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Need better brakes!

ncyrider

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December 8, 2013
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Sport Trac 4WD
The brakes on my 01 ST are very weak. I know they need to be bled, and I want to replace the rear drum brakes with discs, but I don't want to spend that much on it right now. So I'm just going to do the front, and I want to install new discs/pads when I bleed them. I heard slotted/drilled rotors can help, and I've been looking at getting something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKWGG6...TF8&colid=3R6S14MWXAM0J&coliid=I34UPNN0U340SS

Will these kind of rotors help braking performance at all? I don't care if they might wear out the pads faster, I just want something better than stock. I use my truck to tow trailers and drive down steep grades sometimes, so even just the better cooling of these discs would help.
If I get them, should I go ahead and get this PowerStop kit, or look at something from another brand, like Raybestos? I might stick with ceramic pads too.
 



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I seen another thread on brakes a couple months back that mentioned slotted ok drilled bad. I think it said the drilled are likely to crack but could be wrong. I would look at rock auto 1st to get the pn and see which you would prefer, they have it broken down by economy/daily/heavy ( something like that). Look at the stuff under heavy and either buy there or try cross reference to Amazon for the same part. That's what I did, got ceramic brakes and rotors but have still yet to install
 






Drilled are good for the streets. I replaced the front on my dad's 03 Monte Carlo with drilled/slotted and they made world of difference. That was after warping 2 sets of normal rotors from running fire calls and commuting in northern VA for years.

The problem with drilled comes when you do a lot of offroading with mud and water. This is when drilled rotors are more prone to cracking. However, on the street, I would take drilled and slotted.

The brakes we got were Baer. EBC is also high quality and I've heard nothing but good things but they are pricey. I can't speak to any other brands though.
 






Whatever you decide to get...FLUSH the entire brake system if it's been awhile(3 years or more) at ALL wheels. You will notice a great improvement no matter what pads/rotors you have on there. :thumbsup: Any moisture that has gotten into the brake fluid(this happens naturally-through a small hole in the master cylinder cap) over time will greatly reduce your stopping power and brake pedal feel.
 






I also have an 01 ST 4wd I tow my Cobra with.

The brakes are OK empty, but when loaded or towing, it is ponderous and long. I have experimented with different front pads, including HAWk hi-temps, still looking for better performance too.

I will bleed, it has been a while. Would a high-temp fluid help? DOT 3 or 4?

My truck has 225K, so no disc conversion.
 












The downside to drilled and or slotted rotors offroading is when you get mud, rocks and other debris in the holes or channels it destroys the pads as well as the rotors. I ran drilled and slotted rotors and they didn't last long at all, they also rusted out extremely fast from the inside out.

What trailers do you pull, do they have brakes on them? I hauled and towed everything under the sun with my '03 ST XLT 4wd and you just have to go slower and give a lot more distance for stopping, slowing down and emergencies. Trailer brake controllers are great helpers. It'll make a big difference if you get stainless steel braided brake lines/ hoses front and rear.
 






Yes, replaced the trailer brakes, what a difference!!!!

From my racing experience, I prefer stock-style rotors, as they handle the heat the best, and are least prone to damage or failure.
 






I will flush the brake system out. My Sport Trac is 4X4, and I do off-road it, so I will not get drilled rotors. But slotted are okay for off-road?

These are the only 4wd slotted rotors I've found so far (Rock Auto part #)...
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Slot-12...0582&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=centric+12665082SR

I've seen slotted on a few rigs. No cross-drilled rotors though. If you are planning on hitting the trails frequently I would go with normal style rotors. Less prone to damage and cheaper to replace.
 






The downside to drilled and or slotted rotors offroading is when you get mud, rocks and other debris in the holes or channels it destroys the pads as well as the rotors. I ran drilled and slotted rotors and they didn't last long at all, they also rusted out extremely fast from the inside out.

What trailers do you pull, do they have brakes on them? I hauled and towed everything under the sun with my '03 ST XLT 4wd and you just have to go slower and give a lot more distance for stopping, slowing down and emergencies. Trailer brake controllers are great helpers. It'll make a big difference if you get stainless steel braided brake lines/ hoses front and rear.

What difference is noticed with the ss brake hose? That's the 1-2 foot line in the fender well connected to the caliper right. Is that something relatively easy, was wondering what else I should do on my brakes also, def. needs a flush
 












Oem rubber hoses expand and give up a percentage of hydraulic pressure where as the SS braided lines are sleeved in SS braids that don't allow the the rubber hoses to expand too much. They last years longer, protect the rubber hose from debris, elements and dry rot. I've used them on my drag cars and show/drift truck and will be using them on my Trac after my SAS.
 






SS lines allowed me to use my stock master cylinder after my SAS even though the lines are 8" longer than stock lines. Brake pedal feel is about the same as it was before the swap, so I'm sure the pedal would be much firmer if you are just doing a direct replacement. If you're thinking about doing a flush, now is the time to replace the lines too.
 






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