most people change to a bigger pan with a high volume pump, and with baffling etc.

I'd consult with Melling etc, someone who could suggest what pan capacity is proper for their pumps.
 






i was thinking about this tonight at work (instead of working lol). have you told dimas how big (puny) of headers we have?
no problem for the block. your parts are mine. because if im not going to be the fastest explorer in manitoba, you better damn well be! lol
 












I have not said much about the headers.
The reality is that the turbo is my exhaust restriction anyway. The headers are fine for my application.

As far as the oil pump, Don called it. ...Again, its a good idea for the added oiling requirement of the turbo. Don't confuse the high volume pump with the high pressure pump. This pump has a larger gear on it for moving more oil (The reason its a longer pump), but the pump will go in to bypass with the spring pressure at the standard oil pressure. The clearances will be slightly looser on the cam bearings and that is an easy drain path back to the pan. RPM's will be no more than 6200....I seriously doubt I'll have risk of sucking the pan dry.

It turns out that the crank will be a 6 week delay. I knew something was going to go on back order, so I was starting to push the builder a bit harder so we could at least see what we need and get it ordered.

On the plus side, the engine builder just bought an engine dyno. This will allow for way more degree's of freedom with testing stuff. He expects to have it up and running by the time my motor is complete.

The Water/Meth kit is almost installed. I just need to plug in the vac/boost port and wire up the two led's. Then when the motor goes in, I will drill and tap the intake pipe in a location that makes the most sense.

I still have my factory fuel rails, and I'm a bit concerned about it with this build. I'm hoping they will be ok as with the returnless system my fuel pressure is quite a bit higher (65psi, compared to 40psi) and the slightly larger than stock 6an line going to the rails.


This is a slow build, but It's not a problem as long as the crappy car I'm driving holds up. I'm thinking I should add the cost of a CAA membership to the build. lol.
 






funny i was just talking to dimas about being able to pick up you old block and i wouldnt be able to get it until the weekend. thats when he mentioned that he is building a engine dyno. my eyes got big! im also sure his neighbours will love him (for everyone, this guy runs a fully equipped machine shop in his backyard and lives in a rural area but has population around him). as for your rails, i think now is the time to replace them. your going to be well over 400 with this motor (and thats being conservative if you ask me). its kinda like the idea of you going to the oil pump. your not really worried about the pressure, but the volume. you might also want to consider your fuel line as well, and go to a 1/2 steel braided from tank to rail.
 












see what dimas can order first. he's getting me a set of accel 9002c wires (because one broke on me this weekend, and we both know some point down the line we are going to need a wire). as for splitting, that will work or you could have the line go from tank, feeding into one rail, then crossing over to the other rail and dead ending if you know what i am saying
 






Out of boredom, I thought I'd google that cam that's temporarily been spec'd

Its on an aluminum headed 347.
Pretty nasty idle. I feel like I might be crossing a line on a daily driver with that.
 






Ok, then it will be lumper then mine at idle. Btw, ANYTHING can be daily driven if you have the balls to do it
 






As we get closer to cam selection, I'll be re-visiting this. Dimas was saying this is a very street-able, mild cam. lol I'm going to need some convincing.
 






Raise the idle and get the Flowmasters out of there, it'll smooth out. That's the most restrictive muffler anyway, skip that.
 






I'm going to need some convincing.

ooooooooooookey..................

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I decided not to be a cheap *******.
Electronic Fuel Injection - Fuel Rail Kits - Edelbrock, LLC.
These have good reviews and really are not much more than the knock off's.

I'll use the Y adapter above and run a feed to each rail. This maximized flow, and is really no extra effort while I'm installing it any way.
 






I decided not to be a cheap *******.
Electronic Fuel Injection - Fuel Rail Kits - Edelbrock, LLC.
These have good reviews and really are not much more than the knock off's.

I'll use the Y adapter above and run a feed to each rail. This maximized flow, and is really no extra effort while I'm installing it any way.
There was a nice new Aeromotive fuel rail set for $150 on the Corral a week or so back. I thought about it hard, they are $260ish new, and I think the TFS rails are identical but for the black color.
 



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Keep in mind that even $150.00 is quite a bit more is CDN dollars.
$170 CDN for the Edelbrock fits my way over budget (What budget, I refuse to look at the $ spent over the last few years) build better.
 






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