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Need Help 94 XLT overheating problem

Zelix

Member
Joined
November 19, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Georgia
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Explorer
I have had the radiator,and rusted out freeze plugs replaced at a repair shop. It still runs hot. I have since bought a JEEP so I don't have to drive the EXplorere. I have a ton of money in the vehicle and want to keep it. It is a nice ride for trips.

I am thinking of replacing the water pump, head gaskets, getting the heads professionally shaved.

What other water related items should I be looking at?
Thanks in advance..


BTW: I'm not good at mechanicing, but I have people in the know on stand-by to help if needed.
 



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Has the thermostat been replaced or checked? This could cause it to overheat. Check your oil to see if there it looks like chocolate milk. This would be a good indication of a bad head gasket.
 






Has the thermostat been replaced or checked? This could cause it to overheat. Check your oil to see if there it looks like chocolate milk. This would be a good indication of a bad head gasket.

The themostate was replaced ( if the radiator dude actually did it, charged me for it) with the radiator.

I'll check the oil. We done a cylinder compression test and found good compression on all the cylinders. It's kind of a mystery.

What would cause freeze plugs to rust out? I'd never heard of that before.
 






Try flushing the cooling system. You'll be amazed at the amount of debris that gets trapped inside there. Also, invest in a $5 dollar can of black light dye. Run in through the cooling system to check for small leaks. I had an overheating problem for about 2 years. It turned out to be the lower intake gasket. As for your freeze plugs rusting, note that it is common in cold climates. I live in Michigan, where they salt the roads all winter long and I've seen freeze plugs rust quite a few times. Since brass is a form of metal, it is susceptible to rust. They can also work their way out of the engine block if there is any water (not glycol) in the cooling system. The water freezes and slowly ejects the plug from the bore.
 






Try flushing the cooling system. You'll be amazed at the amount of debris that gets trapped inside there. Also, invest in a $5 dollar can of black light dye. Run in through the cooling system to check for small leaks. I had an overheating problem for about 2 years. It turned out to be the lower intake gasket. As for your freeze plugs rusting, note that it is common in cold climates. I live in Michigan, where they salt the roads all winter long and I've seen freeze plugs rust quite a few times. Since brass is a form of metal, it is susceptible to rust. They can also work their way out of the engine block if there is any water (not glycol) in the cooling system. The water freezes and slowly ejects the plug from the bore.

The cooling system was been flushed. I had a new radiator put in as well. Should I flush it again?

It rarely gets freezing here. I live in the south which is why I found it unusual. I guess that's the risk one takes with a used vehicle. It was well maintained according to the previous owner.

I'll try the black light dye.

thanks.
 






Was it a new radiator that was installed, or was it out of the bone yard? An easy way to check your radiator for leaks is to simply disconnect the top and bottom hoses, plug the holes (with what, I'm not sure. Be creative), and fill it with water. If it doesn't leak, your radiator is good.
 






Was it a new radiator that was installed, or was it out of the bone yard? An easy way to check your radiator for leaks is to simply disconnect the top and bottom hoses, plug the holes (with what, I'm not sure. Be creative), and fill it with water. If it doesn't leak, your radiator is good.

Brand new. I had the old one repaired with the gaskets on the plastic side tanks.. it kept leaking so I just went to a new shop and got a new radiator.
 






Did the freeze plug come out of the motor? Usualy you never have to replace those unless they fall out due to running water in the truck and having the water freeze on you.
 






Check the fan clutch, I had a similar problem, I replaced both raditor hoses, because my truck got hot and blew the top one, then replaced the thermostat, and it still overheated, but only when I took it off road. One day I was out playing in the sand, and it got hot, so I parked it and the radiator blew up, talking a 3X11" hole in the side, well I replaced the radiator and checked the fan clutch at this point and the it wasn't even blowing. After I replaced the fan clutch I never had an overheating problem, and I know my heads are warped, and I have a dead cylinder.
 






jfman said:
Did the freeze plug come out of the motor? Usualy you never have to replace those unless they fall out due to running water in the truck and having the water freeze on you.

No they were still there leaking from rust. I thought it was unusual as well. It didn't make sense that they would rust out to me.


Check the fan clutch, I had a similar problem, I replaced both raditor hoses, because my truck got hot and blew the top one, then replaced the thermostat, and it still overheated, but only when I took it off road. One day I was out playing in the sand, and it got hot, so I parked it and the radiator blew up, talking a 3X11" hole in the side, well I replaced the radiator and checked the fan clutch at this point and the it wasn't even blowing. After I replaced the fan clutch I never had an overheating problem, and I know my heads are warped, and I have a dead cylinder.

I will try to look up what a fan clutch is and check it out. It would great if it was something small.

Thanks for the replies.

Edit: how can I check this fan clutch?
 






Take off your grill and look and see if the tranny cooler is leaking. My tranny cooler was leaking and it left about a quarter inch of sludge on my a/c condensor, so air was only flowing on half the radiator. Use engine degreaser, water, and compressed air to clean the a/c condensor. If the cooler hoses are leaking, better replace them also.
 






Take off your grill and look and see if the tranny cooler is leaking. My tranny cooler was leaking and it left about a quarter inch of sludge on my a/c condensor, so air was only flowing on half the radiator. Use engine degreaser, water, and compressed air to clean the a/c condensor. If the cooler hoses are leaking, better replace them also.

Thanks for the reply. I opened up the hood last nite and saw that the fan had major cracks in it. I went in and took the radiator out and got the fan loose. I'm not sure how to take the fan clutch off . It seems it has to come off to get the fan off. Does that mean the pulley thing that the belt is on has to come off as well? that's also the water pump that it's on if I'm correct. I will just replace it as well whether it's ok or not. I've gone thru the trouble so it will be one less item to worry about. I think I will also replace the water pump. If I'm correct in my thinking that will eliminate all possible problems with the exception of heads and or head gaskets.


here's a picture of the fan:
fanwithcrack.jpg
 






Edit: how can I check this fan clutch?

Crank the truck up and let it warm up. then try to stop the fan blade with a broom. If the blade wont stop then it's good. If it stops easely, replace the clutch.
 






Crank the truck up and let it warm up. then try to stop the fan blade with a broom. If the blade wont stop then it's good. If it stops easely, replace the clutch.

Seriously? sounds kinda dangerous. I guess I should have waited to start working in it.

I've got it almost out of the explorer now. I think I'll just replace it and know for sure. I have to replace the fan anyhoo.

thanks for your help.
 






Seriously? sounds kinda dangerous. I guess I should have waited to start working in it.

I've got it almost out of the explorer now. I think I'll just replace it and know for sure. I have to replace the fan anyhoo.

thanks for your help.

Well if it's the original one it's most likely bad so there you go.
 






Well if it's the original one it's most likely bad so there you go.

I'm not sure, but it's pretty dirty and has funk all on it. I'm praying that this will be the end of my overheating problems.... but knowing my luck it wont. :(

I would have never guessed that a fan clutch would be the problem. I didnt know that there was such a thing.:D I'm not a big mechanical guy but feeling I can tackle more problems since I changed all the electric window bearings. :thumbsup:
 






I'm not sure, but it's pretty dirty and has funk all on it. I'm praying that this will be the end of my overheating problems.... but knowing my luck it wont. :(

I would have never guessed that a fan clutch would be the problem. I didnt know that there was such a thing.:D I'm not a big mechanical guy but feeling I can tackle more problems since I changed all the electric window bearings. :thumbsup:

two of my windows have that problem. Where did you geth the parts? Was it a hard job?


BTW: I just went thru my cooling system on my car and after I replace the rad, the pump and thermo it was still runniing hot in traffic and I put a new clutch an now it' great.
 






two of my windows have that problem. Where did you geth the parts? Was it a hard job?


BTW: I just went thru my cooling system on my car and after I replace the rad, the pump and thermo it was still runniing hot in traffic and I put a new clutch an now it' great.

Here's the great picture essay on how to do it:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145469

It wasn't a very hard job with the knowledge of how to do it. the little help package was $7 here if I recall correctly. They are in the HELP packages section. It takes time to get the window motor out but it only takes a few minutes to replace the bearings.





Last nite I was looking at the Haynes book it wasn't specific enough for me. I'm rather thick headed.:D I'm not sure what they are calling the fan clutch nut.

I took a picture looking down on the fan clutch from the top. Is it the big nut in the center? The fan shroud said it's right hand thread. That means turn it counter clockwise to loosen it?

isthisthenut.jpg

isthisthenut1.jpg


I was reading that there's some special wrench to do this. I will also be taking off and replacing the water pump It's looking like it'll be around $160 for a total fix. Not bad since there's no labor involved....other than mine. :thumbsup:
 






The big nut is the one your lookin for...righty tighty, lefty loosey...

The smaller ones hold the pulley in place I believe..

Most automotive stores can rent you that tool that you need...what I usually use is a big a$$ wrench and a breaker bar...works just the same.
 



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I just replaced my thermostat, water pump, fan, radiator & heater core as well as a full flush. I was in Florida so I had a 180 degree thermo but now in CT I changed to the OEM 198 and the needle stays put right below the N in Normal on the gauge. The project was not a big deal to me and looking forward to lot's more life. I replaced the fan clutch & upper and lower hoses a few months ago as well (not to mention all the other fun stuff over the last few months I replaced). The tool you will need you can get at Advance Auto Parts for about $22 looks like this:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/3136.gif

If you need an excuse to have more tools as well, you will LOVE a set of Ratcheting Wrenches. I bought a full 12 piece metric set (8mm - 19mm) on Amazon for about $73. I LOVE THOSE THINGS and they make repairs "FEEL" easier. :D
 






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