Need a darn good ground for amps. where? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need a darn good ground for amps. where?

Supergumby5000

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Joined
June 16, 2005
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City, State
Poulsbo, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT
I want to find a strong ground for my amps. I have a hifonics XX-Hercules (2000wRMS @ 1 ohm) and a little alpine 4ch amp (i think 50x4 RMS). Where's a good spot to ground a lot of power? I was going to just drill a hole through the chassis under where the rear seats fold, and just sand and bolt. Are there any other reccomendations you guys have for a strong ground?

I am only running one battery, and its up front (kinetik 2400). Theres no room in the back now, so i cant get away with grounding to the battery that easily :rolleyes:
 



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I'd say pretty much anywhere that's a thick, stout chunk of metal would do if its sanded free of paint, and the ground wire is on there solid. Some people like to have all their amps grounded at the same point, and usually with as short of a ground wire as possible. Some even advocate drilling through the body to run the ground point to a bolt on the frame, but that may be overkill for your install. I'm sure some of the guys on here with big setups will have a few location ideas for you too.
 






i have 10" jl w6s and a kenwood 1000 watt amp... i ground out to the metal seat frame havent had any problems!
 












i use a body mount bolt where the flap folds behind the rear seats.
 






I ran my ground from my grounding block to the frame (after grinding frame to bare metal) using 1/0 gauge wire. Least resistance possible.

like running amp to ground spot on chassis, then running that ground to the body? I got a few extra feet of 1/0ga wire sittin here. Would grounding to the chassis be enough? would running from my chassis ground to the frame benefit?
 






If the total amperage is less than about 25 amps, you can do fine by grounding to the chassis. The power will go through the factory wiring to the battery then. The rear seat front mounting studs are excellent grounds, use a large ring terminal.

If you push above that, you should provide a separate ground path from the OEM wiring. You could ground to the chassis still, but also run a ground from under the chassis to the frame and battery. For high end stereo a single ground wire should connect components(like amp ground to battery ground). If you aren't competing, then it should be not much inferior to have a wire to chassis, wire to frame, and a wire from frame to battery.

It's all about the total added circuit amps, and the need for perfectly clean power. Every vehicle is different, so each person should choose what is actually needed for theirs. Good luck,
 






If the total amperage is less than about 25 amps, you can do fine by grounding to the chassis. The power will go through the factory wiring to the battery then. The rear seat front mounting studs are excellent grounds, use a large ring terminal.

If you push above that, you should provide a separate ground path from the OEM wiring. You could ground to the chassis still, but also run a ground from under the chassis to the frame and battery. For high end stereo a single ground wire should connect components(like amp ground to battery ground). If you aren't competing, then it should be not much inferior to have a wire to chassis, wire to frame, and a wire from frame to battery.

It's all about the total added circuit amps, and the need for perfectly clean power. Every vehicle is different, so each person should choose what is actually needed for theirs. Good luck,

That helps a lot. thanks. I have a 1/0ga ground from battery to frame, so i guess i'll just run another ground from chassis to frame.
 






like running amp to ground spot on chassis, then running that ground to the body? I got a few extra feet of 1/0ga wire sittin here. Would grounding to the chassis be enough? would running from my chassis ground to the frame benefit?

I've got three amps, they all come together at a single point inside the truck. From that point I ran 1/0awg wire to the chassis (that rust doesn't look to good :( ):

DSC03137.jpg


Then I also used 1/0awg wire to connect the battery ground to the chassis:

DSC03138.jpg


Pretty much just like CDW6212R said.
 






Well done. My work truck is about reliability and a few minor circuits. My only big thing will be a 30 amp compressor, so I made little changes, and a 170A alternator.

Since my truck had been rolled the battery cable was cut. I used that OEM cable to connect the frame to the radiator support. Then I bought a cable to replace the original ground cable. I ran two 8ga. wires along the frame for the compressor, plus solenoid and 50amp circuit breaker.

Try to not add power to the original circuits(grounds etc.) Regards,
 

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With that much power it will be drawing around 150-160 amps. I would recommend upgrading grounds under the hood, like from battery to chassis, to engine block and frame. All power cable should be of equal size.
 






For that much power yes, do it like mine. I have dedicated ground wires for all main parts, I was just aiming for an extra 30 amp circuit though, plus engine fan and strobe lights.
 






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