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New drive shafts

Querys

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 22, 2018
Messages
177
Reaction score
14
Location
Germany
City, State
Cologne
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013, Explorer Limited
Hello members,

I have to replace the front drive shafts on my 2013 Ford Explorer Limited 4WD 3.5 TiVCT with Class 3 towing.

Rockauto lists Motorcraft TX845 (right) and TX846 (left) as suitable parts for my car.
Alternative part numbers are
TX845 = #FB5Z3B436C, TX776 (right)
TX846 = #FB5Z3B437A, TX777 (left)

FB5Z3B436C

I made quick cross check with parts.ford.com with my VIN. For the left side it is okay, but the right side deliveres "This part does not match your vehicle".
Unfortunately parts.ford.com does not show any right drive shaft with 4WD and towing.

Furthermore I did a check at an online parts catalogue and it shows the part number BB5Z-3B436-M, which does not exist on parts.ford.com and furthermore, according to the parts catalogue it says "RH, Multiple Replacement Required Due To Bearing Orientation Being Opposite Of The Original"

Anyone an idea what I have to order or to do?
 



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attached a picture.
I assume I need the screws/bolts HS1, HS2, HM1, HN2 and the bracket 3k305 to assemble the new TX845 drive shaft.

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Wow, the axle & intermediate shaft are one assembly. On my Acura you could pull the axle from the right side intermediate shaft and leave the shaft in place.

You'll have to refill the PTU after replacement. Why do you need to replace your axles?

Good luck finding the right part. There's always car-part.com if you're OK with used. That's where I got new axles for my TL when the inner joints were shot @ around 230K miles because OEM was crazy expensive and all the aftermarket axles are junk.
 






I live in Germany, and I have to order all parts in US. Due to shipping (150 Dollar for two drive shafts) it doesn't make sense to buy used one (a new one is aroun 100 - 150 Dollar).

Sometimes my whole vehicle is shaking (around 60mph/100kph). When I release the throttle the shaking stops. I assume a dent in the tripod joint. Unfortunately I do not know which side and due to high shipping I will order both sides (but most likely it is the right side).

Thanks for the tip with the PTU fluid! Do you know by chance which fluid is used? ATF?
 












The PTU uses 75-140 gear oil. You'll need to pump it up into the fill hole through a tube.
 






I figured out a solution for Germany
Order List:
drive shaft ---- TX845
bracket --- DB5Z-3K305-B
screw --- M10x45 --- VW Part No --- N 10699901 (VW Parts are easier to get in Germany)
screw --- M10x95 --- VW Part No --- N 90628303

Reuse Stud M8 X 24 + M8 X 14 (are the same like the old ones)
Reuse Nud M8
 






Wow, the axle & intermediate shaft are one assembly. On my Acura you could pull the axle from the right side intermediate shaft and leave the shaft in place.
Unfortunately, this vehicle does not use a halfshaft and a linkshaft. It uses a long stem on the inner joint. They are two different solutions to the same problem of reducing torque steer.
 






Yesterday I got both new drive shafts delivered by Fedex. Unfortunately the central nut is missing.
Today I bought some new hardware for the job next week:
central nut on CV joint --> Ford Fiesta -->2013-2018
ball joint for steering --> Ford Edge -->2015 - today
ball joint on lower control arm --> BMW 7-series F01 (part no 31 10 6 799 668)
 






Oh FYI I believe I was wrong about the gear oil, I mistakenly thought the axle sealed on the PTU, but it actually passes through and seals on the transaxle. So in that case you'd need to drain/refill the tranny or catch the ATF that comes out when you pull the axle and refill with fresh fluid. Assuming I'm right and there isn't some third option I'm not aware of :)
 






hm could be. I guess I need to check for ATF in this case.

--> Yes seems you are right. I ordered an additional can ATF fluid. Maybe I will change the PTU Oil too.
 






I did the exchange today. Quite easy if you use the right tools.
The hardware from other manufactures was similar enough to use it.
The holes in the new bracket for the right cv have another offset, no chance to reuse the old backet with the design changed new cv axle.

Replacement for both sides took about two hours in my driveway.

As SuperGreg said, some ATF will drip out. Furthermore I tried the PTU Oil Change but due to the missing drain plug I only got arount half a pint out of the PTU. But better than nothing. I will drill a hole next time and install a plug.
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