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New guy with clunk in driveshaft

motojcf27

New Member
Joined
February 11, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Salt Lake City, UT
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4
Hey guys what up? I got a 02' Ranger xlt 4x4 4.0sohc with minor mods and I'm getting a clunk in the center of the driveline when engaging and disengaging the clutch. Took it to a local ford specialty shop and they said is was more than likely a dry slip yoke. They wanted to charge me close to $200 to remove, clean and regrease it.( Yeah, like that's gonna happen!) Has anyone done this repair to a similar truck? If so, can I get a detailed instruction on how it's done? I've disassembled driveshafts before, but not on a ranger. So any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks:)
 



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I installed James Duff traction bars and that cured the slip bump on mine. Unfortunately, JD has discontinued its line of traction bars but you can get them from other companies like Warrior Products.

I have tried the regrease routine before and found that it was only effective for a few months, at best. If you want to try the procedure, it would be best to get a shop manual for your truck. This is a brief description of what's involved:

Remember that removing the rear driveshaft disables the PARK function on automatics. For safety, always set the P-brake and chock the tires. If raising the truck is necessary, use properly positioned jackstands of adequate capacity to support the truck; never work under a vehicle on a jack.

The driveshaft must be unbolted from the rear differential pinion flange. On a 4WD, it must also be unbolted from the transfer case. On reassembly, the bolts must be torqued properly. The 2002 S/M gives 82~83 lb-ft for the four bolts at each flange. If the bolts are not replaced, their threads must be recoated with threadlocking compound.

Before disassembly, always mark the position of the driveshaft flanges relative to the mating flange at the diff and transfer case. On 4x2's, which don't have a front flange, also mark the position of the driveshaft relative to the tailshaft housing. Reassembly must be done in the same orientation to avoid disturbing the overall balance of the system. Never hammer on a driveshaft or its components. The rear flange fits tightly on a pilot on the pinion flange of the rear diff and can be carefully removed by prying rather than hammering.

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The 4x4 slip yoke is contained in the front of the driveshaft with a boot covering it. After removing the clamps and boot, the slip joint can be regreased and reassembled with a new boot and clamps. The clamps are supposed to be crimped with a special dealer tool. You should use the factory tool or equivalent; if you decide to improvise, the clamps must be tight enough to retain the grease and exclude water and dirt.

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The only lube to use is the Ford PTFE (Teflon) grease sold specifically for this application. For the 4x4's, there is a "kit" which includes a boot, 2 clamps and a single dose of grease. I got these numbers from a post on RPS:

Steel drive shaft - F87Z-4K277-AA
Aluminum driveshaft - 4L5Z-4K277-AA

It would be best to confirm that these are the correct part numbers for your particular application. The dealer can check the Technical Service Bulletins to get the correct parts. There have been many TSBs on this but a recent one is:

04-23-7 NOV 04 Driveline - Thump/Clunk on Acceleration/Braking
 






Thanks Rwenzing... I'll try and give it a shot. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I'm short tempered so... if I hit a road block...it may worth it to pay a shop to do it. Also, I visited a local tranny shop that claimed that I only needed to remove the driveshaft at the transfer case to get the job done.. Does this sound credible?
 






Also, I visited a local tranny shop that claimed that I only needed to remove the driveshaft at the transfer case to get the job done.. Does this sound credible?
Yes and it might be the quickest way for a shop that has a lift. Doing the job on the ground at home, I would opt to remove four more bolts at the diff flange, take the driveshaft out completely and work on it on the bench.
 






If you do this yourself, just remember the driveshaft is balanced, and must go back together the same way it was before. Remove the boot and mark a line going from one half of the shaft to the other. Use this line to re-align the splines when you reinstall.

Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
 






Bolts used to attach driveshaft to rear flange

Are these boltheads a special type, other than regular hex ? Are they metric or english size on a '91 .... I have 4X4, MT, Supercab ... Thanks....
 






The bolts are 12 point 12mm.
 






It is the slip yoke binding. I just repaired mine and bought the special lube kit from Ford which included 2 new crimp rings for the slip yoke boot. I cost about $28.00 from the dealer. It is easy to do and includes instructions. Made my noise go right away who would have thought something so simple could make such a noise.
 






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