Need more stopping power

[Karpiel73]

I have an '01 EX Sport and I recently got a 6x12 enclosed trailer to haul some things. It has no problem pulling the trailer but the thought of having to stop quickly is always in the back of my head. I have 20" wheels on it so clearance won't be an issue. But does anyone know where I can get oversize rotors and mounting brackets to use the stock calipers? I'd appreciate any answer. Thanks. I'll post pictures of my EX and the trailer when I can get them off my camera.

My Ex. before i got my trailer, and after.

 

[SkyJumper]

Swap out the stockers with slotted hi-po rotors and a great ceramic pad, then you should be good to go. If you go to a larger rotor diameter, it will need new calipers to go with as it will require bigger pads.

 

[Karpiel73]

Thanks for the info. I'll check into it.

 

[techieman33]

powerslot rotors and hawk pads are the way to go. You could go with a 12" rotor in the front if you swap out your front knuckles with sport track kunckles, everything else is the same. Just swap the knuckles and the rotor.

 

[wpurple]

Does the trailer have brakes?

 

[rhauf]

the only thing upgrading the brakes on the explorer will help with is break over-heating (while riding the brakes down a hill until you reach brake fade) you're stopping power is going to be limited by the traction of the tires, If you're stock brakes are working correctly i can pretty much guarantee you that they'll lock the tires long before they have an issue with stopping power.

if you want to stop the trailer quicker, add trailer brakes... if you're trailer has a lot of tongue weight then it might benefit you to have an adjustable portioning valve so you can turn up the rear breaks while towing (so the front's dont lock up prematurely)

if you're hauling over 2,000LB you're required (in ca at least) to have brakes on the trailer, it looks like you're trailer is pretty light, and you shouldn't be loading it up with more than a ton anyhow since it's only a single axle. so i think you're fine.

but the bottom line is, you're towing a trailer, you're going to need to drive more carefully, and always allow more room to stop or steer.

i've towed full size trucks on a large trailer behind my stock first gen explorer... with no brakes on the trailer... it works fine i just drive very carefully and allow a ton of stopping room at all times. that of course is an extreme example.

 

[Karpiel73]

Thanks for the responses. The trailer doesn't have brakes but I'm looking into it but I'm looking into it because that'd be ideal. I just want to take alot of the strain off my explorer. Thanks ya'll

 

[rhauf]

one recommendation i would make would be quality brake pads.. they are important for towing, brake fade sucks...

get the expensive ceramic pads and you'll be fine.

 

[pabille]

powerslot rotors and hawk pads are the way to go. You could go with a 12" rotor in the front if you swap out your front knuckles with sport track kunckles, everything else is the same. Just swap the knuckles and the rotor.

Yep, Powerslots and Hawks did the trick. It was scary without them.

 

[C5 Pewter Coupe]

I tow a 26 ultra light travel trailer behind my Explorer Sport, it had trailer brakes on all 4 wheels and I have a brake controller in my Ex.. no way would I pull a load behind it without having trailer brakes.. you definitely need to get trailer brakes on your trailer....

 

[blakshukvw]

powerslot rotors and hawk pads are the way to go. You could go with a 12" rotor in the front if you swap out your front knuckles with sport track kunckles, everything else is the same. Just swap the knuckles and the rotor.

How do your rotors fair with the Hawks on them? Warping? Cracks? I have Hawks on my Sentra and they work awesome and have been pretty good to the rotors too over time although that car don't weigh ****.

 

[pwrshft99]

From the Mustang world I can tell you replacing the factory rubber hoses with braided steel pieces will make a dramatic difference in pedal feel.

I haven't looked into a set for my ex yet..

 

[cerberusaardvark]

if you are swapping out to a 12 in. rotor from the sports track, wouldnt you need new ball joints, calipers, and pads in addition to the sports track knuckles?

 

[techieman33]

if you are swapping out to a 12 in. rotor from the sports track, wouldnt you need new ball joints, calipers, and pads in addition to the sports track knuckles?

No, knuckle is the same the caliper bracket mounting holes are just in a different location.

 

[66427]

I went with PowerStop (different from power slot) cross drilled rotors with Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads.

Alot of people say the cross drilled will warp, but I have had them for 85,000 miles and they are fine. I lean on them pretty heavy as well.

Google Carbon Ceramic vs Carbon Metallic and you will see, with decent pads they are similar until they get hot, then the metallic has an advantege in retaining stopping power.