But didnt we verify power at the OBD2 port? I'll relook at it, but I know we verified something or other... continuity or voltage or both. And the fact that it went ahead and did the test other codes came up so makes me think that the obd2 is working at least some part of it.
This is sounding nicer.... so new ignition comes with keys I assume, or can you have current key programmed to new ignition? I'm on the way to Oreillys to pick one up and try it. Hopefully dont have to have a locksmith to get it going...B1352 is key in code… issue with the key in chime wire which you said is disconnected… no big deal
Ok, I will resort to begging...
...if I have to. Can anyone help try to point me in the right direction with my issue? 98 EX 4WD High and 4WD Low dash lights blinking simutaneousley. My Brother-in-law came up with fault code "B1359" Alldata says "Ignition run/accessory circuit fault" A little too generic for him to look...www.explorerforum.com
B1359 is ignition switch / run circuit fault
There Maybe issue with ignition switch or wiring to and from.. which may help explain your radio power issue
The odd thing is this code comes from the pcm so it does appear that the pcm talking to the scanner
Ignition switch is not expensive and is pretty simple to replace really
Ok, calling things by the correct term may be amiss, agreed. I have a no crank issue. Yesterday, the first time in 100 tries, it for some reason or other cranked. AND started. while it was running I metered the battery, it was 14. something or other. So it isn't the alternator. New battery, AGM from Bass Pro Shops, it aint that. New terminals. None of these explain anything about my issues. I have a no crank issue. Is the blue contact in the picture I sent that connects to the key and tumbler when actuated something that needs to be addressed? It is loose and basically falls out of its detent. I can hold it in, but seems to have no effect either way. What is it? I can think of no way imaginable that a battery can go from 12.1 to 7.4 in 60 seconds. When before the vehicle died, it was charging at 14.1? Could these issues be coming from the plugs behind the multi position switch? When the tilt is used, the wires almost pull out, and some of the wires were loose (out) of the harness I pushed them back in, but could they not be part of the problem?
good to know about the blue thing.
I went and bought a new ignition. It has to be installed with a obd2 device. Locksmith came out and couldn't do it because he couldn't connect the pcm. I would gladly replace the pcm in lieu of pulling my hair out daily with this thing. So regardless of what the issue is, is there some specific way to replace the pcm? I mean the obd2 port has voltage and continuity so doesnt it make sense to just replace the damn thing?
In the ignition I bought it said you had to have it installed with a computer thingy so that the keys that came with it would work. I dont need a locksmith to replace the switch, but a locksmith can add the keys to the vehicle right? I'm just saying because I had one come out and he couldn't add the keys because he couldn't access the PCM either. Just makes me think its the pcm.
I guess it takes a bit for it to sink in.... ok so I have all that straight now, for some reason, I think of a key and tumbler as an ignition switch. Thats funny, and you have said it a few times, even a pic of it, Sorry man
Well, I switch the ignition out.... no change. Accidentally left the key in on position overnight, so when a friend of mine came by to take a look at it, battery was a brick. I had a charged marine battery out back, so switched it out... as he is hooking up his OBDII thingie and looking at it, he just randomly tries to start it, and it starts. And has every time since that moment. I am like WTH? Anyway, yesterday I take it to my uncles cabin, and on the way back, I see smoke coming from the truck... I'm like what now? No gauges show issues, I so continue home... as I'm getting off the freeway, I hit the brakes and dont really have any, I'm like uh oh, get stopped, get home and put a laser thermometer on the hub (which is smoking) and its 500 degrees. Hose it down, remove the wheel, and drum and there is play in and out about 1/4" as well as able to rotate it a little both directions, this is passenger side. Remove driver side and no play either direction. Thoughts on THIS one?
