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My Remote tuning Thread

First I want to say I too was one of the people who negelected to budget for tuning in my build. I was convinced I could take care of this myself.

All was going pretty well until I burned a piston.
My financial status also took a dive right as I finished with the original build, so this was a huge blow.
Here we are 3 years later and I finally have the issue resolved. This truck is running so good, and I know I can beat on it and it will take it.
Thanks James-you made this fun again!!

Now you all know me by now-I don't do anything very quickly. In fact, every one of you here can do anything better, and faster than I , if you stop to think about it.

On with the show-

I swapped out all of my original maf stuff for a Lightning Maf sensor, which required I make a new intake tube. Once I had this all figured out, James sent me a tune file and the truck fired right up!
If you aren't familiar with the combination, you can click the "my truck" link in my sig.

basically -the only thing stock under my hood is the timing cover, water pump, and oil pan.
The camshaft has a fairly aggressive grind profile. Not to mention This engine is 5.6 liters instead of 5.0. This alone will give a stock PCM fits-


James had to have pulled this original tune right from his head. We both expected the truck to run like crap but it actually ran very well.

After a few drive ability tunes-it was time for the WOT part to begin. I attempted to install my innovative wide band o2 sensor, but somehow it got messed up. While I waited for the replacement, James was more than happy to play around with the surging issue I was experiencing.

The wide band arrived, and while it was a hassle to install, the information it gives is more than worth it.

Now it gets fun (for the tuner--nerve racking for me)

You must have full , complete trust in the person you are working with for this step. There is no room for wimping out, as if you let up, or don't get a good pull, you need to do it all over again.


I was able to get a good "high load" pull by starting from a dead stop, in 2nd gear.
You must floor it, no easing in, --
Hold it mashed to the floor until it hits the rev limiter James has set in for you based on the information you have provided. In my case this was 6000 RPM's

So, 2nd gear, dead stop-
start the sct live link logging software.
Once the screen comes up-nail it and hang on. all the way up to 85 MPH.

Then stop the log, head home and send an email to James.
After he looks it over, and does a bit of his magic, he sends back another tune file.

The old tune files are deleted, the new one is flashed into the pcm, and another pull is run.
I started to send him logs of launches from 1st gear also. I noticed the transmission shifting way too early. I mentioned this and the next tune not only had the a/f corrections for the next wot pull, but the shift points were raised to 5500 RPM's ( as indicated by the factory tach)
I then mentioned the Truck not hooking well,
After only 8 successful pulls ( total), James handed me the keys to the final tune file today.









Yes it was windy-but I think you get the idea.

All in all I must say-I am very pleased with James' service. He truly knows his stuff.
This has been the most rewarding part of the whole modding experience -
I know my truck runs great-and, I know it is going to stay together.

This is meant to be a discussion thread. If you want to see screen shots, or , if you have the sct live link software and would like to see a few logs-let me know. I think James is going to poke his head in here to show what he did. I didn't ask much. I was too busy following instructions:D
 



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I counted close to 7-8 sec 0-60 mph, that would translate to 15 flat at about 95mph in the 1/4? if it doesnt redline. I would keep it in 2WD? On the other hand if you still had AWD:D
 



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I counted close to 7-8 sec 0-60 mph, that would translate to 15 flat at about 95mph in the 1/4? if it doesnt redline. I would keep it in 2WD? On the other hand if you still had AWD:D

I would hope that it would run faster than that, I'm running about a 15.9 right now and he's making a whole lot more power than I am
 






I know when I had a rental Dodge Durange-O 5.9 it screamed in 4X4 low off the line and knocked off about 1 sec 0-60 then shifted on the fly into 2wd high, after a while the transfer case made funny grinding noises, so strange. If you cant shift on the fly into 2WD high theres way too much drag once you start rolling, not to mention wear and tear either way, 4X4 on dry pavement or shifting on the go especially under WOT.
 






Even if you turn the knob back to HI range while in motion, the transfer case's computer just sits there saying 'nuh uh'. Unlike transmissions, tranfer case HI and LO gears are not synchronized so shifting them between these two phases will almost certainly result in damage.
 






Even if you turn the knob back to HI range while in motion, the transfer case's computer just sits there saying 'nuh uh'. Unlike transmissions, tranfer case HI and LO gears are not synchronized so shifting them between these two phases will almost certainly result in damage.

Iz, I believe the 4406 is syncronized-

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179198&highlight=4406+shifting

I know I can shift it while moving-between 2 hi and 4 hi all day long. It is completely manual, with only a position sensor.
 






I know when I had a rental Dodge Durange-O 5.9 it screamed in 4X4 low off the line and knocked off about 1 sec 0-60 then shifted on the fly into 2wd high, after a while the transfer case made funny grinding noises, so strange. If you cant shift on the fly into 2WD high theres way too much drag once you start rolling, not to mention wear and tear either way, 4X4 on dry pavement or shifting on the go especially under WOT.

And to think, people actually buy those used rental cars :D
 






Iz, I believe the 4406 is syncronized-

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179198&highlight=4406+shifting

I know I can shift it while moving-between 2 hi and 4 hi all day long. It is completely manual, with only a position sensor.
Well switching to 2HI and 4HI doesnt need synchronization because there should be no speed difference between the two output shafts (provided you're not making a tight turn while engaging 4HI).

The problem is in LO gear -- the difference is not between the two output shafts but rather the speed between the output shafts and the transmission. With a LO gear ratio of somewhere near the mid 2.x, that means the transmission side of the engagement has to spun up 2.x times more than the outputs. Could one shift from HI to LO? Yes it is probably possible but its like slamming gears on a non sync'd transmission -- you have to do it quick and hope the teeths line up right. But do it enough times and chances are, there will be a bit more metal fragments at the next oil flush.

I know, I know .. I'm probably taking this further than we should :D. But I'd like to state that its a bad idea to shift between the two ranges (HI/LO) while in motion.
 






And to think, people actually buy those used rental cars :D

rental SUV, plus I passed the age limit for rental trucks in place ;),that thing was a piece, the resonace on the highway was unreal with the windows open a certain amount, even 4" past a point gave the thing the shakes...good work dodge. After being bored with the Durange-O and odd problems that started to occur I switched to a Dodge Inrepid?. Manual shifting the auto trans I could get a 2nd gear chirp while carefully manipulating the throttle(floor it release just before a shift and give it to the floor was the technique I believe), after awhile it started to slip into 2nd and the drive belts squacked maybe from glazing because of the timing retard they use on shifts, so strange on a 3K vehicle :confused:. Anyone want to let me borrow their car I want to try something :D
 






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