Needed in knowing the easiest way to remove the back bolt on the intake manifold | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Needed in knowing the easiest way to remove the back bolt on the intake manifold

Joined
September 24, 2017
Messages
10
Reaction score
2
City, State
Kearny New jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 explorer xlt 4.0
Hello Everyone,
I own a 2004 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 6 cyl. last month I got a check eng light and came up as 193 a fuel pressure sensor needed to be replaced. The fun part was trying to find the part other than the Ford Dealership I found one and started removing all the parts to get to it and replace it! Now this is where my problems start how do you remove the last bolt on the manifold in the back by the firewall the inside one I can feel it and somewhat see it but cant get the tork to stay on it and don't want to strip it and make my day. Like everything there is an easy way to do it just wondering if anyone knows the secret? My Wife is going nuts with me on using her new car going to work.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Hello Everyone,
I own a 2004 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 6 cyl. last month I got a check eng light and came up as 193 a fuel pressure sensor needed to be replaced. The fun part was trying to find the part other than the Ford Dealership I found one and started removing all the parts to get to it and replace it! Now this is where my problems start how do you remove the last bolt on the manifold in the back by the firewall the inside one I can feel it and somewhat see it but cant get the tork to stay on it and don't want to strip it and make my day. Like everything there is an easy way to do it just wondering if anyone knows the secret? My Wife is going nuts with me on using her new car going to work.
That bolt is an absolute ***** to reach, let alone see. I ended up doing it completely by feel by using just the torx bit. Once I had the bit engaged in the bolt, I (again by feel) managed to get a wobbler and then an extension into it. When putting it back together, I assembled it with the torx bit sitting in the bolt so I could do the same thing. I probably spent an hour just messing with that stupid bolt.
 






Hello Everyone,
I own a 2004 Ford Explorer with a 4.0 6 cyl. last month I got a check eng light and came up as 193 a fuel pressure sensor needed to be replaced. The fun part was trying to find the part other than the Ford Dealership I found one and started removing all the parts to get to it and replace it! Now this is where my problems start how do you remove the last bolt on the manifold in the back by the firewall the inside one I can feel it and somewhat see it but cant get the tork to stay on it and don't want to strip it and make my day. Like everything there is an easy way to do it just wondering if anyone knows the secret? My Wife is going nuts with me on using her new car going to work.
@William Morgan
Having needed to replace my '04 4.0 Fuel Pressure and Temperature Sensor twice in one year, the second time on that back bolt got easier. I used 1/4" square drive extensions which together got me just up under the problem: the protruding metal lip coming off the firewall. Think I had the universal joint drive at the bottom. Putting the bolt back in is easiest if a dab of 3-M Trim Cement is used to glue the bolt to the Torx bit. Put the stuff on both bit and in Torx socket, go have coffee, never put parts back together until that stuff is good & dry! Push the bolt tightly onto the bit, it'll hold just fine until you get it tightened. (Maybe leave the bit in the bolt for next time!) imp
 






That bolt is an absolute ***** to reach, let alone see. I ended up doing it completely by feel by using just the torx bit. Once I had the bit engaged in the bolt, I (again by feel) managed to get a wobbler and then an extension into it. When putting it back together, I assembled it with the torx bit sitting in the bolt so I could do the same thing. I probably spent an hour just messing with that stupid bolt.
Thank you very much for the info I'll try again today in removing that *#*# bolt !! going to try something too going to use my sport cam and my IPad so to try to see what I'm doing lol
 






That bolt is an absolute ***** to reach, let alone see. I ended up doing it completely by feel by using just the torx bit. Once I had the bit engaged in the bolt, I (again by feel) managed to get a wobbler and then an extension into it. When putting it back together, I assembled it with the torx bit sitting in the bolt so I could do the same thing. I probably spent an hour just messing with that stupid bolt.
Thank you very much for the info I'll try again today in removing that *#*# bolt !! going to try something too going to use my sport cam and my IPad so to try to see what I'm doing lol
 






Thank you very much for the info I'll try again today in removing that *#*# bolt !! going to try something too going to use my sport cam and my IPad so to try to see what I'm doing lol
Hardest part, for me, was lying on my belly on top of all that underhood mess to reach back there! I use a U-Haul felt moving blanket to ease the pain. imp
 






You probably already know this, but if you unhook both pressurized lift rods, you can pull the hood back to 90+ degrees and use a hooked stretchy strap to tie it back to the roof rack. No good way to do this job w/o getting that hood all the way back.

I've found that visualizing the spacing and alignment of the two rows of plenum bolts helps me locate that backmost bolt on the driver side (and passenger side) easier.

+1 on using a small 1/4" drive (rather than a 3/8). +1 on using a small wobble extension to get you just under the cowl. A wobble gives you a good angle w/o too much floppiness.

Having done this multiple times on multiple 4.0 SOHC's, it does get easier. I'd recommend a pick to dig out any crud in the top of the torx recess on the bolt first time around. If you get the torx bit in there good, you'll be surprised how much torque it will take w/o stripping. Of course, douse it w/PB Blaster, etc., before having a go. That said, I did strip one once (careless)--thank god a front one on plenum I was not going to re-use. It would have been a nightmare trying to drill off that bolt head on the back bolt!

I like Imp's idea re: the adhesive. Another trick I've seen used is to put a dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of the torx bit. The fine grittiness helps keep the bit from slipping for phillips, hex, torx.

Not a bad idea to slap some anti-seize on those back few intake manifold bolts before reassembly.
 






You probably already know this, but if you unhook both pressurized lift rods, you can pull the hood back to 90+ degrees and use a hooked stretchy strap to tie it back to the roof rack. No good way to do this job w/o getting that hood all the way back.
I didn't find the need to do that. Edit: I had the hood all the way off, ignore me.
+1 on using a small 1/4" drive (rather than a 3/8). +1 on using a small wobble extension to get you just under the cowl. A wobble gives you a good angle w/o too much floppiness.
DEFINITELY use the 1/4" drive. I wasn't able to get the 3/8" down into the little area. 6" x 1/4" drive extension worked perfectly.
 






I did this on my 04 this past February and I live in MN. so it was a little cool in the garage. Before I attempted it I watch several you tube videos which helped a lot since I'm not a mechanic. I ended up lying on top of the engine to reach that bolt. Took about 2 1/2 hrs. for me to complete it taking my time. I got the Ford part off of amazon and along with the manifold gasket set and throttle body mounting gasket. Total cost under $100.
 






I did this on my 04 this past February and I live in MN. so it was a little cool in the garage. Before I attempted it I watch several you tube videos which helped a lot since I'm not a mechanic. I ended up lying on top of the engine to reach that bolt. Took about 2 1/2 hrs. for me to complete it taking my time. I got the Ford part off of amazon and along with the manifold gasket set and throttle body mounting gasket. Total cost under $100.
@faberj
Just wondering what the reason was for removing the manifold? Access to the Fuel Pressure and Temperature Sensor, as I had to? imp
 






Just like you it was the fuel rail pressure sensor. Why Ford put it there I have no idea because from what I saw on another you tube video for a ford escape it was right in the open.
 






I had to remove my intake to do the valve cover gaskets. If you need to pull it for some other reason, you really should do the valve covers while you've got it apart to save you the same headache in the future.
 






I had to remove my intake to do the valve cover gaskets. If you need to pull it for some other reason, you really should do the valve covers while you've got it apart to save you the same headache in the future.
@bgsc74
Hard to explain why valve cover gaskets last or fail so unpredictably. 160K, no leaks anywhere on the vehicle, of oil, that is. Did you have higher miles than that? imp
 






I had to remove my intake to do the valve cover gaskets. If you need to pull it for some other reason, you really should do the valve covers while you've got it apart to save you the same headache in the future.
@bgsc74
Hard to explain why valve cover gaskets last or fail so unpredictably. 160K, no leaks anywhere on the vehicle, of oil, that is. Did you have higher miles than that? imp
 






@bgsc74
Hard to explain why valve cover gaskets last or fail so unpredictably. 160K, no leaks anywhere on the vehicle, of oil, that is. Did you have higher miles than that? imp
145,000 miles on my previous 2002 4.0 and the driver's side was leaking badly, and directly on the exhaust manifold
 






When I removed my intake, I remember having to kneel on the front part of the engine, crouch down, and remove the back few bolts completely by feel, I couldn't see them at all without a mirror. I remember having to use the torx driver, an adapter, and a wobble extension in just the right orientation to get it. It was a real pain, just keep at it, you'll get there!
 






Back
Top