Here is a thread that mentions the Bilstein shocks.
Steeda vs Bilstein shocks and struts
Bilsteins engineers will email you if you have a question.
Peter
I was looking for Bilstein but nationwide back order with unknown Return. I was able to get HD for the Rear but Nationwide possible worldwide back order for the Fronts both B4 (OEM) and B6 (HD)
I wound up keeping and installing the Bilstein Rears but with unknown ETA I went with Monroe's for the Front. This worked out good because Monroe sells as a Quick Strut Assembly. I would have sucked up the having to transfer over the Front Coil Spring's if I could have found Bilstein fronts. Monroe QSA was probably one of the easiest strut replacements I have ever done. Simple, raise vehicle, remove wheels, four upper mounting bolts, two lower, the sway bar link (Lower middle of strut housing) Took a little bit but NO COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR Involved, which my head thanks me very much. It is a bit of work for one person, there is some minor tweaking of the strut compression/extension levels to get the tension off the Sway bar Link nut for removal/installation but can be done. I used a four ton Daytona Axle Jack, 4 ton Jack stands and my SAFEJACKS.
I would recommend two persons, but I was able to work it with one. The second person can come in handy mainly during the installation to help starting the upper retaining nuts while the lower person guides it through. They can also help tweak the axle jack for setting the sway bar link nut. The rest of the time they can be a safety observer.
There are not a lot of complicated tools involved, normal wrenches, breaker bars, a decent hammer to help push the lower bolts through. The biggest obstacle will be the inboard aft upper mounting nut. The stud will slide in, and the nut will thread on but the space is tight for traditional sockets. I believe I used a 15mm ratchet wrench and expect to make only about 1/4-1/2 turns at a time. Rear INBOARD Only The outboard rear nut and forward nuts are fine. I believe I had to remove the cowling trim panel but follow the pattern and you will be fine. This is the same engine layout as my 2014 Taurus SHO but on that one I was able to remove the strut tower cross brace which the Explorer doesn't have.
Same rules as any other major suspension/brake work. One side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference. Also Ensure the wheels stay in the air the entire time. When the steering knuckle goes back into the new strut there is some adjustments to get the bolts lined up. If you leave weight on one wheel it maybe possible to pull the CV Axle out of the transmission housing. There is also the possibility of not having enough slack in the axle and the CV Joint dust boot will Tear, and obviously sling the axle grease EVERYWHERE.....except in the axle where it is supposed to be. Different vehicle but concept still applies and about a $200 lesson learned on that one.
BIGGEST INSTALL NOTE........Ensure the upper mounting nuts are tightened Twice. Once for initial tightening but when the vehicle gets off jacks and weight gets back on the wheels they will have to be tightened and torqued again. Commonly called Pre Load (weight OFF wheels) and load (Weight ON Wheels) DO NOT TOUCH THE CENTER UPPER NUT. Just in case you are tempted and want to ignore the safety sticker that is provided with the QSA. I garauntee you will only do it once.
I personally recommend Bilstein B6 (HD If you are able to get them but Monroe QSA and Gabriel are two decent alternatives. Preferably a QSA if available, the added cost of purchasing the QSA should be offset by the reduced labor and risk of having to transfer the coil spring to the new strut assembly.
