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Need help: Factory sub suddenly sounds horrible

Anthony_

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November 18, 2007
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Year, Model & Trim Level
97 XLT AWD 5.0L
I'm happy to replace it but what do you guys suggest?

I want a direct replacement, no boxes, no wiring amps, just a direct replacement. What can I use? Can I just get one from crutchfield or best buy?

any help would be appriciated. BTW, how do you get the flippin' panel off without breaking it? I got 2 clips undone but the remaining will not give...they're ready to break off but they will not unhook.

:confused:
 



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You trying to remove the whole back panel, or just the subwoofer grill?

If you are removing the whole panel, you can see what it takes in this: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/manualsQuickInstall/thunderforms/FEX10.pdf

The subwoofer grill is held in by tabs and clips. Here is what they look like...

th_grill_tab.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4/toypaseo/explorer sub/grill_tab.jpg

th_clip_thru_tab.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4/toypaseo/explorer sub/clip_thru_tab.jpg

th_grill_clip.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4/toypaseo/explorer sub/grill_clip.jpg
 






Same subwoofer issue...

I might as well join in too, I got a 97 Explorer with the JBL system that I just bought and the subwoofer is blown, (sounds awful). I bought a scrapyard one for $5 that was totally blown, (no sound at all, ohms out at infinite resistance). I bought an extra sub amp too and both my original amp and the newer one put out A/C voltage. Can I just get any aftermarket 6.5" sub and does it matter if it's 4 or 8 ohms? What have you guys bought exactly in the past for this issue?

Dave
 












What kind of budget are you on?
 

























Those are Kicker SSMB's, in case you want to find them elsewhere. If the new CVT's will fit, they'll make for a better subwoofer driver. The MB's are midbasses that just happen to play fairly low. I only paid $75 for the pair of 8's I had, new, from either onlinecarstereo or woofersetc.
 






Ford radio parts link.

Both the 6 and 8 inch subs at the bottom of that link aren't available anymore. What subs (and part numbers) have you guys been replacing your stock 6.5" JBL's with?
 


















I replaced the small OEM one with a 8" 2ohm Kicker Solobaric. The hole in the enclosure was carved out to make it fit. Keep in mind that I originally had no OEM sub. I just added an Alpine amp, Kicker Solobaric in a 91-94 OEM enclosure, PAC OEM-2 converter, and some eBay wiring.

th_Solobaric1.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c4/toypaseo/explorer sub/Solobaric1.jpg

Those can still be purchased new from the factory that built them.
http://credencespeakers.com/Merchan...I&Product_Code=CSS84C&Category_Code=SM_Sealed

It also just happens to be the factory that built the 10's listed in my signature. Made in the USA (Kentucky), and they don't need a bajillion watts to work.
 






Maybe look at www.partsexpress.com. They have 26+ choices in the 6½" size range.

I think the Pyramid WX65 6-1/2" Clear Poly Woofer at $9.45 is the cheapest 6½" they have.

I have purchased from them numerous times, with great service.
 






The Tang Band 6.5" sub would be an excellent choice.
 






98 mounty sub issue

not to hijack the thread, but this problem is along the same lines:
I blew the factory 6.5 sub in my 98 mounty - it's not the jbl, it's the 'mach audio' system....snapped the panel off no problem, took the grille off no problem....disconnected the wires no problem....I can't get the friggin sub out of the enclosure!!!!!!!! I went as far as trying to pry behind it with screwdrivers, bending in the edges and pulling with pliers out of frustration - I could NOT find some hidden mysterious fastener holding it in! (the sub actually will rotate in either way no problem, just won't come out) PLEASE help if anyone has had this problem. Other than that, along with the rest of those in the thread, any recommendations on a direct replacement 6.5 or 8 as far as wattage and ohms are concerned? (i'm sure i'd be able see the ohms IF i ever get the sub out though)
Thanks!
 






There is a 10mm bolt through the rear of the enclosure straight into the driver. I THINK the subs are dual 2, at least the MACH/Shaker 8's are. It will have a sticker on the driver. You won't find a dual 2 ohm 6.5", and the only 8's won't fit, so I suggest getting a small amp along with the new woofer. Check this one out for a real nice replacement.
http://blog.edesignaudio.com/?p=250#more-250

+
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-832
would work well, be cheap, and stay totally hidden in the factory spot. You'd also be able to add a second one if you'd like, and build a box to hide elsewhere.
 






Thanks for all the insight Infinity - that's actually the exact sub I was planning on ordering today. I was waiting to find out about the ohms though...meh.......why oh why a dual 2? I'm not sure my wiring abilities are up to setting up an amp and all (as lame as that might sound)....blah. Thanks though...i'm sure i'll be PM'ing you w/questions when i attempt this undertaking...wish me luck
 






I ended up getting this
p2068C65VT4-f.jpg



Even if it's not the best, it looks like it'll be a direct replacement and function as the old one did at the very least. Which is what I was looking for (ease of replacement).

Anyway, my question is about the factory connectors: They're quick slides (hope that's what they're called). Well, one's fatter than the other...can I assume the fatter one is the Positive?
 



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Congrats on finding a direct replacement Anthony!

Infinity: what are your thoughts on this as a direct replacement for the '98 mach application: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3774

I'm pretty confident that I can mod the box to fit an 8" as others have mentioned....my only concern is the sensativity and rms - any idea as to what the factory amp puts out? thanks again....
 






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