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New motor or fix what ive got?


Tsestak45

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1998 Ford Ranger XLT
So my 98 Ranger has a severe oil leak right into my sparkplug well. It's causing me to.miafire on 2 cylinders and despite trying everything there is no way to solve it. So now I'm faced with the options of: 1. Buy a new motor and pay someome to install it, or 2. Take the motor apart myself and try to stop the leak. I'm mechanically inclined but have never done something this big on my own. Any suggestions or recommemdations?
 


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RangerX

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It would help if we knew which engine you have, 2.3, 3.0, 4.0 ohv, or 4.0 sohc.
 




SideStep

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I can tell you the 4.0 SOHC is not cheap to rebuild. It's a complicated motor with a timing chain at the right rear of the engine. I'm assuming you have changed the valve cover gasket.
 




410Fortune

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the 98 ranger never had the SOHC only 4 banger, 3.0 v6 and OHV 4.0 pushrod. 2000 was the first year of the SOHC in the Ranger

Your oil leak is likely valve covers since it is above the spark plugs
Valve cover gaskets on a ohv are not terrible
Good time to replace upper intake gaskets as well

Other oil leak spots on the 4.0 to look for the oil filter adapter mount on pass rear of engine, the dipstick tube on drivers side, and the oil pressure sensor on the front drivers side

I would NEVER replace an engine due to an oil leak. Sometimes you have to pull and engine to re seal it, or replace oil pan gasket....but most other gaskets can be done in the ranger
 




Tsestak45

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1998 Ford Ranger XLT
I can tell you the 4.0 SOHC is not cheap to rebuild. It's a complicated motor with a timing chain at the right rear of the engine. I'm assuming you have changed the valve cover gasket.
the 98 ranger never had the SOHC only 4 banger, 3.0 v6 and OHV 4.0 pushrod. 2000 was the first year of the SOHC in the Ranger

Your oil leak is likely valve covers since it is above the spark plugs
Valve cover gaskets on a ohv are not terrible
Good time to replace upper intake gaskets as well

Other oil leak spots on the 4.0 to look for the oil filter adapter mount on pass rear of engine, the dipstick tube on drivers side, and the oil pressure sensor on the front drivers side

I would NEVER replace an engine due to an oil leak. Sometimes you have to pull and engine to re seal it, or replace oil pan gasket....but most other gaskets can be done in the ranger
Now you memtion a few other places to be checking. As someone who hasn't done that much work on vehicles I was ready and talked myself into doing the valve gasket but with the other like 4 spots you mentioned is it worth my time (because it will probably take me 2-3 times longer then a mechanic) to do everyone of those to ensure no leaking vs buying a new motor that I know wont leak? Its also my work truck so I cant have it out of commission for long periods of time. How long do you think doing all the above mentioned fixes would take?



the 98 ranger never had the SOHC only 4 banger, 3.0 v6 and OHV 4.0 pushrod. 2000 was the first year of the SOHC in the Ranger

Your oil leak is likely valve covers since it is above the spark plugs
Valve cover gaskets on a ohv are not terrible
Good time to replace upper intake gaskets as well

Other oil leak spots on the 4.0 to look for the oil filter adapter mount on pass rear of engine, the dipstick tube on drivers side, and the oil pressure sensor on the front drivers side

I would NEVER replace an engine due to an oil leak. Sometimes you have to pull and engine to re seal it, or replace oil pan gasket....but most other gaskets can be done in the ranger
Ok so now here's my question. The​
 




410Fortune

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valve cover gaskets and intake plenum gasket, new EGR O ring - plan one day for your first time. Me about 2-4 hours because I have done that service 100+ times. I usually bench test the fuel injectors and re seal the fuel rail and injector O rings while the intake is off also.

OIl filter adapter can be tricky, sometimes you have to loosen the exhaust Y pipe to get access.
There are 3 O rings in there, plan a few hours

Dipstick tube, 20 minutes to an hour or so the hold down bolt can be tricky because it is mounted with the exhaust stud
O ring deteriorates, can be sealed up with new o ring and silicon

Oil pressure sensor R&R takes minutes with the correct tools, access is from in front of drivers front tire through wheel well, use long extensions and flashlight to remove sensor, clean up the engine block side of things, clean the threads and install new thread sealant, liquid thread sealant (basically liquid teflon) is what I use. re install, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the oil pressure sensor is beveled and if you go to far you can crack your 4.0 engine block ask me how I know

With oil leaks first clean the area so you can monitor them, no need to fix something that is not there
A good power wash engine bay and under carriage is the best place to start followed by a visual inspection over the next few drive cycles with a flashlight and rag........ leaks always come from the highest spot, so follow the moisture upward.
The engine fan will blow many fluids rearward.
Fluid always collects and drips from the lowest point

No need to take the truck down for more then a solid day to start attacking these leaks
You can do it! Watch some videos for the upper intake injector re seal I am sure there are plenty out there these days...
 




Okie2

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I wonder how his new engine worked out :)
 




donalds

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Don't you hate it when people don't update threads
 




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