Solved New member - How to remove inner hatch panel?

[Temade]

I am keeping my 2000 XLT, so I am glad to find this forum. Just replaced the striker bolts for the hatch door. Next is replacing the rear wiper motor. Any hints on getting the back panel off? I read that someone bought a motor cheap from Advanced (I think) that has a lifetime warranty. Thanks Temade

 

[Rick]

I believe it would be similar to my '93 Explorer. Remove a few screws around the inner hatch handle and anywhere else you find them... Then the panel itself just pulls away from the door. It's held in with plastic clips. They make a tool to pry with, but you can use a metal scraper to get between the plastic and metal and pry with that. Just be careful with the paint. You could put some tape over the paint where the scraper contacts it.

Welcome to the forum

 

[koda2000]

remove the 2 screws that hold the grab handle on. there should be a single screw under the center cover/plug where the window latch is. then there are push in clips along the upper sides and across the top. a trim tool works best to pop them out. slide the tool along until you encounter each one. once those are free, lift the trim panel upwards, as there are about 8 plastic hooks that hold it to the hatch.

 

[Temade]

Thanks guys. Will give it a go. Sounds like I need to cut plastic too.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks guys. Will give it a go. Sounds like I need to cut plastic too.

wwwhhooa! why do you think you need to cut anything?

 

[Temade]

Just talking about the flexible plastic wrap inside the door.

 

[koda2000]

Just talking about the flexible plastic wrap inside the door.

i didn't need to cut any of mine and i had the entire lift-gate apart. i don't recall if it's held in place with glue, push-in plastic clips or a combination of both, but i know it's not necessary to cut it to get it off. the wiper motor is really easy to remove (just three 8mm bolts). just peel the plastic weather shield back to get at them. be careful not to break the electrical connector or it's mounting tab. the new/reman motor doesn't come with the metal mounting bracket, so don't be to quick to return your core until you have everything off it you need.

 

[Temade]

Thanks! I was going to buy a motor at Advanced Auto Parts. Read that they have a life time warranty and go for $39.00.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks! I was going to buy a motor at Advanced Auto Parts. Read that they have a life time warranty and go for $39.00.

that's a good price. Autozone gets almost $10 more for a reman w/LTW, of course they all match prices.

 

[JCat]

If you need to replace any plastic rivets.........

The plastic rivets sold by Advance Auto Supply and Auto Zone are junk. They break very easily. Brand is DORMAN.

Avoid the DORMAN brand. (Made in China)

 

[Temade]

I am thinking that I should buy a panel puller tool?

 

[koda2000]

I am thinking that I should buy a panel puller tool?

it does make the job easier and it also works well on door panels. they're quite inexpensive. you can get by with a putty knife.

 

[swshawaii]

Great source for OEM quality small parts at a fraction of dealer pricing. Cheap shipping too.

http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Clips_And_Fasteners_s/63.htm

 

[Temade]

Which ones are for the hatch panel? Thanks Temade

 

[swshawaii]

Which ones are for the hatch panel? Thanks Temade

Need to find an OEM part number or remove a sample to match. Any such thing as too much selection? LOL

 

[Temade]

Bought the panel tool and didn't seem to break any clips. How do I get the wiper assembly base from the motor shaft? Also, should I really disconnect the battery first? Thanks Temade

 

[koda2000]

there's no reason why you should have broken any replaceable clips. i'm not sure what you're asking about the wiper motor and base. if you remove the wiper motor mounting bracket from the lift-gate (three 8mm bolts) and turn it over you'll see the bolts that hold the motor to the mounting bracket. the shaft is part of the wiper motor casting. you don't need to remove the black plastic cover on the motor shaft. the replacement motor will come with one on it. you've already removed the wiper arm, right? 13mm nut under the plastic cover at the base of the arm.

oh, no need to disconnect the battery first, but it never hurts to do so. good habit to get into anytime you mess with electrical stuff.

 

[Temade]

Thanks. It was the wiper arm I was asking about. I figured it out after getting that plastic cover off. The bad new is..........it isn't the motor. It must be the switch. It will come on every once in a while, but the Ford dealer told me that's what they do when going out. I had another guy though, tell me that the motor was OK. Back to square one. I hope Advanced will take the motor back. Live and learn though. Temade

 

[koda2000]

Thanks. It was the wiper arm I was asking about. I figured it out after getting that plastic cover off. The bad new is..........it isn't the motor. It must be the switch. It will come on every once in a while, but the Ford dealer told me that's what they do when going out. I had another guy though, tell me that the motor was OK. Back to square one. I hope Advanced will take the motor back. Live and learn though. Temade

i believe i have at least one extra wiper switch if you need one. a bad rear window switch can also stop the wiper from working, as the wiper won't run if it thinks the widow is open. ask me how i know.

 

[Temade]

So what's involved in changing the switch? I feel like the guy asking for a cigarette, then asking for a match. He gets told, "you only brought the habit?" LOL! Temade