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new dd, f350




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oil change and upgraded filter. 10qts + 1 extra quart for the different filter
IMG_20111003_185830.jpg

IMG_20111003_185913.jpg


the filter is for a newer powerstroke 7.3. its about 3" taller and holds 1qt extra, filters up to 2microns.
you can see the size differnece next to a POS fram. im glad that fram is gone also
IMG_20111003_190005.jpg
 






Ok so I need to lower it 3". The rear has a weird block, I'm guessing to hit the bumpstops. And a small block under it. Taking those out should fix the rear.

But what about the front? Take out a leaf from the packs?

This is DD, beach, maybe in future tow the exploder duties. No sway bars(I want some).


So any help? I can take pics of anything requsted to help figure this out
 












Very sharp truck indeed!

I approve of the new exhaust and agree with the turbo suggestion. That would rock.
 






still no progress. this morning i looked at my steering for some reason, and it looked like my trac bar wasnts lined up right with the drag link. so tonight i looked from behind and its not as bad as i thought. but i took pics anyway. what you think?
132_2804.jpg

132_2805.jpg





i did get my exhaust coupler, so ill be doing that soon. and ive been debating the new tires, but i think im just gonna put em on. ill prob have to take out the lift springs for stockers and keep the reverse shackle kit in the front and add blocks for the rear. to make a 3" lift id say

oh yea, its gonna need brake pads too.
 






Nice truck!

I like the older body style like that better than the new.

Why are you trying to lower just the back?
 






Trac bar - isnt that just going to cause binding against the leaf springs as the leaf springs move in a vertical, linear path where as the trac bar moves in an arc?
 






Nice truck!

I like the older body style like that better than the new.

Why are you trying to lower just the back?
thanks. front and back. the back is easy, the front is the problem.

Trac bar - isnt that just going to cause binding against the leaf springs as the leaf springs move in a vertical, linear path where as the trac bar moves in an arc?
can you explain with pictures possibly?
and it comes stock with a trac bar and leafs... im not sure what angle its at when its stock, but it has one anyway.





in other news i forgot to post. right now the truck is dead. drivers rotor is destroyed. inner pad was down to NOTHING. so bad the retaining clip decided to bounce and gouge the inside of my wheel, looks like the grooves on the rotor.
parts list: rotors, pads, u-joints at knuckles, balljoints and tierods. $450
and im gonna try and get those 37s mounted on my current wheels this weekend. buy new wheels at tax time
 
























Yeah that's what that is...... The problem is those tires you got were stacked for awhile and they don't want to flex. You will have to keep them off the rim and stretch them. Cut 2 14" pieces of 2x4s and wedge them between the bead on each side and let them sit for a day or 2. Then try again.
 






Trac bar - isnt that just going to cause binding against the leaf springs as the leaf springs move in a vertical, linear path where as the trac bar moves in an arc?

The trac bar is needed with that tank as it would wonder on ya side to side with the frontend. The trac works great with that setup to stabilize and not allow for the side to side sway.
 






The trac bar is needed with that tank as it would wonder on ya side to side with the frontend. The trac works great with that setup to stabilize and not allow for the side to side sway.
But doesnt the trac bar's motion (being an arc) force the vehicle to move side-to-side as the suspension droops away and compresses (like running over a dip in the road)?

panhard_displacement.jpg
 






It may move slightly to one side or the other depending on the degree of movement up or down. But overall, it has no ill effect but that of control from leaf spring sway. You will be suprised on how much sway side to side and the feel of being unstable these rigs feel without one. The leaf bushing and leaf bind can make one feel unstable even straight down the road driving.

A example of that is similiar to driving in high wind and how your vehicle wants to move to either side the wind is blowing. That is how these or any big rig feels. And it magnifies as the hieght is increased significally with a hugh lift.

As long as the trac bar is in line with the steering arm, you are grand, but if the degree of the trac bar is more than the steering arm, you will experience binding, and axle drag or pull.
 






my trac bar is pretty parallel with the draglink from the pitman. at first i thought it wasnt, but it is.
i do have horrible problems steering tho. sometimes driving straight ill be turning to the left about 50*, hit a bump or switch lanes(sometimes) and ill be turning right about the same angle to go straight. and sometimes straight is straight lol

ive already checked the steering shaft couplers. one bolt i couldnt get to, but the other one is tight.
all i can think of is bad ball joints?
im just gonna do all 4 joints, u-joints and 2 tie rods anyway. while i have the rotors off



and can someone school me on part names; bar that goes from knuckle to knuckle and bar that goes from pitman to knuckle/bar described(<-- my setup)
 






and can someone school me on part names; bar that goes from knuckle to knuckle and bar that goes from pitman to knuckle/bar described(<-- my setup)

tie rod goes from tie rod end to tie rod end, or knuckle to knuckle, and the steering arm is what connects your pitman arm to the tie rod, or drag link. Depends on what side of the country you are on some call it one thing and some call it a do hickey or whatcha ma call it, LOL.

Also, the steering issues you are experiencing may well come from the bald tires you have up front too. No road grip and bald tires can give you the wondering to one side to the other. And also the steering arm may need a little adjusting and could be too tight which could cause your steering wonder. I will not mention the other reasons as you just stated you are replacing parts now. And not to mention running those 12" rims and they are probably at a 3.0 to 3.5 BS is alot of load on your wheel bearings and such.

I personally would run the trac bar from D/S frame rail to top of P/S axle next to the leaf spring bracket or simialiar. A longer trac bar is more forgiving and flexing than that of a short modified to work like that one on there with the hugh drop down bracket running off the cross member as you have. But that is just me.

Always been a fan of the crew cab or 4dr model 3/4 or 1tons.

Very nice rig you have there. The only drawback to the 91 thru 96 models was the door panels. When they are shot, they are so hard to find good replacements since they are not made any longer. I have done the pre 92 door swap to overcome it a few times, and I like the pre 92 door panels better anyway.
 



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thanks. thats what confused me, didnt know it was just called 'the tie rod' lol.
yea im hoping i dont have to replace the bearings too. ive already got enough.
i had someone tell me the bald tires only affect braking due to no grip, ill wonder/slide.

im not sure what i want to do for tires/wheels anymore. $452 for 15.6x8.25, $900 for twf double beadlock h1s 16.5x8.25. or just get damn 37x12.5r20s and 20x9s or 38/39/40 lol

its a dd 95% of the year. 5% beach, aired down. even with 8.25 wide wheels, im not sure the tires would keep the bead at 20psi. ive been told 16.5 is a PITA for beads



and on top of the suspension parts i need 8 glowplugs and a controller
 






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