Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip

any idea if the alt is overheating? i will guess that is also one problem i have because the heat under the hood is nuts. the wire shielding on the connector going from the alt to the battery on mine actually turned black.
 



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any idea if the alt is overheating? i will guess that is also one problem i have because the heat under the hood is nuts. the wire shielding on the connector going from the alt to the battery on mine actually turned black.

I added ventilation but am going to add two more exhaust vents on the hood. I don't think it is overheating stuff as I was working on it early in the day and it was cool out.....short test drive and then I came back and opened the hood.
 






I am getting back to it after a wrecking yard run early.

I got lucky and pulled a computer and GEM from a 2000 5.0 AD just as I have! The EEC catchcode/ strategy matches what I have. The GEM is a YL2T - 14B205-BB sport utility 4X2 I had to double check to see it had front axles after seeing the 4X2 but it makes sense as the AWD doesn't need T-case control or monitoring. I will make sure when I pull mine. I want to slap the GEM in but will take the time to check everything I can under the dash. I am going to start first at the power distribution box and EECV bulkhead connection and check voltages.
 






5.0 sploders have no idea if they are rwd or awd when they leave the factory, thanks goodness! No control trac, no nada....but the lights are in the dash if one wanted to hook them up :)
when Ford shoe horned the gt40 into the Gen II they did us many favors
 






I got a little better voltage with installation of the GEM. Still down as low as 11.5 It did stop throwing GEM codes!!~!!

I added another chassis ground from the battery and swapped-out the Diode in the distribution box under the hood. I now have 13.8 volts and it is very steady, no more voltage swings.

Awesome, now it is back to tuning and getting AC working!!!!!!!
 






Excellent, every improvement helps a lot. Now you can get back to having fun with it.
 






Diode in the distribution box? where is that and what does it look like? im dumb when it comes to electrical
 






I don't think the diode made the difference. I checked the ground to chassis at the battery and found much resistance in the cable. I added the yellow wire for ground. I can attach it and I get good voltage inside and disconnect it and it drops again. Pics below of new yellow ground, underhood power box, and diode.

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AC now, it's quick cycling and I am betting the orifice has melted since it is so close to the header. Everything is new and I verified charge this morning at a shop.

It cycles quick, builds pressure fast on the high side, and shut's off.
 






It took me an hour to trying to get the orifice tube out. I got half of it and had to heat the tube with a torch to get the remaining piece. It took a stiff wire with a small hook/catch on it. I blew out the remaining stuff, slapped a new orifice tube in, insulated, charged it and walla, cold air! Well, three hours later................................................

Somebich broke trying to get it out and bet the little valve was stuck:
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Heat barrier:
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I am fine tuning with AC to keep me cool!!!!! The fuel mixture is getting up to 12:1 fuel above 4000rpm. It likely needs more volume. I need to drop the tank and install the higher volume pump. It's been OK at 4 to 4.5 lbs of boost but I will get more boost, not so much I blow-up the running gear, but more.

Thanks,
Chris
 






My mistake in chasing down the voltage issue was assuming a brand new main ground to the engine would work for the body.

I got it through break-in without blowing it up!

My lady and I ran up to a camp site we like at 10,500'. It pulled up the mountains great though got a bit warm at the top of the pass. It was mid afternoon, 80's with AC on and in boost all the way up. I shut down the AC toward the top and it made the difference. It got to 210 degrees and it belched some coolant into the overflow. Had I rolled down the other side of the pass it would have cooled quickly but it did not as we got off on a slow rolling dirt road............................................

I relocated the license plate as I had it in front of the lower inlet. I am going to add a couple of pusher fans and two additional hood vents.

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I was able to place two 12" pusher fans in front top of the radiator. I won't need them but for hot, hot days - sitting in traffic, climbing or on a slow road/trail.
Grill:
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Shot through grill:
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I added two louvered vents.
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Like the hood
Love you America
 






I did some clean-up and painting under the hood. I put bed liner on the aluminum plate I used over the radiator/grill and am headed to the hardware store to get additional weather tape to seal between the hood and the aluminum plate. I really do not want hot air pulled out of the engine compartment and back through the radiator or air intake.

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Does anyone have a 2000 5.0 engine wiring harness diagram and pin-out?

The coolant gauge is not working. I get temp reading with my tuner and can datalog temp. I am trying to see why there are two coolant sensors. I have the one hooked-up at the heater lines and the one at cylinder 5 only has a single wire to it when I got a dual lead sensor there?????? I can't find the second sensor on a 96-99 wiring diagram, don't know it's the correct sensor or if I can wire it in to the other one?????
 






Happy New Year!

I finally got around to fabbing a bypass for this old Kenne Bell. I ordered some bent 1 5/8" tubing to fab headers from and had at it. I am going to drill the manifold and intake pipe this weekend and install the bypass. I'll get a few pics and post again.

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This build is minty
 






4X2 hours (with my son) to complete the bypass:

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I thought I would share Speedway Motors for great pricing exhaust stuff. I ordered this tubing from them for the supercharger bypass valve and wish I had thought of them for the tail pipe. Combo Exhaust Pipe Mandrel Bend/Header Tubing, Mild Steel, 1-5/8"

Back in September I put on a cheap 2.5" dual to 3" turbo muffler and 3 tail pipe:

 



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That's a good source. I remember having their parts catalogs back in 1979 when I built my first engine. Back then the several parts sources you had to find in car magazines, and call or get the catalog to work with. Speedway is one of the few which has survived.
 






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