Need help; power steering lines

[TribeZ]

Edit: all on my 2001 V8 limited explorer

Was doing some work today replaced my fan blade finally, drive belt, idle pulley, tension pulley, and my power steering pump/ pulley. I thought I had bought all the power steering pump lines as well but only for the reservoir feed lines to and from the cooler. What I don’t understand and am losing liquid from is where the power steering meets the steering rack. I have a constant leak there blown seal. And when I did my new setup I thought I would get it all running and see how bad the leak still was. Well I might have burned up my brand new power steering pump just trying to get to moved out of my garage to park it for the day. After more looking I am talking about the line from the Power steering pump into the rack. And then the line from the rack to the cooler.

First; how the F do I even get to the power steering lines going into the suspension underneath?

And second, how much more could I have messed up down there if I was driving with very low power steering fluid for a while. Like a week or 6 mile round trips.

Third do I need to have the truck off the ground for proper new pump start up ?

 

[C420sailor]

Especially with the 5.0, it’s a ***** to get to them.

I was replacing my lines and rack, so I cut the lines at the rack.

I remember thinking maybe a line-style crows foot…but I don’t know if those even exist.

Edit: they do exist

 

[TribeZ]

Especially with the 5.0, it’s a bitc* to get to them.

I was replacing my lines and rack, so I cut the lines at the rack.

I remember thinking maybe a line-style crows foot…but I don’t know if those even exist.

Edit: they do exist

Yea my plumber brain thought to just cut the lines to get to the nut with a socket somehow still. I will need to order the correct lines and then look into the crows foot tool. I think its a 18mm I need for those line.

 

[Pete Deering]

Edit: all on my 2001 V8 limited explorer

Was doing some work today replaced my fan blade finally, drive belt, idle pulley, tension pulley, and my power steering pump/ pulley. I thought I had bought all the power steering pump lines as well but only for the reservoir feed lines to and from the cooler. What I don’t understand and am losing liquid from is where the power steering meets the steering rack. I have a constant leak there blown seal. And when I did my new setup I thought I would get it all running and see how bad the leak still was. Well I might have burned up my brand new power steering pump just trying to get to moved out of my garage to park it for the day. After more looking I am talking about the line from the Power steering pump into the rack. And then the line from the rack to the cooler.

First; how the F do I even get to the power steering lines going into the suspension underneath?

And second, how much more could I have messed up down there if I was driving with very low power steering fluid for a while. Like a week or 6 mile round trips.

Third do I need to have the truck off the ground for proper new pump start up ?

1. To remove the line. I remove the the sway bar. You can uses a flare crows foot or cut the line because you are replacing it and uses a socket. If you Rome the lower line first it will give you more room too work. Once break the line loose, you can uses a combination wrench. What every works for you. Just a note, the is a check valve in the pressure line ( high port recessed held in with tag washer. Second you will get a new Teflon O-rings with the high pressure line. Place them in warm water to soften them first, so they don't break). Also steel tube can turn inside the flare nut, that's normal. Don't over tighten, there should a label about that.
2. the Low fluid. I did the same thing. Heard the noise. No problem came from it 4 miles around trip.
3. You need too lift the truck up too give you more access too work on it. When you finish the repairs. It needs too be up too turn the wheels lock too lock too bleed the air out. ( I uses a vacuum bleeder too bleed the system also , not mandatory)
Just another note. You can remove the hose lines to the cooler too get more room too work.

 

[TribeZ]

1. To remove the line. I remove the the sway bar. You can uses a flare crows foot or cut the line because you are replacing it and uses a socket. If you Rome the lower line first it will give you more room too work. Once break the line loose, you can uses a combination wrench. What every works for you. Just a note, the is a check valve in the pressure line ( high port recessed held in with tag washer. Second you will get a new Teflon O-rings with the high pressure line. Place them in warm water to soften them first, so they don't break). Also steel tube can turn inside the flare nut, that's normal. Don't over tighten, there should a label about that.
2. the Low fluid. I did the same thing. Heard the noise. No problem came from it 4 miles around trip.
3. You need too lift the truck up too give you more access too work on it. When you finish the repairs. It needs too be up too turn the wheels lock too lock too bleed the air out. ( I uses a vacuum bleeder too bleed the system also , not mandatory)
Just another note. You can remove the hose lines to the cooler too get more room too work.

Thank you, very helpful. I’ll give an update on Thursday when I get my parts in.

 

[C420sailor]

Also remember the engine will have to be lifted 1-2” to remove the rack on the 5.0

 

[TribeZ]

Also remember the engine will have to be lifted 1-2” to remove the rack on the 5.0

I am currently hoping to do it surgery style and only replace the two lines to the rack. Hopefully I didn’t blow and seals on the rack or mess it up moving the vehicle around the driveway yesterday. Idk why I didn’t just leave it in the garage. I think I was hoping the leak was small and could limp it along for the week.

 

[410Fortune]

The power steering pumps are pretty tough

If youre
I’ve the top right line first it’s easier to get to the high pressure line right below it

I use wrenches and crows foot here

 

[TribeZ]

I won! Used a thin saw and hackzall to cut the old line away at the steering rack. Then a 18m socket had no issue getting in there with a power tool even. Then the real struggle began. I had good luck with the top line for cooler feed. The line from the pump to the steering rack took me 2 hours of threading over and over tell it finally didn’t cross thread and took. Crows foot 18m socket was a life saver. I might have over tightened the lines cuz I did more then hand tight but not by much was just the crows foot for leverage. Power steering still shudder a little in slow full turns but hoping it will fix itself.. I had the pump full and primed but not sure the procedure for bleeding the lines, does the reservoir with the cap off accomplish bleeding ? Felt smooth first few turns off the ground then also shuddered near the full turn on each side.

 

[410Fortune]

To bleed
Put front tires up in the air
Run engine
Turn wheel side to side Slowly
hold at full lock on each side for a few seconds

Air will
Bleed from rack and lines into reservoir
Continue until whining noise stops no more air bubbles and fluid at proper level

If the fluid foams up then you have to let it settle before you can do a full bleed and final level check

Nice work this far! Love my crows feet!!