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new masster cylinder for uprgraded brakes?

cerberusaardvark

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 7, 2009
Messages
331
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City, State
San Diego
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer xlt
hey guys, just got done with a total brake overhaul on my 94 xlt. i put the 97 ranger dual piston calipers with slotted rotors up front, and swapped in a 98 limited slip rear axle in with discs. i think my old master cylinder is not up to the task of pushing all that fluid around... should i buy the stock m.c. or should i get one from a later model explorer/ ranger? also, if i do that, would i need a new booster as well? trying to get this beast rolling (safely).
 



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You need one from a 95 ex with no proportion valve,no cruise and no abs.stock booster is fine.your stock MC will NOT work with a second gen rearend
 






You need one from a 95 ex with no proportion valve,no cruise and no abs.stock booster is fine.your stock MC will NOT work with a second gen rearend

What would happen if you were to use the stock master cylinder with a 2nd gen rear end?

Autozone has the master cylinder for $35.99 but with a $32 core charge. Rockauto has it for about $25.
 






What would happen if you were to use the stock master cylinder with a 2nd gen rear end?

Autozone has the master cylinder for $35.99 but with a $32 core charge. Rockauto has it for about $25.

The one i posted is the ONLY ONE THAT WORKS.i assume you are asking if you use a stock first gen mc with a sec gen rearend? It wont work,its made for drum brakes,the pressure and the travel is wrong.it wont give enough pressure and it will make your breaks drag.all first gens the abs IS NOT built into the MC nor is the cruise controll.the 95 is the only MC that is setup for disc brakes front and back and has nothing else built into it,thats why its the only one that works 100% right
 












Yes sir;) i bought the reman one after try about 3-4 (1992-1999-1995)different ones then did some research and found out the one that i needed!!:(
 






cool just bought the 95 ex MC no pvalve, cruise control or abs, now going about getting it bled out. the big black clylinder the MC hooks onto.. does that need to come out to bench bleed the MC, together as one unit?
 






cool just bought the 95 ex MC no pvalve, cruise control or abs, now going about getting it bled out. the big black clylinder the MC hooks onto.. does that need to come out to bench bleed the MC, together as one unit?

No thats you booster.make sure to bleed it real good and redo all the tires starting at the back passenger
 






no. just undo the 2 nuts holding the mc on. you should have directions to bench bleed the new mc in the box. then just bolt it on and connect the lines


i have no idea if the bigger ranger brakes will change the brake bias or not. but there will deff be an improvement from using the correct mc for the rear discs.
 






xeek, me neither. but i agree with the braking being beer nonetheless. now bc my xlt has an abs system on it, do i need to be extra careful when doing this? the haynes manual says not to take out, switch or overhaul MCs bc the abs hydraulic system will get air into it. the MC i have is no abs, so will my brakes now be without abs? if so, never really did like that setup anyways.
 






The dual fronts are said to use the same psi and travel as single piston,they just have more even clamping surface.ive read they arent much of an upgrade.if you get the right MC and a second gen rear you will be amazed hom much better your breaks are even with stock front.i say my breaking distance was cut in half!!
 






xeek, me neither. but i agree with the braking being beer nonetheless. now bc my xlt has an abs system on it, do i need to be extra careful when doing this? the haynes manual says not to take out, switch or overhaul MCs bc the abs hydraulic system will get air into it. the MC i have is no abs, so will my brakes now be without abs? if so, never really did like that setup anyways.

No your abs is separate from your MC.yours should be on the fender,ours is under the driver seat/frame.you will still have abs. You need to bleed your whole system!check to see how to bleed your abs,ours we dont do anything special, just start at back pass wheel and go around.
 






When i switched to rear disk I didn't have to do anything to my MC. I didn't even extend the booster rod as some have said to do.
Dramatic difference in stopping distance. Of course, I don't have the dual piston brakes. I've toyed with the idea. Just not sure I need it now after my disk swap.
 






Adjusting the rod is a bandaid way and i willing to bet your rear breaks are not working like they should.for $38 ill do it the right way,breaks are the last thing i want not working!
 






No, they are working perfectly. Thanks though. You are welcome to drive it though.
 






No, they are working perfectly. Thanks though. You are welcome to drive it though.

Then you got very lucky,denying the design of it.mine worked to,just not to a 100%.really,i sure as hell wouldnt let anyone drive my truck,thats my baby!;)
 






Hmm, I just did the 2nd gen 8.8 swap into the 94 as well just a few days ago. I have not changed the MC. Brakes seem to work just fine, but for the little that it costs to swap in a 95 MC, It wont hurt anything to just do it.

I have read the posts about needing a 95 MC, and I have read the posts that you don't need to. But it's not like were taking a loan out to do this. But...we might have to take a loan out to pay for any damages that might happen if it does fail. So to me, this is a simple decision to make. I know what I am doing this weekend. ;)
 






Hmm, I just did the 2nd gen 8.8 swap into the 94 as well just a few days ago. I have not changed the MC. Brakes seem to work just fine, but for the little that it costs to swap in a 95 MC, It wont hurt anything to just do it.

I have read the posts about needing a 95 MC, and I have read the posts that you don't need to. But it's not like were taking a loan out to do this. But...we might have to take a loan out to pay for any damages that might happen if it does fail. So to me, this is a simple decision to make. I know what I am doing this weekend. ;)
Mine didnt feel super bad with stock mc but you could tell something wasnt right,yea for $30ish its worth it and the feel is MUCH better and would imagine the life of them would be better.all i can say they feel better afterwards and havent had any problems or wear/drag issue
 









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hey guys sorry for the long delay. been dealing with the brakes issue for awhile now. i bought the 95 mc with no proportioning valve and no cruise control, but when i got it hooked up and bled out, the pedal had no pressure and would go all the way to the floor. i thought it was bc maybe i didnt bleed the air all the way out, so when i took it for an alignment, i asked the mechanic to bench bleed it and hook it back up. but after he did there was still no pressure and the pedal kept hitting the floor. he keeps trying to tell me i need a different mc from a 99, and wont listen to me when i tell him otherwise. im beginning to wonder if the mc that i bought wasnt what it claimed to be. i took some pics of it though, so take a look for me. if you guys have any suggestions, please share, as i dont want to get shafted by mechanic fees.
 






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