Need to cover my bases for TM header install

[fordsRfun]

Hey guys!
I am in Anchorage AK and am going to be ordering some TM headers and doing the install myself. I have read every thread on here regarding installation (2-3 times) and yet I still have a few questions!
Given my location it can take weeks, literally, to get parts up here. Which is why I am trying to put together an o' **** list of parts to have ON HAND when something breaks or needs to be cut. So far I have the connector bolts where the exhaust & header marry and I will be getting an EGR hose from TM so that is off the list. I know that I am missing at least one or two things, what might they be?
Lastly, I have seen some folks taking off thier upper intake when installing the headers, why?

 

[Turdle]

I think Most are also installing the 1" trick flow phenolic heat spacer. Considering the cost I feel it is a good time to do this.

This will make the header install much easier, by giving you much more room to work.
There is a 3 way vacuum T which will often break-so I would have one on hand. I would also have a tube of ultra copper gasket sealer for the collector flanges, and I also used some on the #5 tube gasket flange

Allow yourself plenty of time. It will go much faster if you aren't rushing things.

Serious, plan on a 2 day down time.

 

[fordsRfun]

I think Most are also installing the 1" trick flow phenolic heat spacer. Considering the cost I feel it is a good time to do this.

This will make the header install much easier, by giving you much more room to work.
There is a 3 way vacuum T which will often break-so I would have one on hand. I would also have a tube of ultra copper gasket sealer for the collector flanges, and I also used some on the #5 tube gasket flange

Allow yourself plenty of time. It will go much faster if you aren't rushing things.

Serious, plan on a 2 day down time.

So that is why ppl are taking off the upper intake...more room! I believe this is the heat spacer you are referring to.? http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51520008&autoview=sku

 

[techieman33]

This is the spacer that you need
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51520018&autoview=sku
Are you sure you need to egr tube? I think you should have internal egr so it shouldn't be affected by the headers

 

[fordsRfun]

This is the spacer that you need
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS-51520018&autoview=sku
Are you sure you need to egr tube? I think you should have internal egr so it shouldn't be affected by the headers

Thanks!!
It is a late model 97, July manf. date, which really makes it a 98 when it comes to parts. Yes, I am sure that I need an EGR tube because mine is cracked waaaa

 

[rizzjc]

I've got an EGR tube in mint condition! PM me if interested.

I have not done the headers, but I did just do the spacer. Once I got that darn top plate off, it was much easier than I thought it would be. Let me know if you need some tips. I came up with a pretty good way to put it back all in one piece, mostly by myself.

 

[Cobraguy]

Wait! If you are going to install TM headers, and you are going to install a phenolic spacer, you MUST let Bob know prior to ordering. He has to bend and build the tube for you...and he will build it according to whatever spacer you use...or don't use.

Unless you want to bend up your own...which I don't recommend. Just let Bob do it for you. It will fit perfectly when you get it that way.

Edit: Also, you will need a bottle of anti-seize. In my experienced opinion, do NOT use loctite (as will be suggested) on your exhaust system! First, it may become too hot to be useful as loctite releases under heat. But if it does hold, you don't want bolts seized to the head or header if you have to disassemble everything in the future. I have never used loctite on a header bolt and I don't have leaks. I use antiseize, tighten them about three times through heat cycles, and they hold just fine. And I can take the bolts out next time.

Which reminds me...have access to a propane torch and easy outs just in case. Long extensions and wobble sockets help immensely. I installed one set while the a/c evap box was removed for an evaporator replacement. I could not believe how easy it was to install the right header that way. Consider that if things get tough on that side as the box can be removed in about half an hour.

When it says to loosen the top two motor mount bolts on the right side so you can lift the motor...DON'T! Go under the truck and loosen the bottom mount bolt instead. You can reach that with an extension and wobble socket. Loosen it so the nut is still held by a couple of threads. You will not believe how much easier and faster that is. I'm not kidding...this will get you past what I think is the worst part of the job. Those two nuts are the biggest pain in the ass I ever saw. Do the lower instead.

 

[fordsRfun]

Wait! If you are going to install TM headers, and you are going to install a phenolic spacer, you MUST let Bob know prior to ordering. He has to bend and build the tube for you...and he will build it according to whatever spacer you use...or don't use.

Unless you want to bend up your own...which I don't recommend. Just let Bob do it for you. It will fit perfectly when you get it that way.

Edit: Also, you will need a bottle of anti-seize. In my experienced opinion, do NOT use loctite (as will be suggested) on your exhaust system! First, it may become too hot to be useful as loctite releases under heat. But if it does hold, you don't want bolts seized to the head or header if you have to disassemble everything in the future. I have never used loctite on a header bolt and I don't have leaks. I use antiseize, tighten them about three times through heat cycles, and they hold just fine. And I can take the bolts out next time.

Which reminds me...have access to a propane torch and easy outs just in case. Long extensions and wobble sockets help immensely. I installed one set while the a/c evap box was removed for an evaporator replacement. I could not believe how easy it was to install the right header that way. Consider that if things get tough on that side as the box can be removed in about half an hour.

When it says to loosen the top two motor mount bolts on the right side so you can lift the motor...DON'T! Go under the truck and loosen the bottom mount bolt instead. You can reach that with an extension and wobble socket. Loosen it so the nut is still held by a couple of threads. You will not believe how much easier and faster that is. I'm not kidding...this will get you past what I think is the worst part of the job. Those two nuts are the biggest pain in the ass I ever saw. Do the lower instead.

Thanks for the info Cobra! Anyone else use the bottom mount bolts instead??

 

[techieman33]

Yeah we used the bottom bolt on my install as well as Tekman05's

 

[Turdle]

Yup-don't remove them, just loosen them. Use a punch of some type to line the holes back up if you do need to remove them completely for the needed space.

Oh
I think Chriswells98 has an extended egr tube for sale for a good price. Check his for sale thread-

edit--

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191637

 

[Cobraguy]

I actually told Bob about the lower nut instead of the two uppers and how he should change his instructions. I don't know if he ever has. He and I aren't getting along very well right now, so he may not be listening to me.

 

[fordsRfun]

Slacker

I have been slacking on getting my TM headers and trick flow phenolic heat spacer tackled. I plan on doing the work at the auto hobby shop on base...I am by no means a mechanic but feel that I should be able to get the job done with some help from the mechanics at the shop. Has anyone in the Anchorage area performed these upgrades? Also has anyone installed the headers with the new gasket provided by TM is everyone still buying after market??