New guy with an Aerostar van. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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New guy with an Aerostar van.

jssears

New Member
Joined
April 22, 2020
Messages
6
Reaction score
2
City, State
Owens Cross Roads, AL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Sport 3.0
Is this THE aerostar site??? I am very happy to find this if this is the THE site. 6 Aerostar owner, just got another 1997, very straight, runs good, 211K 3.0.

Will remove AT and put 5 speed back in like my first one, 1988. Any questions for me - fire away. I'll be asking for help. Have a copy of the the M5R1 "what I know"; excellent document. Jeff
 



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Is this THE aerostar site??? I am very happy to find this if this is the THE site. 6 Aerostar owner, just got another 1997, very straight, runs good, 211K 3.0.

Will remove AT and put 5 speed back in like my first one, 1988. Any questions for me - fire away. I'll be asking for help. Have a copy of the the M5R1 "what I know"; excellent document. Jeff
another one Aerostar - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 






I've swapped a manual transmission in a 4.0L aerostar, headers, 4.10 gears, mustang cobra rear disc brakes. It was a work van and made the day more enjoyable.
 






I've swapped a manual transmission in a 4.0L aerostar, headers, 4.10 gears, mustang cobra rear disc brakes. It was a work van and made the day more enjoyable.
Hey, thank you for your post. I had a 97 Ranger 4.0 and loved it, took it to Germany in the service and autobahn ed the heck out of it, constantly ran it 100-110 for work or travel. Now I have had ZERO stretches with the 4.0, only 119s WB. I have heard all kinds of trauma from extended owners. I would love to drop a 4.0 into mine and have manual....how diff to do?
 






If you drop the engine out the bottom of the van, it takes a few hours to remove. As far as wiring goes, I'm not sure of any differences between the 3.0 and 4.0. The EVTM I have says they are similar. A member here couldn't find a 4.0 ecm for his van so he used a 3.0 ecm and stated the van ran fine. If you use the ranger M5OD the tail shaft is 3 inches shorter. A Lincoln mark 8 shaft will fit if you use 1330 u joints. Top speed for that shaft is 110-120. I've ejected a driveshaft out of my van at that speed, pictures are posted in a thread here.
 












Is this THE aerostar site??? I am very happy to find this if this is the THE site. 6 Aerostar owner, just got another 1997, very straight, runs good, 211K 3.0.

Will remove AT and put 5 speed back in like my first one, 1988. Any questions for me - fire away. I'll be asking for help. Have a copy of the the M5R1 "what I know"; excellent document. Jeff
I'm having trouble with my 4.0 1997 areostar. It started to run rough and stalled about 3 times until the solenoid burned out. Replacing the solenoid got it to start but its not idling. Its sounds like its got fire but dies right after start. Ignition wires and plugs were replaced and I've confirmed the order to be correct. Any idea?
 






Welcome to this forum! Do you see a check engine light? Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition key? Does the fuel pump prime if you turn the engine with a breaker bar or a ratchet with the electrical system on? Did you check the inertia switch to see if it tripped? Are there any stored trouble codes?
 






Welcome to this forum! Do you see a check engine light? Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the ignition key? Does the fuel pump prime if you turn the engine with a breaker bar or a ratchet with the electrical system on? Did you check the inertia switch to see if it tripped? Are there any stored trouble codes?
I'm not sure that the reader for the ecu is working properly. I can't get an ob2 to connect. I'm hoping the ecu is still functioning. I haven't tried the inertia switch. Where is it located?
 












Check fuel pressure too
 






The switch is behind the passenger's side front kick panel. Check the fuses since the scanner wasn't connecting.
Found the inertia switch, wasnt triggered, fuses are good, IAC replaced, no change. I've replaced several vaccum hoses. The charcoal canister was not hooked up at all when I got it. I replaced the hoses and it seemed fine until now. But I'm sure the leaks did damage. Any idea?
 






It's OBD2, I'd get a decent code scanner and look at the data. It takes 3 things for an engine to run, fuel air and spark. If it runs on starting fluid you can rule out 2 of the 3 narrowing down where to focus.
 






It's OBD2, I'd get a decent code scanner and look at the data. It takes 3 things for an engine to run, fuel air and spark. If it runs on starting fluid you can rule out 2 of the 3 narrowing down where to focus.
Did that, fuel pressure is good. Timing is electrically controlled more so than mechanically. I'm thinking electrical since my ecu is not responding to obd2. I've tested the obd2 on other vehicles after the fact as well.
 






Did that, fuel pressure is good. Timing is electrically controlled more so than mechanically. I'm thinking electrical since my ecu is not responding to obd2. I've tested the obd2 on other vehicles after the fact as well.
Most likely, I guess I misunderstood your issue with not connecting to the port. You could try to find a used ecu to swap it out. On my 91 it was above and to the left of the brake pedal under the dash. Not sure on the 97, but mine I needed a 10mm socket to remove the connector in the engine bay 1st then there is a Phillips head screw that holds the ecu tray in place. The part number is next to the bar code on the ecu.
 






I'm having trouble with my 4.0 1997 areostar. It started to run rough and stalled about 3 times until the solenoid burned out. Replacing the solenoid got it to start but its not idling. Its sounds like its got fire but dies right after start. Ignition wires and plugs were replaced and I've confirmed the order to be correct. Any idea?
Unplug the MAF sensor at the air intake duct and see if it runs better. If so clean that MAF sensor. Also, the fuel filter could need replacing, or fuel pump problems. I know you said fuel pressure is good, but engine was not running, demanding flow,right?
 






Unplug the MAF sensor at the air intake duct and see if it runs better. If so clean that MAF sensor. Also, the fuel filter could need replacing, or fuel pump problems. I know you said fuel pressure is good, but engine was not running, demanding flow,right?
Fuel filter has been replaced as well. I've now ordered a new pump so I can better rule out fuel pressure.
 






Fuel filter has been replaced as well. I've now ordered a new pump so I can better rule out fuel pressure.
Make sure you get a quality pump.....Carter or Motorcraft. I never buy cheap at AutoZone or other off brands when replacing fuel pumps.
 









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Have you checked the relays? The contacts wear out over time. You could test the fuel pump with a jumper wire in the relay socket before you replace the pump.
The plastic connection to the pump seemed to have been melted. That connection was getting hot for sure. I've cleaned it up. The connection still seems like it holds current. The actual 4 prongs dont seems damaged just the plastic around them but I dont know why it did that in the fist place. I also found a corroded connection to the left of the air box. I bypassed it to see any change, but nothing.
 






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