Completed Project - New Navajo Truggy build | Page 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Completed Project New Navajo Truggy build

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Started by cutting just under the lip of the door
What a pain in the ass this was. There is about 3 or 4 different layers of sheet metal through our this area.

not what i was hoping to hear. ill be cutting mine soon. our sliders will be alot alike, you read me mind on what i wanted to do with mine lol
 






not what i was hoping to hear. ill be cutting mine soon. our sliders will be alot alike, you read me mind on what i wanted to do with mine lol


The initial cut was done with a die grinder and cutting disc. I peeled back the sheet metal then cut the next with a plasma, peeled that back then cut the rest with a combination of plasma and sawsall. If that helps.
 






vote for one of the greatest fab threads on this site! SICK welding skills!

subscribed :salute:
 






I'm not sure how well this would work for your rig. But there was a mod people were doing some years ago. On top of the stock leaf stack you would add the top leaf from a Ranger leaf set. Then cut the eyes off the original top leaf. It was supposed to allow for a softer ride, to a point. Never did it so I can't vouch for it. I think it was called The Zimmerman mod. Look it up.
 






Air Shocks

Has anyone used air shocks on their SAS'd explorer? I'm not really happy with the front coils on the navajo. Way too soft. Scary soft. I've been looking at Sway A Way 2.5 air shocks. Anyone have any advice on these? Only thing I've heard is that they are used best on lighter crawlers. The Navajo is pretty light now. And I plan on going fiberglass front end so it will be even lighter.

Its either air shocks or coil overs, they are just so dammed expensive.
I'm probably going to move the front coils to the rear and run a similar radius arm set up.
 






if your worried about being soft you should stay away from the air shocks. they can be extremely soft. which is the reason why most of the guys that run on the street go to coilovers.

your weight range is fine for airshocks but you would probably need some kind of sway bar for the street if the leafs feel soft.
 












Have you thought about just getting some good quality rebuildable/valvable shocks under the front? You want soft springs for crawling so it can flex easily, but a well-valved shock will do wonders in controlling how quickly the suspension will compress and rebound. You can find some good deals on used King/Fox/Swayaway/Bilstein/Radflo/etc. shocks and they are easy to rebuild and valve to exactly what you want. That's the route I would go if it were my truck.
 






Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.
 






Cage, 1st try

Started on the cage.
Tacked the fenders in place for inspiration

IMG_1063.jpg



IMG_1066.jpg



IMG_1067.jpg



IMG_1068.jpg



IMG_1069.jpg



IMG_1070.jpg



IMG_1073.jpg



IMG_1074.jpg



After all this work I ended up scrapping the rear section. Good thing it was only tacked.
 






Cage 2nd attempt.

I'm ditching the Navajo fenders and going to make my own. Will run LED's for brake lights.
I want to make the rear pure buggy.

IMG_1094.jpg



IMG_1095.jpg



IMG_1096.jpg



IMG_1097.jpg



IMG_1098.jpg



IMG_1099.jpg


IMG_1100.jpg


IMG_1101.jpg


IMG_1102.jpg


IMG_1103.jpg



The rear will be able to carry a 38" tire vertically right behind the gas tank.
I will probably make a tool box in between the tire and cab.

IMG_1104.jpg


IMG_1105.jpg


IMG_1106.jpg


Still have a lot of tubing still to fab for the rear.
 






Really Crazy Cool!!!!!
 






coolstuff!
 






Thanks for the great info guys. Wasn't aware that air shocks are also soft. I think if I get a sway bar it will help a lot.
Something I just thought of. Does it matter which end is up on a typical shock? I'm running nitrogen procomp shocks with the body up. Could that cause the softness? It almost feels like the shocks aren't doing anything.

Yes, it does matter if they are upside down
 






looks like a killer job so far the only prob i see with your plan is how do you plan to remove a 38" tirer plus rim vertically ?

would it not be easier if the back bars were hinged at one end to make life a little easier for spare removal

just my .02
 






looks like a killer job so far the only prob i see with your plan is how do you plan to remove a 38" tirer plus rim vertically ?

would it not be easier if the back bars were hinged at one end to make life a little easier for spare removal

just my .02

Good point. These bead Locked swampers are not light. I'm still deciding on spare mount location. I made a mock up spare last night out of ply wood. I'll do some trial fitment and see where the best location is. Remember there still needs to be room for my ice chest and tool box.

If I need to get to the spare I hope I have some buddies with me.
 






Yeah ice chest, gotta stay hydrated!!
 






Wow just wow this is some of the best fab work I've seen in a long time keep it up and post more pictures lol.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Cage design. 3rd attempt

I wasn't happy with the way the last cage was going so I scrapped it.

I ended up removing the rear shock hoop, moving the gas tank forward 5 inches and cutting the rear of the frame and 3" pipe cross member.

If you remember originally I bobbed the frame and wrapped it around some sch 40 3" pipe.
IMG_0558-1.jpg


Once I moved the gas tank forward I cut the rear of the frame as close to the shackle as possible. I then wrapped it in plate steel
IMG_1131.jpg



IMG_1132.jpg



IMG_1133.jpg
 






Back
Top