new motor, BIG PROBLEMS why won't you run? | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

new motor, BIG PROBLEMS why won't you run?

The computer in a Ford that controls the engine and transmission, it's the one Powertrain Control Module, and some people call it an ECU or ECM. Yes it's married to the PATS module, which is the theft deterrent device.

Each car maker has there own name for the main computer. Long ago a smart person decided it wasn't wise to try to learn each companies' different name for it. PCM is the proper term for the main computer for absolutely every car maker's computer. Thus the Ford, Chevy, Porsche, Fiat, Subaru etc, they all have a PCM, easy for everyone to use.

Most PCM related issues turn out to be other wiring problems, like poor grounds or circuit breaks, or cross connections(insulation). The PCM is very very reliable.

Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!

Yea Don, I hear you. Its unlikely that the PCM is not the problem, but not impossible. I did however retape and inspect all the pins on all the harnesses when i had the motor out. The whole needle in a haystack saying comes to mind here. Before the motor was back in and everything was painted, I did redo all the grounds in the engine bay and on the motor. Scuffing off the paint, SS bolts, De-ox, etc. I had the computer out of the vehicle when i was working on the truck, so about 3 weeks or so. I'm going to look over some of the wiring i suppose.

In doing some more digging on the PCM replacement, it seems that should i go the junkyard route, i would need the PCM, the PATS module, The tranciever around the ignition ring, and the vehicle key all from the same vehicle. Doesn't seem to bad. Before i start diving into the motor I might be doing some junkyarding this week.

Thanks for the help man, i appreciate it. I'm sure i'll get this thing ironed out sooner or later

If you do decide to try the PCM swap, what you'd like to find is a PCM, PATS, and two keys(plus ignition) for a 98-01. That would let you avoid the key programming for now. Without two keys you still would have to get the Ford tool for adding/programming other keys. The transceiver at the ignition is not part of the programming, but I'd get it anyway for the cost. Those parts there at the key ignition are fragile, take your time there.

So the dealership won't touch my truck anymore because its had "internal motor work done" What a JOKE.. So they sent me to another local performance shop. That shop couldn't help me with any of my problems, but they did put me in touch with A guy in tech support for Ford SVT. They guy was really helpful and gave me a lot of insight to my problem. None of it really what i wanted to hear haha.

So First was that the e cam was a mistake in the first place. He recomended a standard HO cam (which i have a brand new one in my garage). He said it will actually give more power without sacrificing any low end torque. He, Ray, believed that the problem is a tuning problem and not a bad pcm, and that I should be running around 900 rpms at idle.

In updating my livewire, i can now adjust the user options for custom tunes *ie james tunes he orig wrote for me. So i turned up the idle and it seems a bit better, Misfire become less noticable. I was also refered to alternative performance for my tuning. They said the same thing about the cam, but are pretty confident they can get some low end back through tuning. So I'm debating on wether i should pull the e cam out and swap the HO cam i have laying around. It's a lot of work, so who knows. That and wether i should have alternative do my tuning. The price is a little steep, but they do really good work and have a really good set up.

The "E" cam can work, but I would worry about the springs, pushrods and rockers being set up right with it. The SVO tech should be able to tell you what springs the cam is supposed to work with, and thus figure out if those you have will work.

Changing the cam almost requires removing the engine, unless you can get the whole radiator, AC condenser and grille out.

um I have a crappy e-cam and they dont cause a missfire, I didnt even adjust the duration of the injectors at lower rpms, so it still has that "chop". Only thing I adjusted at idle was the injector pulsewidth on startup, the 38s were squirting too much fuel when warm.

anything ever come of this?