new cam with litfers/pushrods?

[cerberusaardvark]

im parting up for a mild rebuild of my engine. ive got clearwater heads all dressed up with valves/ valve train, new gasket set, new radiator, water pump, fan clutch and other assorted parts.

ive heard that if you want to install new lifters and pushrods you need to install a new cam as well.

my constraint is that the block need to stay in the truck, as i dont have a stand or crane. that means no cam, no pistons, no piston rings, no bearings, as much as i would like to do them.

im not looking for any modding, just making it a reliable stock motor for another few years.

 

[Benjam]

As long as your cam isn't excessively worn, you can put new lifters and push rods in on top of it. This is because we have hydraulic roller lifters in the 4.0 ohv engine.

The old style, flat tappet lifters have to mesh with a cam and once they are worn together, they must stay in that same position. Mixing flat tappet lifters will cause a cam to be eaten up in minutes.

So in reality, you would be okay to use new lifters on your current cam. However, you can pull the cam out of the block with it still in the truck. I personally haven't done it, but I know it's possible.

See this link for cam removal while the block is still in the truck. Keep in mind you have heads off already, so it wont be necessary to wire up lifters as this person did.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=278323

Benjam

 

[Anime]

You can mix and match new/old parts that aren't excessively worn, but in general, if you're replacing lifters ($$$) and pushrods, it's usually because you're swapping out the cam as well.

It's not required that you put in new cam, it's just that when people do lifters and pushrods, it's because they are putting in a performance cam and replacing worn or busted parts along the way. Plenty of people have taken apart the motor and found collapse lifters or wear on the pushrods from running so long with worn rocker arms.

However, if you did need to change out the camshaft, as shown above, you can do it with the engine in the truck.

You are usually better off rebuilding the stock lifters rather than just buying new aftermarket ones, especially for the price.

If you're getting new heads, pushrods, etc. you should also be getting new rocker arms, or entire new rocker arm assemblies. The rocker arm assemblies are available from our forum vendors that are Ford dealers for a good price (you get the rocker arms, shafts, mounts, everything, complete and ready to mount for less than it costs to buy 12 rocker arms) and fix the issues with the stock rocker arms being made of soft metal and having indentations.

 

[cerberusaardvark]

i suppose theres no way to tell if the cam is too worn without actually removing it and inspecting it close up.

i like the idea of those rocker assemblies though. i couldnt find a listing in the vending forums though.

 

[Anime]

It's unlikely the cam is worn, but if you're going to be replacing a lot of things, you might consider replacing the timing chain/gears/tensioner/guide, depending on mileage, and it's not much to pull the cam for inspection after that.

Things don't usually wear unless the rockers have gotten so bad that they've caused lifter damage, which in turn causes pushrod damage and cam damage. Usually minor but still something that would be replaced in the course of a rebuild if worn or damaged. If you start replacing stuff prior to the rockers getting that bad, you save yourself the hassle of replacing everything else and can usually just clean and re-use the parts.

Just contact one or all of the forum vendors who are Ford dealers, either through PM or give 'em a call. They will give you pricing and can use the VIN to be sure you're getting the right replacement parts.

I would say get the pushrods from Ford too if you're keeping the stock cam.

Even with the block in the truck, you'll have good access with the heads off and exhaust manifolds out of the way, so you also might consider replacing the block expansion/freeze plugs with brass versions. The stock plugs can sometimes rust and/or leak, and it's tough to replace these with an assembled engine in the vehicle.