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Never Done, Build Thread for Kenne Bell Supercharged 5.0 Explorer with Ranger Edge Front Clip

I have to say I think you guys respect my opinion I don't like where that nozzle is It really needs to be on the back of the intake elbow directly behind the blower inlet
I had to move mine
I hope this location is good but I doubt it
The difference in performance is very noticeable

OK, I got ya, no disrespect and I took the easy route. I find myself more than a little bit burnt-out on projects right now.

It is about as close to the blower intake as you can get without spraying directly in. If I am not happy with it there, it can be moved. I am sure some cooling will go to the elbow, I'll soon see if too much is lost there and if I want/need to move it based upon what I get when data logging IAT's.

I'll share results. I also heard you on duel staged nozzles, but I am going to start with a single number 6 injector. I think it will be enough at the 6-6.5lbs I will be running. It may be too much based on what I have read. They included a number 4 and 6, so I probably need the 5!

I read of an increase in boost with the denser air charge. I'll soon see if it produces a bit more boost. Did you see an increase?
 



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I'm running a dual nozzle injection at the inlet on another engine using a Kenne Bell, but honestly I've not been able to measure a noticeable reduction in air charge temperature - I'm using H2O, though... not meth. I simply tuned for ACT based ignition timing reduction to keep things safe and it's been working fine even in 100 degree ambients or higher. If I was going to put my money on improving the air charge cooling I would go drastic and integrate a liquid-air intercooler. Regardless, I'm sure you'll get that engine running well enough - you'll only need 1-2 psi of boost while climbing mountain grades at a cruise, hopefully.

The 4R should be able to handle the duties, but improved frictions are available if you wanted to rebuild. If you're planning to keep the stock unit in place for a while, I would definitely upgrade to something like a TCI deep pan, install a shift kit and add some EPC pressure where it counts. The stock converter's clutch is probably not up to the task of holding that much torque for long either, so maybe just ensure it's disengaged in high load (boost) situations.
 






The IAT sensor is on the number 5 cylinder intake runner as I am using an F150/Bronco lower. It heat soaks and usually reads close to the ECT. I do see it climb rapidly with boost so it will indicate cooling when it works. I hope I see some good results. I am taken back that you didn't get results cause you know your stuff well. The Meth helps considerably with cooling and octane but water only was used in WWII aircraft to pump-out much more power.

BMW is getting 50 more horses out of water injection on a boosted production inline 6. They have two tunes and it will automatically switch to a safe tune if the water runs out. I can switch tunes with my Tweecer and probably should put a buzzer along with the warning light if the tank runs low. I will also carry a couple extra gallons in jugs safely.
I have mounted the tank in the back. Therefore, I am going to try a 60/40 mix. It's a safety issue as anything above 40% Meth is flammable. I guess it is safer running 50/50 than pure Meth but it is flammable.

I hope I get more power, but also want it running safer/cooler. I did a bit more research on the Spray. I found more that said if you are already pretty well maxed-out, on the edge of timing and fuel, you will get decent results. My tune is and it is set-up to pull timing at high IAT's. Most are increasing power with the spray by adding timing and pulling fuel to get more power. Silly me, I may change my mind and tune a bit deeper once it is set-up and working reliably. Silly as I got to see it and feel it though it is working great for many.

The Tranny, I tuned it to shift a bit later and backed-off that with the stock cam. I had it hitting 2nd hard at 45MPH. It was a bit faster but also pushing it out to the max for what is my daily driver. I have increased line pressures for quicker firmer shifts. I suppose I could drop it and put a better TC in it. This tranny is supposed to be rebuilt with the latest mods, but I doubt frictions and TC where improved.
 






We played around with the mix for a while 50/50 works best for me

No need for a buzzer the light don't just come on it will Flickr first as the float bobs up and down

If you start spraying at low boost 2 psi for me
The blower don't have a chance to heat up
I'm able to get 120 f intake temps this way
 






We played around with the mix for a while 50/50 works best for me

No need for a buzzer the light don't just come on it will Flickr first as the float bobs up and down

If you start spraying at low boost 2 psi for me
The blower don't have a chance to heat up
I'm able to get 120 f intake temps this way

Cool, but thinking of wiring-in a fire alarm to keep from blowing up the engine!

Blown is as Blown do!

A flicker would work if I place the LED where I can't miss it, cause the boost gauge/controller with low level indicator goes down in the center consul and I don't watch it much when done with tuning.

It has warmed enough to get out and work on it some.
 






I read a bit more and learned about the Flash Point of Methanol/H2O. That is the lowest temperature at which vapors above the mix ignite in air when exposed to flame. Imagine that, the first You-Tube source was not taking into account temperature. I found a chart and at about 86 degrees a 40/60 mix Meth/H2O will flash/ignite. It appears that windshield washing fluid, rated down to -20 is a 23/77 mix and would flash around 100 degrees. A 50/50 mix flashes, goes to the air and can be ignited at 77 degrees and you got to mix all the way down below 8% Meth to eliminate flashing.

I see that there are degrees of safety based upon the mix and temperature.

This here install must have no leaks. I am going to keep it ventilated, but put a panel over the side of the tank to protect it from damage.
 






Where did March go? Spring Sprung and I see warmer temps coming to get some projects done. Ski areas are closing, it's muddy out there and I put my lady on a plain tomorrow to go see her folks for a week and a half!

At this point, I am not able to write a second tune to the TwEECer. I updated Tweecer software last night and will try again today. I will double check my procedures and then get help if needed. I want a more aggressive spray tune and need to have the current no spray tune to be able to safely switch back too.

I want the Meth/H2O tank, pump all together under the hood for convenience and safety. I am going to look at some cable to run the battery to the back.
 






Update or lack thereof...............I have made no progress on the Spray install. I got busy with landscaping and fixing-up our new to us Teardrop Camper. I did a 2" lift on the camper with 2" block and added 1-1/2" taller wheels and tires. I welded-up some feet for the jacks and cut-in a couple more windows. I did complete a project on the rig. We had been sleeping in the back while camping with this setup:
bed.jpg


Since we got the camper, I added a top over the rear slide-out tailgate and carpeted it. It now slides-out easily with cargo on top:
Bed 1.jpg



Bed 2.jpg


Camper before:
Camper before.jpg


Lifted with old School Explorer 15" rims:
Camper after.jpg




I'll be more motivated to add the Snow kit as it warms in the next few weeks.
 






Just letting you know that I gave up on the Tweecer for EEC-V. There is something missing in the patch code that makes the engine shut off periodically. I moved over to the Quarterhorse using CoreTuning’s REAC4 definition and Binary Editor. All good on the western front now.
 






Just letting you know that I gave up on the Tweecer for EEC-V. There is something missing in the patch code that makes the engine shut off periodically. I moved over to the Quarterhorse using CoreTuning’s REAC4 definition and Binary Editor. All good on the western front now.
Yup, I had a similar issue with my old Tweecer RT unit. I bought a new unit and lost that problem. The new unit has been running it great!

It's good that CoreTuning broke more of the strategy out and that you got it working, Cool!
 






That teardrop is awesome and the slide out looks clean. Love it.
 






Got some work done on the rig. I chased a charging problem down and got around to a braking upgrade.

First I installed a new master cylinder and used it to bleed-out all the old fluid. I used a simple master bleed kit. I did pour a bit of fluid into the sensor port first, then you have to install the sensor and do so while holding the master piston all the way in. I used Prestone synthetic DOT 3.
Master.jpg


I purchased a Power Stop Z36 Truck and Tow Kit with calipers, pads, and drilled/slotted rotors. I also installed new, longer, braided steel front hoses from Dearborn.

Front1.jpg


front3.jpg

The thing that was new to me was a required, specific, break-in/burn-in to prevent chudder. Yah, CHUDDER, that is when you imprint/smoke/burn-mark the rotor with the new pads. If you heat them up when new and then stop this can happen. That imprint would hit on each rotation and "chudder". Nobody wants to be F-in" chuddering down the road! (I am doing the LCA's next to hopefully stop a 64mph shimmy, can you imagine a chudder with a shimmy!)
front5.jpg


What's stupid new to me are the overpriced, powder coated, race-red, calipers! Got to brake better with race red!
rear.jpg


The brakes feel better, but I have yet to drive it enough. I have not hit them hard since break-in. They should keep a bit cooler when I need them down these mountain grades and to slow the, one day, 500hp beast.

The rear flex lines to the calipers seemed to be in decent shape. I wonder about replacing them too as old as they are??? Does that seem like a good idea?

 






I have swapped supercharger pulleys down to 6lbs for the summer heat.

I've spent more time running numbers than getting anything done on my engine..............I have done several comparisons in Desktop Dyno. It is very tempting to go after all that upper end power with the relatively mild Comp XE258. However, that would take some head work and bigger exhaust. I'll keep the stock cam for the low end grunt. There is up to 40ftlbs over the Comp cam in the cruising rpm range with boost. That is where it does most of it's work and gets the best mileage whether cruising or crawling.

This is what I came-up with for my engine. This is at 8lbs of boost with meth/H2O cooling and the stock GT40 Explorer Cam vs Comps XE258 (35-512-8). The upper lines for TQ and HP, from roughly 1,000 to 3,000rpm is the GT40 cam lines and you can see after 3,500rpm, where lines cross, the Comp cam outpaces the GT40 cam (for those who have color problems as I do).

GT40 vs Comp XE258.jpg


I want to get the spray working and need to do so before I can run 8lbs in the summer heat.
 






The rear flex lines to the calipers seemed to be in decent shape. I wonder about replacing them too as old as they are??? Does that seem like a good idea?


Couldn't hurt. Rubber brake lines can go bad internally.
 






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